WTS 4 Illumination Machines LUM 5-90 95mm x 62mm Diamond Text. Reflector *All Sold *

Looks awesome. How do this compare to the stock SR90 with the dated SST90 LED? did the output go up? better tint? better throw?
I have an SR90 but its still stock.

DBSAR, there’s no comparison, I mean, really….5200 lumens? The XHP70 is, of course, a multi die emitter with essentially 4 XM-L2 dies on the single substrate. To get a smooth beam, the diamond pattern of this reflector really does the job.

If you’re happy with your stock SR90, don’t mess with it. This one had the SST-90 replaced a long time ago with an SBT70. Then it came to me for an upgrade as it was getting left behind by new lights. So I figured out how to reduce the output from the big driver and put a de-domed XM-L2 U2 1A in it for, in the end, 645Kcd. But I really have no need for such a tight long distance thrower. Hence this modification, bringing the ol girl into the modern age of MOSFET drivers, 7 modes, reversing UI, and humongous output. :slight_smile:

Nice. if i wasn’t so strapped for cash right now i woudl buy that last reflector and an XPH70 to do the mod to mine. Was there much other mods to the light & driver needed to run this?

I don’t have a wall wart charger, only a car charger, and the original battery is getting to where it won’t charge up fully. I do have a second battery tube that came to me with the light, it had been gutted. So I modified that second tube to allow a pair of Efest Purple 26650’s to fit and this gives much better current flow. I did spring bypasses at the head, and put an A17DD S08 driver in it after removing the original driver and setting it aside. There’s so much room in there, swapping the driver is a piece of cake. I simply wrapped the driver and wires in/out with kapton tape. 18ga wires to and from the driver.

I did have to drill and tap the brass cup that holds the emitter, enabling me to bolt down the star and run the big 18ga wires through the wings of the star so the LUM 5-90 fit around it. Essentially, that’s it. The stock battery still works of course, it just won’t flow the big current. I haven’t taken a current reading but it should be somewhere North of 10A.

A shot of the XHP-70 in the LUM 5-90 illuminated with an LEDEngin 365nm UV light.

I’ll pick up some small boxes and get a postage on these tomorrow. Didn’t get out today, the wife is sick. :frowning:

Get well soon Mrs DBC. I hope Dale is as good a nurse as he is at building lights. If so your in good hands.

I’ve got these boxed up, ready to go out, but my USPS online account only allows for 2-Day Priority mail at $6.02. So I’m taking them to the Post Office in the morning to see how much cheaper they can do it from there.

If y’all want to split the difference on that shipping, I’ll cover half and you can pay $3.00 and get a tracking number, see em by Wednesday. What’dya say?

Sounds good to me. I think you will be pushing to get mine to me in two days though but go for it anyway. Thanks.

hahaha, I wonder if they do an Overnight Express to Australia? Should be pretty cheap, right? I mean, it’s not like you’re in the Outback or anything….

You haven’t seen that box with Cutter written all over it yet? That box will have some serious mileage on it!

payment sent for mine :)

Oops! I need to go PP! :shy:

Edit: Ahhh! I feel better now! :bigsmile:

Payment Sent (Unique Transaction ID # 8TE64456GC333513U)

Mine shipped, thanks Dale

No box yet my friend. The quickest post is usually 5 or 6 working days.

Dale, I see above that you said the reflector is easily cut with good scissors. But, what about the opening at the back for the mcpcb? I want to open it up just a little, but I’m afraid that I might warp the reflector messing around with it, since it is just sheet aluminum. Is there a sure-fire way to widen the opening at the back without ruining something? :~

The opening at the back is made for a star mcpcb, like a SinkPAD. It fits perfectly, with a 20mm star. A round mcpcb like the Noctigon doesn’t fit.

The aluminum sheet is actually thinner than I’d like, making it difficult to open that entry without a higher risk of messing up. You can use a round file and cut it that way, probably the safest. Or a dowel, something like a round pencil, with sandpaper taped tightly around it. That would also work. You could tape sandpaper tightly wrapped around a drill bit and spin it with the drill, slower would be better.

i for got to ppost but i got my package fast 2 days :) thanks dale

Thanks. That’s what I thought, but I was hoping there may be a chance that you’d opened one up and knew how best to do that. I’m still waiting on my MT-G2’s that I bought from IOS a couple weeks ago. Two of them are on 16mm boards, so they should fit. But, I was trying to test the reflector with LED’s I already have on 20mm stars, and it wasn’t fitting very well. But it almost fits. That’s why I asked about opening it up a little. Maybe a small file will work. I don’t have a round one, but I have a small triangle file that will probably do the trick.

I’d say use a rotary grinder (Dremel, etc.), but be sure to mask the inside of the reflector from the swarf. Something cup shaped like a bottle cap with a little hot glue or putty to keep it in place would work well to mask the inside of the reflector during the process but without touching the inside surfaces.

I used a dremel, (rotary tool), with a #115 bit and opened mine up with that. Speed, (1-5), was on 2-1/2 I believe. It was easy to do and I just blew out the filings with compressed air. Held the reflector in one hand and used the dremel with the other. It doesn’t take much to open it up.