What blade did you EDC today?

Remember you can put 100 in the line under the entry for the image link and itā€™ll ensure the picture stays within the bounds of the page.

That is a very cool knife.

Is that a ball bearing lock, or is it a quasi-slip joint?

Itā€™s a ball lock. One of the reasons I bought it was because I didnā€™t have any ball locks in my collectionā€¦and I love white micarta.

Dale started it. :wink:

I always process my images to less than 600px wide and less than 100k in size, my photobucket has thougands of images and itā€™s still only 2% fullā€™ Iā€™ve been using it for years. :wink:

And the Phoenix is a very good looking knife, Iā€™d be tempted to save it for ā€œgoing out bestā€ occasions, I couldnā€™t bring myself to EDC it and use the hell out of it, thereā€™s other knives for that.

That ā€œbudgetā€ sebenza is a bit of all-right too.

Yes they are!

Dale, the more I see your Sebenza the more I seriously consider selling mine to get the CF insert version, I like the look of the Ti behind the insert (but could never totally give up CF). If mine wasnā€™t a dealer exclusive I would definitely do that. But theyā€™re not the easiest to get, had to watch for mine I have, if I ever wanted to go back I probably wouldnā€™t be able to. Maybe Iā€™ll just gather up all my other knives.ā€¢, sell them and just have two sebbiā€™s.

Tri-Ad lock & wave :crown:

Love the CS talwar, just never had enough money to afford one.


Supposed to be Sandvik 12C27 steel.

The lowly Gerber EAB loaded with the kick arse "Scalloped Utility Blade"

love this set up

Iā€™ll be honest & it may get a bit off backlash. I wasnā€™t impressed with the Sebenza, a Nice knife? Sureā€¦ Worth the price ? H*LL NOā€¦

Iā€™ll second the Hattori, although I carry the original rather than the junglee.


XHP Recon 1 tanto

Who made the original? It was my understanding the Original was from Seki Japan & they have copies made in Taiwan or something.

Ichiro Hattori of Japan made the original series. He started out in 1954 at Masohiro in Japan making knives for export to Tekna. In 1971 he opened his own workshop and made hunting knives. The fighter first appeared in 1978 as a handmade from his shop and could be ordered with a choice of 4 woods for handle material. Mine was ordered in 1982 with Cocobolo. I ordered one in Ebony in 1989 that is slightly different in blade geometry (about 1.5mm longer with a slightly different placement of the blood groove). I think it would be hard to find all the minor variations as there are no serial numbers and no differentiation of lots that I can find. Junglee approached Hattori in 1993 about mass producing his knives in Taiwan. All of the Junglee production has been in 440c while originals can be found in ATS-34 or more recently AUS-8 steels. The big draw to the Junglee was its price at <$75 and its immediate availability. Originals can still be bought if/when he makes a run of them but they run $300-600 depending on materials (still a bargain for the quality) and usually sell out his production runs in less than a day.

You can keep an eye on what is available from him here:http://www.japaneseknifedirect.com/hattori.html

Iā€™ve got a couple of those, SanRenMu are starting to use Sandvik 12C27 in some of their new knives, it makes a nice change but they do 8Cr13MoV heat treat so well itā€™ll be hard to beat. They are both good quality relatively inexpensive steels.

What I do find a bit disconcerting is SanRenMu have stopped putting the steel type on the blades of the smaller ā€œhome marketā€ knives. I trust SanRenMu not to misrepresent the steels in the specs for a knife, they have built a good reputation and I doubt that they would want to destroy that, but the likes of FastTech and Exduct are not too careful in the descriptions.

Enlan EL-01 for yard work in the morning:

RAT I in the afternoon:

Couple of strange ones today doing some yard work.

Byrd HB is the only knife I own that is tip down, the clip mounting location for tip-up is exactly where your palm goes. The kershaw has a very cool lock.
Both are nightmareā€™s to sharpen.

Iā€™m presuming that the Byrd serrations are the same, different, size as Spyderedge serrations.
Iā€™ve a couple of items that might help with the sharpening - Lansky make a ceramic sharpener for Spyderco serrations -
Lansky Spdyer sharpener.
And for all plain edged blades but especially good on recurve blades -
Lansky 4 rod turn box.
Iā€™ve linked to a U.K. supplier, obviously youā€™ll get them for less if you are in the U.S.A.
Thereā€™s also a Spyder sharpener for Cold Steel serrations and a multi sharp for normal serrations, they all sharpen plain blades as well.
A lot less money than a Spyderco Sharpmaker, over here anyway.
I only have one Spyderedge blade so the Lansky Spyder Sharpener was ideal for me

For it (and all serrations) I use a paper wheel. For the kershaw I use my DMT Diamond files in a custom block I made out of Cherry. I have a pretty advanced sharpening setup, I actually enjoy sharpening / maintenance more than acquiring new blades!