17mm & 20/26/27mm single-sided DD/FET driver release: A17DD-SO8 / A20DD-SO8 / etc

No, not correct. I placed some strike-through where I quoted you for the benefit of those that skim. The LDO version requires the LDO. This thread is really still about the AxxDD-SO8 drivers which do not require an LDO (but are are Zener ready). v024 is the current version of the A17DD-SO8, here it is on OSH Park.

:wink: RMM asked about selling them, I think he’ll be doing that fairly soon.

It’s now known all the way to Japan that I talk too much! :stuck_out_tongue:

And to think, I was about to put together one or two of these for my friends in Japan, pity…

I have the Ver 024 built and installed in an X6 Triple, waiting on emitters…

I am willing to make me these boards, I have the components but not the FET. And Mouser and Digikey are too expensive. I found these on Ebay, will they do the job? :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PSMN9R0-30YL-NXP-MOSFET-N-CH-30V-61A-LFPAK-10PCS-LOT-/281514838554?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418b978a1a

I think it’s probably OK for most single cell single emitter applications, but none of the specs are really that good compared to the one I specified in the OP. I think that besides being targeted at a different application this is probably an older FET (based on the use of LFPAK instead of LFPAK56?). PM sent.

EDIT: Changed my mind and added strike-through. Rds(on) is just not looking good here, and nothing else is that good either. It might work acceptably or it might not. It’s definitely not a good choice.

Oh goodies are coming, my boards will be delivered sometime this week.

i took the liberty of adding a little personal touch on the silk screen to the insides, while the credits given where its due, Thanks again Alex for making these beautiful pieces.

I have ordered them in 2Oz Copper instead of 1Oz, Immersion gold, 1.6mm FR4, black soldermask. to my liking.

I am also missing the FET , for now the best (economical) option was the aliexpress seller but It still a slightly lower spec’d FET not sure if this would be an exact replacement for the PSMN3R0

Its PSMN6R0-30YLB
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/PSMN6R0-30YLB-115-MOSFET-N-CH-30V-LFPAK-PSMN6R0-30YLB-NEW-Semiconductors-6R0-30Y-PSMN6R0-30Y/32223717242.html

Crap, I had no clue that zener mods were that bad with e-switch lights.... Yikes! Sure it was mentioned (I guess?) but totally missed it. Thanks wight for starting that thread and new board design!! I'll be sure to susbscribe and follow. Hhmm... Means the Y3 MT-G2's had that issue? Oh boy... Deleted - no harm intended Tuff to keep up with all the driver goin's on's...

This looks very suitable to me. Do you see any spec you do not like?

I moved my reply over to the other thread.



Not in particular, but some vary.. have a look.


PSMN3R0
/ PSMN6R0
Drain to Source Voltage (Vdss) ------------------- 30V / 30V
Current - Continuous Drain (Id) @ 25°C ---------- 100A (Tc) / 71A (Tc)
Rds On (Max) @ Id, Vgs -------------------------- 3.1 mOhm @ 25A, 10V / 6.5 mOhm @ 20A, 10V
Vgs(th) (Max) @ Id --------------------------------2.2V @ 1mA / 1.95V @ 1mA
Gate Charge (Qg) @ Vgs --------------------------46.4nC @ 10V / 19nC @ 10V
Input Capacitance (Ciss) @ Vds------------------- 2939pF @ 15V / 1088pF @ 15V
Power - Max ---------------------------------------91W / 58W
Mounting Type Surface Mount (same)
Package / Case SC-100, SOT-669, 4-LFPAK (same)
Supplier Device Package LFPAK56, Power-SO8 (same)

When you look at the Vgs graphs the Vgs advantage of the FET you selected (PSMN6R0-30YLB) becomes even more clear in my opinion. AFAIK lower gate charge is desirable, also lower input capacitance sounds like a good thing. Dissipation (the 58W number) doesn’t really matter in this context, we should not dissipate anything significant in the FET. The Rds(on) seems like it may end up 10-15 milliohms higher in the Vgs range we actually use. That may not be ideal, but I think it’s acceptable.

Hey wight, was perusing mouser and found the PSMNOR9-30YLD with an even lower Rds(still below 2mOhms at 3V) but it runs the price up. Maybe a GB for a bunch and adding normal postage to that might be reasonable.

There is no such thing as normal postage out of US, unfortunately.

When I did the GB for the tiny 10 postage was pretty cheap. Photo envelopes were only $.50 and postage and paypal fees worldwide were only $1.15. These are more expensive FET’s so it makes more sense to do a GB for a bunch than ordering onesie-twosie. Still, it would makes sense to try them out and see if they’re worth the added expense.

My first batch run, first homes:

Oops, already fixed the bridge between pins 5&6 on the ATtiny13A:

X6 BLF Special Edition:

ZeusRay zoomie:

This looks like a good FET. I don’t see any downside other than the price; I think all specifications are either acceptable [with no impact on performance] or better. The low Rds(on) through 3v looks especially interesting. Only testing will tell us whether it’s worth an extra $1/ea in general, but I’d say that this FET has better specs than PSMN3R0-30YLD.

Thanks for the pics Tom E, your builds look good!

Sweet driver isn’t it? :slight_smile:

Y’all would come up with a better FET immediately after I ordered 25 of em!

I did bout all the continuity tests I could think of but guess didn't check for shorts. Only way I noticed the short on the MCU was by looking at the picture I took - funny....

Not happy yet with the reflow job - parts getting moved, sometimes blown off, etc., by my cheapo hot air tool. Also I got a fantastic solder paste needle from Richard at MtnElectronics, but I'm still trying to get used to it. Didn't try stencils yet, but that sort of would change my supply from a needle to a tub of solder paste, so dunno...

I’ve been thinking of making an updated landing pad for D1/R3 with a little more guidance for the SOD-323 diode’s leads. That won’t help with C1 though, I think that’s the only other component it looked like you had noticeable trouble with. (and I mean that only in a perfectionist sense - clearly the ‘trouble’ is only a mild aesthetic problem!!) I think a little less paste + improved heat gun technique is probably the key to that one.

I did not do more than two driver buil-ups with it yet, but I certainly can recommend using a heat block, like my converted 12V solder iron, it worked perfectly, and no components blown away.

( https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/16170#comment-334252 -post#27- for how I made it , and oh, do not watch the shakey led reflow vid in this post, it was almost two years ago, I'm way better at it now :-) )