It would probably work best with slightly diffused plastic, not perfectly clear. I'm sure there is something in the hobby world that would be exactly right.
If the right kind of plastic rod around the right size can't be found, an alternative would be something like clear Epoxy 330, sanded on the inside face to act as a diffuser.
Hmm… that might be useful for a totally different project I have in mind… Either that or electroluminescent wire. I still haven’t figured out how to make the thing though; I want it to light up at least a dozen wires quickly in a rotating sequence.
I don’t have firmware working for the voltage indicator LEDs since I have no hardware to test on. My only flashable e-switch light is a SRK.
The Yezl Y3 might be a good host for this too, after adding the extra LEDs inside. I don’t have one of those, but have sometimes been tempted to get one or a HD2010 to mod as a thrower.
Where can I order this driver?
Now I tried to improvise something with Nanjg 105c and STAR Firmware by JonnyC but it took me too much room there and I can’t close the torch well.
I need a driver with a short press for on/off
I don't think anyone has done a dedicated direct on/off momentary firmware yet; Tom E came up with a hybrid of sorts that works like the normal short press/long press UI until the timer hits 15 seconds, then after that a short press turns off (or something like that). It's in the STAR firmware thread somewhere.
Thanks comfychair!
I’ve ordered the board but I have the problem with “digikey” (Ship Rate: $120.00 for my country) :~
Can you give me other place where to order the electronic parts?
No idea, but you can use that list to find equivalent parts from somewhere in EU. They don't have to be identical (except the attiny & AOD510), any SOD-323 Schottky diode will work, any 0805 10% X7R 10-25v ceramic cap will work, any 0805 1% resistors will work, etc.
You can also get everything but the FET, switch, indicator LEDs/resistors from a donor Nanjg 105C. The indicator LEDs are completely optional, it works just fine with the standard code whether they're present or not.
I believe, though I haven't tried it, that Helios designed the switch pads to also work with the stock switch from the stock F6 driver, if you want to reuse it instead of buying a new one.
My new BLF dd_PIC drivers UI allows short press for on/short press again for off.
I could easily mod Heloi’s design to accept the needed PIC MCU (and remove the unneeded voltage divider resistors) if you’re interested in that.
You can see a video of the bad ass UI and read about the standard 17dd and 15dd in the thread here. I am out of town this weekend but if he will send me the files I can have a direct fit driver for the F6 ready to order as soon as Monday. If I have to start from scratch it will be a bit longer.
I could also build the driver for you, test and ship it to you for about $25 USD.
Edit: really wish someone would atleast try one of these (and like I said if I could get any takers I’d be happy to make one direct fit for the F6 or anything else), I put a lot of time/work into designing, building and testing these things. Someone please start using them. The FW is much much more advanced that any modded version of STAR (but still extremely simple to operate). It’s disappointing no one’s even ordered a set yet…
I’m not even pushing for someone to buy one from me, this is a dedicated open source project, just please someone install one in something!
@Cereal_killer
I’ve already started to build the Heloi’s version, but your firmware is much better and I will buy one from you. I will contact you on PM because I can’t do it by myself.
Wow, well... it would probably function, but output would suck. Gate threshold voltage is low enough & total gate charge is OK at the voltages the driver will see, but it's a 16 year old design and the on-resistance is sky high. 0.024 ohms, vs 0.0042 for Vishay 70N02 and 0.0032 for AOD510.
FWIW, I’ve got voltage detection and readout working on my Skyray King, and although I still need to do a lot of measurement to determine exact values, I think the code should also translate pretty well to the custom Roche F6 driver.
Haha, a 7* tint? That would almost certainly make my eyes hurt. Traditional 100-CRI incandescent bulbs are painful for me because the tint is so warm. I know some people are really fond of that color of light, but not me. If I try to read under incan, it only takes a few minutes before my eyes start rapidly inverting the colors until everything is grey and I can only see contrast lines at the edges of things. Sort of like this:
Yeah it's an outdoor-only tint, at least to me. Indoors it's pretty icky.
The ambient lighting you spend the most time in has an effect on how you perceive it too. I live in a cool white world... ~2900K is a long way off from what my eyes have adapted to and consider 'normal'.
edit: The 7C4 would be really good combined with a 4C & 2B.
When I was little and living with my parents, all the lights were ~2700K incandescents. I basically couldn’t see clearly indoors at night because the tint made my eyes bug out. It wasn’t until I bought myself a fluorescent fixture for my room that I was able to read comfortably at night.
It also occurs to me, just now, that this probably explains a common theme from my dreams at the time. I’d often be trying to see something but the light was too dim and no amount of fiddling with the light switches would fix the situation. Only recently did that change; these days I’m so used to having a light with me that even in dreams I can generally illuminate anything I want.