Very nice idea for the switch. Really cool build!
Nice switch! Love how it’s almost unnoticeable against the side of the light, but gives the full function of an e-switch.
I’m thinking of modding my S2+ mini 18350 into an e-switch light. My approach is much less professional looking though: Instead I’ll glue the e-switch onto the outside of the light then bulid a small casing around it out of aluminum, with a cut-down rubber boot.
Once that’s complete, the next step would be to cut down the tailcap. After all: one advantage of a sideswitch is that it’s no longer necessary to have space in the tail for a tail clicky. I figure this would will let me reduce my 84mm S2+ mini to maybe 74mm. The projecting sideswitch casing would also serve as an anti-roll mechanism. Battery would be the same IMR 18500 my S2+ mini is using now with an estimated OTF output of maybe 2500 lumens on a fresh cell.
Very nice work, I really like the Convoy S lights, so many great mods have been done with them.
Very creative. I like how descret it is yet easy to feal for and locate. I might have to give this a try.
wow nice build. big effort with the e switch
Sweet. Very nice mod. This is another thread that the pictures make everything look bigger than it really is.
If only it was bigger….
Did l mention it was a PITA…. 
WOW!! Awesome mod…never though I would see a side clicky on a Convoy S series tube light
Very sweet build. Congratulations.
Brilliant solution for a side switch!
It looks live a good job done! 
Great work on that switch.
I can imagine… But it’s a quality mod, that’s for sure.
Awesome side-switch mod!
I never thought of mounting the switch inside then using a plunger. Great job!
I’m thinking one of my next mods will be to mount a sideswitch on my 18350+ mini. I ordered a couple spare hosts from RMM in case I mess up my current one.
Pretty cool! I like seeing all of the cool ideas you come up with.
Thanks all.
I’ve used this several times now during the night (mostly the ‘toilet run’). The beam is really ‘soft’, so it’s easy on the eyes. Really makes the colors ‘pop’ …… ewww. Sorry 0:)
I tried to do something very similar and failed because I couldn't figure out how to wire a reverse clicky into that mess. With a different host... Maybe next time I'll get it. One side ground to the body the other -to LED?
You want a reverse clicky and not an electronic switch?
Conventional switches (like the reverse clicky) must interrupt main current to the battery to function. Adding one in a sideswitch like in the original post is going to be more difficult than going with an e-switch. The e-switch just needs to have one end connected to the driver and the other to the pill or body tube. And because main current doesn’t flow directly through it, both the switch and the wiring to it can be very small.
However, if you did want to install a side reverse clicky, here are some suggestions for how to do it:
Possible locations to wire a reverse clicky sideswitch:
- between the driver negative contact ring and the pill. This sounds quite doable and is probably the way I’d pick if I wanted to make one of these. In most drivers, the contact ring around the edge touches the pill, body tube or driver retaining ring in order to make negative contact. To do this mod, have that negative connection instead pass solely through your switch. How to do it:
1. With the driver out of the light, solder a wire from the negative contact around the upper edge of the driver to your reverse clicky switch.
2. Solder a second wire to the other end of your switch to the pill. If the light has a brass pill this shouldn’t be too hard. However, this will be a pain with an aluminum pill. For those, I recommend drilling a tiny whole in the side of the pill and then threading the wire through it. Bend the wire over and solder a glob onto the end. Should be enough for an electrical contact, though I also usually use conductive epoxy to hold it in place.
3. File a notch into the side of the pill for the switch wire from the driver (optional).
4. Insulate the contact around the wire you soldered to the driver and entire negative contact ring. Best way to do this is probably to use a toothpick to lather those parts up with arctica alumina epoxy. Wait for it to cure.
5. Mount the switch into the bottom of the light. I’d use arctic alumina epoxy. Also place the switch plunger and anything used to keep the plunger from falling out.
6. Mount the driver. I’d glue it on the back of the pill with arctic alumina epoxy. If necessary, file down the back of the pill so it has more room.
- between the battery + terminal and the center terminal on the driver. Mount a contact plate where the driver is now, then move the driver closer to the star. Mount the clicky in the space between. Connect one end to the + contact on the driver and the other do the center contact on your contact plate. The difficulty will be in remounting the star and finding room for the contact plate. You might need to grind out your pill and/or file down your driver.
- between the tailcap spring and the body tube. This is where conventional tailcap clickies are mounted. Not a convenient location for connecting a side clicky as you’d need to run 2 wires from the clicky to the back of the light.
Yes, I recall reading that one