2D is now Modded - Video Review and Tear Down of the 3rd GEN Maglite Flashlights - Beam Shots and Amp Draws are up

Current goes up even for the 3 cell? That's interesting. Should mean it's able to fully drain a set of alkalines while maintaining maximum possible output all the way to the end.

I wonder if the 2 cell & 3 cell drivers are actually the same? Can you try 2 cells in the 3 cell light, and 3 in the 2 cell light?

As for why you don't understand how it works, I think that's normal as long as you try to work it out without converting your tailcap (input) numbers into watts. Do that and it makes it easy to make a meaningful comparison between two lights, no matter what they're powered by. Volts x amps = watts. 4 volts at 3 amps is exactly the same as 3 volts at 4 amps, even though the number/type of cells used to get there could be totally unrelated. By converting to watts it clears away a bunch of stuff that just adds confusion.

Oh snap! Maglite stepping up to the plate…BIG TIME!

Running XM-L/L2 correct? (Can’t watch the video’s yet)

Wonder if a descent buck driver could be build in the space of the “stock” driver but with modes like that…not on the ATtiny13 or even 25, maybe the 85 or on the PIC

Wicked cool OL…thanks!

I would think some conformal coating (nail polish or clear spraypaint) overt the components (not on the contact pads for the switch) would definitely help “weather proof” it even though maglites are pretty darn waterproof to begin with

I just got the 3 cell apart. The driver is totally different. I will take photos when I can, but it’s the same size, with totally different components and circuits.

Should image the 3D is a buck driver whereas the 2D a boost.

D cell’s might have a lot of capacity, but the 2D is just like running a 2xAA light in many respects.

Photo of the 3D driver, now in the OP

Thanks OL for the teardown. I’m disappointed with the heatsink design: Knurling on both heatsink and tube, :Sp I’m pretty sure no knurling would have been cheaper.

The knurling may allow for slightly larger tolerances in the base tube keeping things to a reasonable cost but at the same time doing enough to get rid of whatever heat is generated.

Yeah, Im sure that added at least $15-20 to the total cost for the millisecond long CNC operation. :smiley:

Thanks for the great tear-down on both lights OL. Lets hope these appear in the Lowes mega-discount annual maglite sale. Im sure Costco will probably be another contender around Christmas. Its great to finally see mag step up and deliver a decent stock light.

Based on materials used in other Mags I'm going to guess that tower-cup thing is actually plated brass.

+1. I think that about nails it.

I think it’s some type of plated tin of plated sheet metal. At least that’s what my file tells me, when I filed on a part of it to see.

I’m curios, can you check if the heatsink is ferrous or non-ferrous?

The forum is so lucky to have members of this caliber, they get a brand new flashlight and the first thing they is rip it apart, and take the time to make a video, so everybody here can see what makes it tick.

Thanks again Old-Lumens.

Hahaha clown! :stuck_out_tongue: I was referring to manufacturing cost. We all know how big manufacturers like to save every cent.

:smiley: Im just giving you a hard time. lol

non-ferrous, at least a magnet will not stick to it, so probably.

2D Mod

I just took off the R050 resistor on the board and didn't have what I wanted, but I put back two R056 together. It now pulls 3.4 amps with two Alkalines! I am in the process of making two of the 3xAA holders into a 6xAA 2S/3P and I will see how that goes. The 2D is now very bright!

I also added some mass to the heat sink. If you look at the pill that holds the led, you see there's sort of a cup there. I filled that with copper shot and solder. It adds some mass at least. About quadrupled the weight and it should help with heat for a little while.

Might not be any real visual difference, but here's a couple of mouse overs. Mouse OUT is the Stock 2D. Mouse OVER is the mod.

O-L always lookin’ for the next level.

Nice mod.

Has anyone deciphered what we need to do to mod the modes?

Thanks for great work in showing detailed tear down and more…

I have a question about the 2D driver. Can you measure any current draw at the tail with the switch in the off position?

Some electronic switches will have a very slight current draw even in the off position and slowly drain batteries unless you loosen the tail cap, etc…

I don’t have any of the stock lights any more, so I can’t tell you. Maybe someone else has one.