Roche F6 hacking

Hmm… that might be useful for a totally different project I have in mind… Either that or electroluminescent wire. I still haven’t figured out how to make the thing though; I want it to light up at least a dozen wires quickly in a rotating sequence.

How far is the the software for using the voltage indicator LEDs?

I got a yezl y3 today and the eswitch boot looks semitransparent so I thought that it might be cool to use a extra indicator led?

I don’t have firmware working for the voltage indicator LEDs since I have no hardware to test on. My only flashable e-switch light is a SRK.

The Yezl Y3 might be a good host for this too, after adding the extra LEDs inside. I don’t have one of those, but have sometimes been tempted to get one or a HD2010 to mod as a thrower.

Where can I order this driver?
Now I tried to improvise something with Nanjg 105c and STAR Firmware by JonnyC but it took me too much room there and I can’t close the torch well.
I need a driver with a short press for on/off

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/KmRivSTO

http://www.digikey.com/short/77p2bz

I don't think anyone has done a dedicated direct on/off momentary firmware yet; Tom E came up with a hybrid of sorts that works like the normal short press/long press UI until the timer hits 15 seconds, then after that a short press turns off (or something like that). It's in the STAR firmware thread somewhere.

Thanks comfychair!
I’ve ordered the board but I have the problem with “digikey” (Ship Rate: $120.00 for my country) :frowning: :~
Can you give me other place where to order the electronic parts?

No idea, but you can use that list to find equivalent parts from somewhere in EU. They don't have to be identical (except the attiny & AOD510), any SOD-323 Schottky diode will work, any 0805 10% X7R 10-25v ceramic cap will work, any 0805 1% resistors will work, etc.

You can also get everything but the FET, switch, indicator LEDs/resistors from a donor Nanjg 105C. The indicator LEDs are completely optional, it works just fine with the standard code whether they're present or not.

I believe, though I haven't tried it, that Helios designed the switch pads to also work with the stock switch from the stock F6 driver, if you want to reuse it instead of buying a new one.

My new BLF dd_PIC drivers UI allows short press for on/short press again for off.

I could easily mod Heloi’s design to accept the needed PIC MCU (and remove the unneeded voltage divider resistors) if you’re interested in that.

You can see a video of the bad ass UI and read about the standard 17dd and 15dd in the thread here. I am out of town this weekend but if he will send me the files I can have a direct fit driver for the F6 ready to order as soon as Monday. If I have to start from scratch it will be a bit longer.

I could also build the driver for you, test and ship it to you for about $25 USD.

Edit: really wish someone would atleast try one of these (and like I said if I could get any takers I’d be happy to make one direct fit for the F6 or anything else), I put a lot of time/work into designing, building and testing these things. Someone please start using them. The FW is much much more advanced that any modded version of STAR (but still extremely simple to operate). It’s disappointing no one’s even ordered a set yet… :frowning:

I’m not even pushing for someone to buy one from me, this is a dedicated open source project, just please someone install one in something!

@Cereal_killer
I’ve already started to build the Heloi’s version, but your firmware is much better and I will buy one from you. I will contact you on PM because I can’t do it by myself.

@comfychair
Thanks!
I wanted to use the stock switch and the other parts from one Nanjg 105C, but can I use this FET:
http://kelco.rs/katalog/komponente.php?q=IRLR3103

Wow, well... it would probably function, but output would suck. Gate threshold voltage is low enough & total gate charge is OK at the voltages the driver will see, but it's a 16 year old design and the on-resistance is sky high. 0.024 ohms, vs 0.0042 for Vishay 70N02 and 0.0032 for AOD510.

FWIW, I’ve got voltage detection and readout working on my Skyray King, and although I still need to do a lot of measurement to determine exact values, I think the code should also translate pretty well to the custom Roche F6 driver.

I can confirm the Roche X3 uses the exact same driver format. Plus, it uses a standard 42x31 C8 reflector, so... side switch C8!

I built one with these...

...and every time I switch it on, my first thought is "so this is what 1928 was like." :hat:

It's surprisingly nice outdoors ("90+ CRI"). Indoors, eh... not so much. :sick:

Whaoh…nice!

Haha, a 7* tint? That would almost certainly make my eyes hurt. Traditional 100-CRI incandescent bulbs are painful for me because the tint is so warm. I know some people are really fond of that color of light, but not me. If I try to read under incan, it only takes a few minutes before my eyes start rapidly inverting the colors until everything is grey and I can only see contrast lines at the edges of things. Sort of like this:

Yeah it's an outdoor-only tint, at least to me. Indoors it's pretty icky.

The ambient lighting you spend the most time in has an effect on how you perceive it too. I live in a cool white world... ~2900K is a long way off from what my eyes have adapted to and consider 'normal'.

edit: The 7C4 would be really good combined with a 4C & 2B.

When I was little and living with my parents, all the lights were ~2700K incandescents. I basically couldn’t see clearly indoors at night because the tint made my eyes bug out. It wasn’t until I bought myself a fluorescent fixture for my room that I was able to read comfortably at night.

It also occurs to me, just now, that this probably explains a common theme from my dreams at the time. I’d often be trying to see something but the light was too dim and no amount of fiddling with the light switches would fix the situation. Only recently did that change; these days I’m so used to having a light with me that even in dreams I can generally illuminate anything I want.

I’ll agree with the indoor outdoor statement. I trial ran this tint in an s6 for a while and actually became fond of it. Just bought another bare emitter to fit into something else (I’m short on hosts at the moment). The original found it’s way into my s2 triple. 2B, 5A1, 7C4. At times it’s almost a bit cool for my taste. Probably coming in around 4700K. It’s very nice and I rotate it and my 5B1 XML2 S6 as my EDC.

After looking up a couple things in the attiny reference manual and calibrating some voltage values a bit better, I have red+green indicators working in a Roche F6. It’s only a first pass, but this means the “hard” parts are done and now I can play with the interface. :slight_smile:

Currently it’s running my SRK code, plus red/green voltage indicators. So, six levels plus “off” with hold-until-desired-level to ramp up and repeated clicking to step down. There’s a semi-hidden battery check mode if you click quickly through all modes and back to off (or ramp up to the first and immediately click to turn it off), which blinks out the following voltage ranges:

  • 0 blinks: < 3.0V (red, and the light will auto step-down)
  • 1 blink: 3.0-3.4V (red)
  • 2 blinks: 3.4-3.7V (yellow)
  • 3 blinks: 3.7-4.0V (green)
  • 4 blinks: 4.0-4.2V (green)
  • 5 blinks: > 4.2V (green)

Oh, and when it’s right at the boundary between two colors, it’ll flicker between them. This is a side effect of the attiny getting slightly different values at each measurement. It seems like a happy side effect though.

I think it works pretty well, but I still have some other interfaces to write for e-switch lights with red/green aux indicators.