That reflector is deep. It looks like the mcpcb is mounted on the back wall. Electronic switch. You further confirmed anodized threads. If that's a 17mm driver, then we FINALLY have a really nice and cheap headlight host.
no, 15mm driver, no detectable PWM on low (modes are high-low-strobe-SOS *sigh*), ledboard indeed sits on the back wall. Going to get the reflector out one way or another these days, it remains to be seen if that can be done without destroying things.. now really off to bed...
Thanks djozz, those are very good pics...at least we can see its guts... How can you turn it off? Only through all the modes?
Thanks for the report, looks pretty good so far
I really like the looks of that. If the strobe/SOS can be bypassed, even if just cycling it on and off, I will definitely be picking one up.
Ordered 2 about 5 days ago and got an email 2 days ago saying they were out of stock and didn’t know when they would be back in stock.
Seems to be almost identical to GSX 85 Lumen Angle-Head Tactical LED Headlamp reviewed at CPF.
And this one Cree Flexi CREE LED Right Angle Flashlight on Amazon, please see reviews there.
What is parasitic drain ?
The GSX is said in the review to have a terrible pwm on low, while I can not detect any in this one.
The parasitic drain I just measured at 60 micro-ampere
How about overheating mentioned on amazon ? (link to review)
BTW. Is there a formula to translate CPF rating to BLF one ? 
I do not see how a light can overheat on a single alkaline/NiMh battery: the driver struggles to boost the voltage and the output will not easy get over 100 lumen. The light will not be hotter than luke-warm and to kill the led it must have no heatsinking at all.
I really tried to get the reflector/ledboard out now and did not succeed. Either it requires so much brute force and heating up that destroying the light is likely, or I missed something on how the light is constructed. Is someone else more skilled/lucky?
I measured tail current on a mostly full Duracel (actually the one that came with the light): 1.35A, after boosting I guess there is not more than 300mA leftover for the led. The output on high is about 80 lumen, on low 13 lumen. On an Eneloop the tail current is 1.4A on high, 180mA on low, output is 90 lumen on high, 12.5 on low. (It suggests pwm after all, the efficiency on low is not much better than on high, but this statement is not backed up by any decent calculation).
I doubt that amazon guy made up that story, he stated that it worked again after it cooled down, so it sounds to be about the heat, maybe just cold solder joint… (no word there about killing the LED).
Regarding LED current, I have seen 350mA mentioned somewhere, but I do not remember where…
Perhaps something was wrong with his copy. I just ran the light for half an hour on an Eneloop XXXX, the flashlight hardly warmed up, after that the output had gone down from 90 to 76 lumen. I let it cool down for 8 minutes, then switched it on and got 79 lumen. Nothing drastic going on with temperature in my copy.
Thanks Djozz for all the pics and info...
Pity, as I hoped it to be a bit easier to replace the Led..
Well, it did not break yet...
But it sure looks like it could break at some point, it is plastic and it is used to clamp something, not the most robust solution I can think of. But then, it could just work fine for years..
That one will probably be too wide, I think a simple one like this will work fine for this small light:
Thanks djozz.
So — easy to get the driver and switch out (and so to mod them and get them back in?)
Waiting and hoping on the LED result; as the reflector is deep — WOW, from your picture, the reflector goes all the way to the back side of the head with the LED at the back wall?!
Could all that space be used for a slug of copper, to raise and heatsink a better, floody emitter?
Heck, I’d be happy without a reflector, full flood — tho’ I wonder if a little aspheric could be found and positioned in place of the lens, or a Carclo-type optic. Are there threads at the reflector socket or just press fit?
Very tempting already. One ordered.
(I’ve got a couple of Z1s, a Z2, and a Moon M6 — none reasonably moddable, plus the one I destroyed trying and passed on)
Mine showed up and it also has a glued in reflector, also a big halo around the hot spot, this needs some kind of a diffuser or something to blend the lights together, has a pretty cheezy headband holder and a narrow headband,but for the price it’ll make a ok light for working on the car, oh yah one more thing, the battery tube is really thin