Driver Ultrafire F13

I bought a Ultrafire F13, The driver is in the figure:

someone recognizes him? Can you tell me why it has two points of “out +”? With what can I replace it? The diameter is 22mm.

I have the SkyEye version (same driver). My plan is to try out these 21mm contact boards and mount a Nanjg driver to it.

-Garry

yes, I too have thought of something like that; the ideal would be to have adapter rings 22 ↔ 17.

(this is 18 ↔ 17 from FastTech)

I have the Sky Eye version too, and I left the driver in. I modded it for more current and removed next-mode memory.
You could easily convert that driver to a contact plate if you wanted to add a new driver on the other side.

How do I remove the next mode memory or use the existing driver as a contact board?

Removing next mode memory is easy if you can solder small components.
You need a resistor with a value between 330k and 470 kOhms ish.
Solder that resistor right across the little brown thing (called a capacitor) next to the big black chip.
With that in place, the memory will timeout back to High about 4-6 seconds after you turn off the light.

Turning it into a contact board is also easy.
You can leave the positive (red) wire where it is and feed that to the new driver’s positive.
Move the negative (blue) wire to the ring around the edge of the board. Then connect the other end to the ring on your new driver.
Edit: you may want to use bigger wires if you plan to drive it with 3A or more.
Edit2: Checking my board, I had it backwards; the driver controls the output on the positive side. Need to find a convenient positive contact point…

Thanks for the info. What if 4 to 6 seconds is still too long for me? What resistor do I use to reduce the time needed to 2 to 3 seconds?

A smaller value resistor shortens the timeout. I think a 100k Ohm or lower will make it too short to switch modes reliably.

Thanks, I realizate today the change and it works perfectly, now I do not even need to find another driver. I put a resistor 330KΩ, after two seconds, when turned off, lights up at HI level.

Actually you don’t even have to solder…the pencil lead mod works fine [put a thick trace of graphite on the capacitor so it can drain much faster]…mine times out and resets back to high after about 3 seconds

If you feel adventurous…there is now a 22mm custom Nangj style driver

Adventurous is the right word! I’ll share that 22mm driver after we actually have boards in hand and know that it A. works and B. fits in the light. :wink:

Personally I like my reset to be faaast. More like <1s.

There is now a 22mm East-92 (direct drive) type driver as well :wink:

Hm, weird, I have two F13s — after a few months of intermittent use, the stock one suddenly got erratic, and now generally has Hi-Hi-Strobe,
sometimes Hi-Medium-Low-SOS
and only very rarely has the original Hi-Med-Low-Strobe-SOS

The other one on which I swapped emitters still has all its usual levels.

And neither of them ever had ‘next mode’ memory — they always reverted to high.

I guess I need to open it up and add a picture of the driver I’ve got — and then ask advice, and replace it with something better.

If you want to replace it with something better you don’t really need to remove it and take pictures. AFAIK your options are:

Does the pencil-trick work with this driver to remove the next mode memory?

There is no reason it would not. (Yes, it will work.)

Thanks a lot Alex.