Provided that there is enough code space the battery voltage could be checked periodically (using a counter) rather than every time. Approximately once per hour might be sane to allow for ~15min of recovery. To get totally unnecessarily complicated you could do one check ~15min after the MCU goes to sleep using the counter and then set a flag and start doing the check ~daily until the light was turned on again, resetting the flag. Wow that’s a bunch of extra stuff for little benefit though…
I removed all the resistors on the stock driver second version. And I also added copper braid to the steel spring. This F6 heats up fast now. Gets very hot after just 15 seconds of running on high. I’m still using the stock XM-L2 led. The light definitely has greater output now but I have no way of measuring how much.
The stock LED is on a cheap aluminum MCPCB, be careful. You've got a direct drive light with the LED not on copper. Risky.
Thanks for the advice. I will get an xml2 noctigon to install. The led remains much brighter than stock for about 1 min and then starts to really dim as the light gets very hot.
Nice!
Nice indeed! Thank you. Now I just have to figure out which light to use this in.... (Dont own this particular light)
Roche X3 should use the same driver (scroll down for the 'user pics') http://www.banggood.com/ROCHER-X3-CREE-L2-800-Lumen-White-Light-LED-Flashlight-p-916697.html
I don't think it has a window/lens for the status LEDs, but that can be added without huge drama.
What about using clear fingernail polish or Norland that both cure with UV light and would be very clear?
It would probably work best with slightly diffused plastic, not perfectly clear. I'm sure there is something in the hobby world that would be exactly right.
If the right kind of plastic rod around the right size can't be found, an alternative would be something like clear Epoxy 330, sanded on the inside face to act as a diffuser.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360884112895
Available in other sizes/styles (end glow = has an outer cover, side glow = nekkid along the whole length).
Hmm… that might be useful for a totally different project I have in mind… Either that or electroluminescent wire. I still haven’t figured out how to make the thing though; I want it to light up at least a dozen wires quickly in a rotating sequence.
How far is the the software for using the voltage indicator LEDs?
I got a yezl y3 today and the eswitch boot looks semitransparent so I thought that it might be cool to use a extra indicator led?
I don’t have firmware working for the voltage indicator LEDs since I have no hardware to test on. My only flashable e-switch light is a SRK.
The Yezl Y3 might be a good host for this too, after adding the extra LEDs inside. I don’t have one of those, but have sometimes been tempted to get one or a HD2010 to mod as a thrower.
Where can I order this driver?
Now I tried to improvise something with Nanjg 105c and STAR Firmware by JonnyC but it took me too much room there and I can’t close the torch well.
I need a driver with a short press for on/off
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/KmRivSTO
http://www.digikey.com/short/77p2bz
I don't think anyone has done a dedicated direct on/off momentary firmware yet; Tom E came up with a hybrid of sorts that works like the normal short press/long press UI until the timer hits 15 seconds, then after that a short press turns off (or something like that). It's in the STAR firmware thread somewhere.
Thanks comfychair!
I’ve ordered the board but I have the problem with “digikey” (Ship Rate: $120.00 for my country) 
:~
Can you give me other place where to order the electronic parts?
No idea, but you can use that list to find equivalent parts from somewhere in EU. They don't have to be identical (except the attiny & AOD510), any SOD-323 Schottky diode will work, any 0805 10% X7R 10-25v ceramic cap will work, any 0805 1% resistors will work, etc.
You can also get everything but the FET, switch, indicator LEDs/resistors from a donor Nanjg 105C. The indicator LEDs are completely optional, it works just fine with the standard code whether they're present or not.
I believe, though I haven't tried it, that Helios designed the switch pads to also work with the stock switch from the stock F6 driver, if you want to reuse it instead of buying a new one.
My new BLF dd_PIC drivers UI allows short press for on/short press again for off.
I could easily mod Heloi’s design to accept the needed PIC MCU (and remove the unneeded voltage divider resistors) if you’re interested in that.
You can see a video of the bad ass UI and read about the standard 17dd and 15dd in the thread here. I am out of town this weekend but if he will send me the files I can have a direct fit driver for the F6 ready to order as soon as Monday. If I have to start from scratch it will be a bit longer.
I could also build the driver for you, test and ship it to you for about $25 USD.
Edit: really wish someone would atleast try one of these (and like I said if I could get any takers I’d be happy to make one direct fit for the F6 or anything else), I put a lot of time/work into designing, building and testing these things. Someone please start using them. The FW is much much more advanced that any modded version of STAR (but still extremely simple to operate). It’s disappointing no one’s even ordered a set yet…
I’m not even pushing for someone to buy one from me, this is a dedicated open source project, just please someone install one in something!