I ordered them from Ali. I won't need 50 as I don't plan on selling drivers or chips. They should be fine if they are really 12F617-I-SN's. I'll keep you posted.
In addition to Cereal_killer, I wanted to thank tterev3 for making this driver possible. Getting excited to start playing with them and with programming these PIC's
By the way folks, the PIC programming kit is now only $19.80 at Banggood. Mine arrived very fast. I haven't used mine yet, but it looks good.
> I don’t think you should feel you have to provide these drivers as cost. …
> your time is valuable and have no issue with you including something for you time in the price.
> It might even make folks feel better about taking the plunge into this new driver.
+11
I received the 12F617 I SN's Saturday. They look just like in the picture here. Also have the 17mm boards from OSH Park. Not sure when I will get much time to work on FW though. Got a car project underway right now. Hope to wrap it up fast though.
Just finished up installing the first one of these I’ve Zener modded and it works great. Since voltage monitoring doesn’t work once the Zener is added I went ahead and used the original 1822 to have all the strobe options and adjustment (originally switched to the 617 cause that version has battery monitoring but not the extra strobes) the 1822 version doesn’t have the battery monitor but that doesn’t matter in this application. Again the pinout is exactly the same so its a direct swap.
Note the Zener gets REALLY hot while it’s connected to the PK3 since the current is actually higher than the 200ohm resistor allows while it’s running, careful, I wouldn’t leave it connected very long and don’t touch the Zener.
This is in a Yezl Y3. Pic’s later…
Cool. Which of Everett's 1822 FW's did you use? I'm aware of at least 3 he has out for single color light.
This same “Ultimate flashlight code”, I was actually using it on 1822 before switching over to 617. Actually I think its what the link in the OP is to
I’ve just finished up a new board, 17mm and 10x7135. It runs a 10F322 which has 2 FW’s available (thanks again to tterev3) One is a very simple clicky FW with 2 modes plus a slow signaling strobe, one of the 2 modes is a user configurable level (set with clicking to start a ramp then click again to set ramp position) the other mode is max followed by a slow flasher. You can see the UI here including a video and a link to DL from toykeeper’s hosting (havent personally verified the code is good there but I’m sure she knows what she’s doing)
The other code is a version of the same Ultimate Flashlight Code for the 15 and 17dd_PIC’s but on the 10F322 and written in C for all of us!
I’m waiting till my first samples get in before I share the project but this should be a very versatile driver.
The Zener pad there doesnt get populated for 1cell builds, its just there as an option (I’m also going in to add zener pad’s to my 15 and 17 boards tonight too)
Just got some images from CK on my y3 and the light looks great and your driver is a work of art. I will let CK post pics if he wants.
Thanks man! One final change I made was to place the zener over the top of the MCU instead of at the 200ohm resistor [to GND] like in the pic I sent you. I also went ahead and got the driver’s updated to allow the zener to stack over the cap (now on the back of the board) for a better mounting solution- the links in the OP of this thread are the most current (and final) revision.
I’m gonna go ahead and post the pic’s I took in one of the Y3 threads, I think its more fitting there.
Can you expand ground ring, make a 20mm one of these too…what would it cost for one of these on for the UF F13?
Awesome job man!
Newest version of these is based on the 10F322, this gives us the option of both momentary and clicky FW’ (written in C!)
This one also allows reprogramming with the driver still installed in the head!
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/XlpmBqmI
you’ll notice there is only the one decoupling cap, not the “new” location Comfy found for the AVR drivers. I have verified this isnt needed on these PIC drivers!
sure, that woldnt be a problem at all now that I’m using Eagle with the proper technique, only a single operation would be needed- to expand the milling layer, poly would automatically take care of the rest. Doing so sould also allow room for programming pad’s on the bottom of the board.
How much for postage to Australia? I have a P60 that’s crying out for a decent driver!
OP and demo video’s updated
Congrats on the new driver. It's going to be cool to see what all is done with it by members, especially with the FW.
Now I gotta figure out want to do with my 50 12f617's and 3 boards. Do you any functional FW for that chip? I got nowhere in my attempts to debug the one that you sent to me that was underdevelopment. It's no biggie if you don't. I will eventually convert a program over if I have to.
Will you please keep the 617/1822 board available on OSH Park? I imagine I will be buying more for my remaining chips after I get one working.
I'm a simple moon-low-med-high guy (still thanks for making the ultimate moon-l-m-h FW for me, still not tested but I will use them these days), so these boards are not for me. But I do think that you and tterev are doing an amazing job with all these new boards!
I find this thread all a little over my head. Is it possible to just “buy” a driver ready to go? I’m happy soldering wires, but not really interested in anything more. Thanks.
I also was considering these PIC based boards -- I thought my head was spinning on the ATtiny13A boards... My concerns on the PIC boards:
- Can't get the basic Q's answered from here - parts list, firmware, tool kit/dev kit?
- not sure if basics are covered, like voltage monitoring? Not terrible if it's not though...
- source available in C? This is a requirement for me. If not, its a No-Go.
- the UI is well, out there - very advanced, very complicated. I can't totally follow the videos and would be afraid to put a light like that in anyone else's hands. If there was a way to lock it down so a user can't get into trouble using it, it might be worth while. I've found in using these advanced UI's, I find myself inadvertently in some kind of programming mode. Also, the use of dbl clicks can be troublesome, easily confused with 2 quick clicks.
If I could find a parts list, find the source code in C, see pics of assembled boards, and get a better grasp on the UI or be able to get a simpler UI that will support both e-switch and power switched lights from the same board, it may be worthwhile switching from the ATtiny13A designs.
see the signature line at BLF 15 & 17dd_PIC : final version update 10/14
CK’s made a variety of them for me, all good.