TY-08 is driven at a similar level, but has smaller reflector.
L4 & X3, same story, but smaller again.
HD2010 - If you scored the good driver & used good cells, it may be close between them.
Well you can just put in an XP-G2 on a noctigon and get really good throw out of it. It takes a bit to get it to focus correctly but it’s not too hard. Cereal Killer has a driver that will rock it out if you want to put your XM-L2 on a noctigon.
I tried to mod the driver on it but I didn’t have any luck doing that so I swapped mine out, I have done a few of them now and they are really nice.
The disease is getting worse. I thought I could hold out for the BLF Edition GB light. But, in a moment of weakness, I bought this light. You guys talked me into it! That’s my excuse when the wife asks! Anyway, I’ve just made my first purchase from GB. I paid the $1.99 extra for tracking, as per the advice given in another thread. :bigsmile:
I thought Courui releases another new thrower by reading the title… this is actually the one some of us have bought previously, but not at the price as good as this of course. Thanks tatasal for bringing this deal up.
Driver
The simplest way to bump up the current of this light is by removing the R120 resistor and bridge across it. This way it gives you near direct drive on high mode. But I have an issue by bridging the resistor, when the light is turned off the LED still glow dimly. I used a crappy soldering iron to do this and I suspect the driver was damaged so do it with care and good soldering iron guys.
LED
Since there is 26mm Maxtoch DTP board available it is advisable to use them so that the soldering joint won’t interfere with the big flat reflector bottom. I used 20mm Noctigon back then and it is a pain to make the solder joint really flat, and still not ideal.
Noctigon and Maxtoch boards are thinner than the stock aluminium board, so you should add additional copper sheet under the DTP board to increase its thickness, otherwise the reflector will be too loose inside and cannot be screwed down tight later. If you don’t want to reflow additiong copper sheet underneath, the alternative way is by unscrewing the pill by a few turns to raise the position of the LED, but this will leave questionable heat transitiveness to the flashlight body, not sure about this and it’s up to you. You may add copper sheet under the pill to solve this though.
Lockout
Since it is electronic switch some people may want to find a way to make it able to lockout. It is doable with janko.hrasko’s method .
Since I wasn’t familiar with this light before I have spent a lot of time trying things and kind of mess the light up. I have lost interest in it already and I might want to let it go to somebody else.
I liked my first one so much, I immediately bought a second! The size and overall shape just fits the hand nicely, and with 3 18650’s the run time is superior with less sag when hot rodding. And, uh, well, they’re both hot rodded.
The e-switch is great with a reversing UI in a FET driver. This lets you go directly to Turbo or moon, as you wish. Love that!
I’ve got one with an XM-L2 de-domed and working far better than my 2 HD2010’s (369.25Kcd with an UCLp lens), the other has an MT-G2 utilizing 6 Efest Purple 18350’s. I limited that one to 3000 lumens in the firmware as it was wanting to make over 4000 at 100% and making more heat than I wanted in this light. I wasn’t feeling up to making a copper heat sink for it, so I used an ounce of silver instead. Works all right, would have preferred the copper with more mass.
I highly recommend this light. These immediately became personal favorites. :bigsmile: