Check their shipping fees! Rsonline ships to the Netherlands for only a few euro's, that is why they are cheaper for me, especially if it is only for a few leds. They are also one of the main distributors for Osram. But I have not been able to order there as a private person so I do that via my work.
Thanks both :-)
WarHawk-AVG: think you are spot on. Odin, the God of War :-D - or maybe Týr
djozz:
For the Bergquist MCPCB a minimum order of 10 pcs is required. For the SFH 4715A LED it's a minimum of 2.
There is nowhere i can change shipping type. The shipping fee is 85DKK (9Euro) no matter what. Been searching for a long time. Only useful info I found was free delivery on orders above 500 DKK (~67 Euro)
Sending a mail to their support right now :-)
That was fast. Got a reply from the support within 5 minutes:
Google translate:
Hi Carsten
You can not choose the shipping type, basically, Post Denmark we deliver with but if the goods are picked either our English or French stock it with DHL
9 euro is more than I can remember (more like 6). But at least it is better than 25 dollars. Why on earth is the minimum 2 leds???
I have absolutely no idea :-) but having to order two LED's and 10 MCPCB's from Rs-online, Mouser is cheaper :-P
Both lights finished. Decided to build two, to make some comparisons (haven't reached the comparison part yet, because the I'm still waiting for a EU plug/adapter for my camera/monitor battery)
The batteries i use are the KeepPower 18650 3400mAh - but it's a VERY tight fit. I wont be able to get them out without removing the lens (to push the battery out the tail)
What do you guys do? -Do I have to find slimmer batteries, or do I have to sand down the inside of the flashlight?
Also had some problems with the soldering, because the irons wouldn't get hot enough (still borrowing soldering irons, because I haven't bought one myself yet)
Looking down (through the camera) at the 4715S LED
3d-printed camera-mount
Setup for camera
Nice light you have made! What current are you driving them at?
Im using the Nanjg AK-47A - so it should be around 1050mA. Using the fourth star on the driver to get the Lo (10%) > Hi (100%) mode. I actually have no use of the Lo mode -but do not know how to make it use only the Hi mode.
Also had a problem with the board. Had to sand the diameter down to fit the brass pill.
And holy c... a lot of solder and thermal glue on the lights i received! The driver was soldered to the brass pill.My soldering irons combined with solder wick and lots of flux simply wasn't hot enough to remove the solder, so I had to use a small blow torch - and totally fried the stock drivers.
But hey - had to mess something up in this early stage of learning to mod/solder :-)
Nice discussion. I just got a Crosman .22 caliber air pistol kit that came with a stock and a bunch of other stuff and it’s been extremely fun shooting at cans.
Looks awesome with bare frame of the stock/butt! Now you just need some IR lights. And some rats :-)
I may put some money into this thing. I’ve been reading the first thing I need to do is buy the steel receiver and some spring I think.
…but then I look at something like this and it’s all turn key with the included scope, so I’m undecided.
I'm not sure what a steel receiver is. Something to mount the scope to?
As for the amazon link - in reply #2 alpg88 pointed out to me that the brake barrel spring piston air guns is harder on the scope than air powered ones. So your current gun should be better - if you can find some way of attaching the rig.
I think one of the youtube videos in my original post had a gun similar to yours. Will try and find it for you ...
Mine is a brake barrel spring piston - but I'll give it a try and see if it holds up :-)
i thought this gun was somewhat similar to yours:
And i stumbled across this (click and scroll a bit down) - looks like yours, but with a scope mounted on a picatinny rail.
I think it might be to small to fit both flashlight, screen and camera to it.
Edit:
Sorry -it does not have a picatinny rail. The ring mounts must be screwed directly on to the barrel.
wow… i wish i had found this thread before…
i am PRETTY sure the “lads” over at “nightvisionforumUK” know who SEDSTAR is… (they call me “sedders”, lol)
I have built scope add-ons… and “scopeless” both.
I even built my own IR illuminators from scratch (oslon 4715s… i went thru the math and ended up with a 3 and 4 lens version i like best… my “record” was seeing my IR die well focused, over 800 meters.)
looks like you went with the e700 cam, great cam… I was the first one to put the EJ230 INSIDE of a “gutted out” regular gun scope, and use the main lens as a lens for the CAM… (they nicknamed it the “FUTON” build, a-la “poor mans photon”)
with a airgun? theres no need to go “scopeless” until you are varminting with actual firearms, distance wise.
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your build pictures look about right, your doing fine… personally? i like to mount my screen to the left of the scope, and its on a hinge… it flips out to the left, like a camcorder screen does, well i like it there.
this home made NV is a LOT OF FUN…
my “rigs” put A-N-Y “gen one” tubed rig to SHAME, and stomp a mudhole into their arse in the alley out back, LMAO
a decent “scopeless” build? if you make a really good IR illuminator and get it all working good?? they give gen 2 and up tubed units a run for their money… and at 300 or so USA dollars?? thats a SERIOUS “budget” improvement…
me and my hunting buddy can “scan” the fields for coyotes farther than our guns can really shoot, lol… with the right SCOPE underneath it all, i can get a “scoped add on” rig out to a couple hundred meters with good picture.
a good “scopeless” rig? is smaller and lighter, and, often times doesnt need ANY infrared light at all…
welcome to the digital DIY night vision club! you’ll be “hooked” for sure now!
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and a warm welcome to any “nightvisionforumUK” members here.
heck, i only got into “flashlights” and ended up HERE at THIS site? because of my interest in making a “zoomie” for IR leds, lol…
heres a “scopeless” rig…
machined out the inside of a real gun scope (small 4x32 scope, cost 30 USA dollars)
screen was less than 20 dollars
EJ230 cam in-SIDE the gun scope… 100 dollars
I have what? 150 dollars in total?
heres my tiny “weestar” IR illuminator… smallest one i ever saw anyone make on the UK site…
thats a P60 build, oslon 4715s, 1050ma 12v driver
“2 lens” focusing, took them off of a 7 dollar “bbgun” scope.
lenses are about 1 inch in diameter, LMAO
not quite 30 dollars, and that was having someone build the p60 unit for me in europe, LMAO
shown next to two cr123 “primaries” for size reference (tiny thing, fits ANYwhere)
heres one of my “big” scratch build IR illuminators… same p60 inside unit inside of the focusing
this is a 4-lens focusing system…all lenses “free” from scrounging
same cost, just some scrap pieces of PVC epoxied together
dollar bill for size reference
now for “beamshots” (home made NV in action…)
control shot… dark as pitch… distance is 200+ meters
heres the “tiny” illuminator same picture, 30 seconds later, “flood mode”
heres the “tiny” illuminator, same picture, “focused emitter” slightly de-focused for image clarity (no die lines)
NOW for the “money shot”… same scopeless rig? heres 800+ meters… with “big” illuminator…
control shot… no illumination…
heres the same image… with the “big” 4 lens illuminator…
heres the “google maps” distances (swimming pool = 200meters, across river = 800 meters)
PS - this is the “straight line” distances, ACTUAL distance is longer, as i am on a down angle (wink!)
(remember? you had a 500 dollar budget?? this is on a 300 dollar build…)
we have guys on the UK site, take shots that got animals on the first shot, at over 400 meters… these things can be very accurate…
my 300 dollar build? will perform, for how far you can SEE, side by side… with units costing over 2000 dollars, LMAO
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so yeah… i think i qualify as a “budget” builder, lol… mind you, thats my MONEY cost… i put some T-I-M-E into this hobby… i’m not bragging (well, maybe just a little, lol) i mainly wanted to show you, how well you can get a unit performing, for very little money…
NOTE: the images you see here? are CRAP… because you are looking at a cheap cellphone picture snapped by a shaky hand… taking a picture of a small screen… trust me, the actual image my eye sees on the screen? is CRISP and CLEAR (once i get a SD card recording unit? i can show a video like the UK lads always make)
toodles !
oh yeah… heres what you can DO with the unit…
and? heres my “spotter” unit… picture is i dont even know, cant find it on the map exactly yet… has to be thousands of meters away, lol… pitch black to the eye, you cant see anything? but… with home made NV (no illumination used, ambient light only from no moon out…)
unit (hand held spotter) that took the picture… (control pic with cell phone? was black as pitch, showed nothing)
i ADDED a lens inside of a “real” camera lens, to get the “F” number down ridiculously low for hot rod performance…
Wow, that's one dead raccoon! :D
yeah, hes dead all right… and? “that aint ketchup”, LMAO
head shots are cool, lol
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its really kinda funny, is the OP only needs to go “ratting” at airgun distances? I mean, how far are you really gonna shoot a low powered airgun at anyways? I mean, SOME guys get some real distance with them, but… I know i need a real firearm for distance…
anyways, just about ANY small 3-AA sized “cheap zoomie” will get you 50 meters, as long as you use a oslon 4715s… and thats with a low budget “add on” unit… (e700)
you can easily get by with a 30 dollar camera, if you “spec” the sony chip numbers right (UK site can help)
but really, 100 bucks for a e700 or ej230 is a few extra bucks well spent.
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cant wait to see how he does…
i got “burglarized” and all my night vision prototype stuff stolen… i cant WAIT to get more stuff and re-make my kits back up…
Hi Sedstar :),
Yes if half moon/ moon/ star night conditions I don't doubt that they will work well. But even gen 3 needs illuminator on dark nights.
Is this rig on your picture a scopless or futon? If it is a scopless rig than it has really tiny front lenses fitted instead scope objective lenses ?
I see you have 3,5" low resolution screen... Have you considered to put better screen or viewfinder?
The biggest minus I see in this rigs is monitor glare... Did you find a good way to eliminate this?
