Review: Convoy S2+ (the red one!) – Fantastic 18650 EDC

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musicmagic
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Antenne wrote:
Maybe these are the same parts (steel switch) as the ones built-in the rechargeable Models like the Dipper BD03/BD04? !http://img.banggood.com/thumb/view/2014/zhanghuaihong/08/SKU160012/SKU16...!

Ding Ding Ding! I believe these are the exact same switch.

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Tom E
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Maybe... Definitely different from the L4's switch - I compared them.

wight
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zoom zoom wrote:

Man that switch… Any chance we could buy the switch and metal cap separate to swap in current convoy S lights?!!? Mtnelectronics has a lot of pocket clips available, not much extra cost, weeks less shipping time!

Simon specifically said in another thread that it is not possible to swap a rubber boot onto the red S2+, which uses a smaller than normal diameter boot hole in the tailcap.

Tom E wrote:

Sorry, no pics. It’s the std small white Omten mounted on a round PCB. The brass retainer ring is reverse mounted – lots of fun to figure that one out… Smile Everything is std accept the SS button parts themselves. the center button has a weird rubber boot on it, but it sure works well…

So it’s not about the switch at all, but the switch assembly? How does the feel compare with Solarforce switch assemblies?

Aesthetically I find the SS switch assembly jarring on these lights. The double-bubble thing is the main issue, not the fact that it’s SS. Compare with something like this SS flashlight or this brass flashlight to see what I’m taking issue with. Aesthetically I’d prefer an aluminum plunger with no additional bezel ring.

Chicken Drumstick wrote:
Convoy S2+ 18650 – XM-L2 T6-3B 7135*8
Thanks for the review and pics!

Break’s over for now. That was a long one! wight catchup Wink Wink Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Martini
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I need one!

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Tom E
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Dunno - you'd have to try this one -- it seems done right. Nice amt of force, nice amt of depression to engage - doesn't feel cheap at all. Who knows, I probably got a good one for a change Smile. With the rim (bezel), you have to have a shallow depression, otherwise it's frustrating. This design seems bout right. The L4 has a shallower depression to engage, but e-switch's have that advantage. This S2+ at least has the tail end cap flanges to protect against accidental depressions, unlike the side switch lights like the L4.

wight
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Maybe if I pick one up the enhanced feel will win me over despite my opinion of how it looks. Hmm.

EDIT: I’m convinced that I should at least try it. I ordered 1 unit.

Break’s over for now. That was a long one! wight catchup Wink Wink Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Tom E
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Ohh - just finished an update mod. Took a 2.1A Nanjg from FastTech, boosted up to 2.8A, added a OTC cap, took the 4C LED and reflowed it onto a SinkPAD. PITA, but I filed/dremel'd out the driver retainer ring so it's just fits around the 7135's, allowing it to thread on. It's an awesome EDC now. This is my mode set:

#define MODE_MOON 5 // min reliable # to use

#define MODE_LOW 20 // (8%) Can comment out to remove mode

#define MODE_MED 80 // (31%) Can comment out to remove mode

#define MODE_TURBO 255 // Max for mode #4 Turbo (Can comment out to remove mode)

#define MODE_TURBO_LOW 100 // (~40%) Level turbo ramps down to if turbo enabled

#define TURBO_TIMEOUT 240 // 120 sec turbo timeout

With these modes with the quick OFF time, using STARTOffTime with a mod so when in Turbo Low - one click restores Turbo, the nice feel switch, warm 4C (it appears to be warmer, more like a 5B1), and paired with a Pana BD @3200 mAh cell it's just plain awesome... Smile

At 2.8A, a S2+, like any 18650 tube light, gets hot quick. A knock-down to 40% after 2 mins seems bout right.

bdiddle
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Tom E wrote:

Ohh – just finished an update mod. Took a 2.1A Nanjg from FastTech, boosted up to 2.8A, added a OTC cap, took the 4C LED and reflowed it onto a SinkPAD. PITA, but I filed/dremel’d out the driver retainer ring so it’s just fits around the 7135’s, allowing it to thread on. It’s an awesome EDC now. This is my mode set:

#define MODE_MOON 5 // min reliable # to use

#define MODE_LOW 20 // (8%) Can comment out to remove mode

#define MODE_MED 80 // (31%) Can comment out to remove mode

#define MODE_TURBO 255 // Max for mode #4 Turbo (Can comment out to remove mode)

#define MODE_TURBO_LOW 100 // (~40%) Level turbo ramps down to if turbo enabled

#define TURBO_TIMEOUT 240 // 120 sec turbo timeout

With these modes with the quick OFF time, using STARTOffTime with a mod so when in Turbo Low – one click restores Turbo, the nice feel switch, warm 4C (it appears to be warmer, more like a 5B1), and paired with a Pana BD @3200 mAh cell it’s just plain awesome… Smile

At 2.8A, a S2+, like any 18650 tube light, gets hot quick. A knock-down to 40% after 2 mins seems bout right.

What is the quick mod to restore turbo?

Newb

Tom E
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This is the updated ISR (Interrupt Service Routine) code I use. Format is fugly, but hope readable. Comments mark the changes. I think once you go into Turbo low, 1 simple click will restore Turbo - this is the way I think it should work - my opinion I guess? Smile

/************************************************************************************
 ************************************************************************************/
ISR(WDT_vect) {
 static uint8_t ticks = 0;
 if (ticks < 255) ticks++;
 // If you want more than 255 for longer turbo timeouts
 //static uint16_t ticks = 0;
 //if (ticks < 60000) ticks++;
 
#ifdef MODE_TURBO 
 if (ticks >= TURBO_TIMEOUT && mode_idx == (mode_cnt - 1) && PWM_LVL > MODE_TURBO_LOW) {
 #ifdef TURBO_RAMP_DOWN
  set_output(PWM_LVL - 1);
 #else
  // Turbo mode is always at end
  set_output(MODE_TURBO_LOW);
  
  // TE: Always save previous mode so the next quick click will restore TURBO mode
  store_mode_idx(--mode_idx);

  // TE: Remove this original code
  //if (MODE_TURBO_LOW <= modes[mode_idx-1]) {
   // Dropped at or below the previous mode, so set it to the stored mode
   // Kept this as it was the same functionality as before.  For the TURBO_RAMP_DOWN feature
   // it doesn't do this logic because I don't know what makes the most sense
  // store_mode_idx(--mode_idx);
  //}
 #endif
 }
#endif

}

*** Note:

There may be an inadvertent side effect of this... Thinking if you don't restore Turbo on a quick click, the saved mode is medium (1 less than turbo) , not Turbo, but I don't mind this functionality, though saved turbo makes better sense.

xxxkahunaxxx
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newb here, first post…
trying to buy on fastech and noticing several versions, all kinda seeming the same but I noticed different tail cap current numbers.
what does this mean?
one was

1050 ma http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002364/2060915-convoy-s2-1-cree-xm-...

another was

2800 ma http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002364/2060912-convoy-s2-1-cree-xm-...

everything else seemed the same…

is one better?
which should i buy?

thanks in advance

tristanxoxo
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xxxkahunaxxx wrote:
newb here, first post…
trying to buy on fastech and noticing several versions, all kinda seeming the same but I noticed different tail cap current numbers.
what does this mean?
one was

1050 ma http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002364/2060915-convoy-s2-1-cree-xm-...

another was

2800 ma http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002364/2060912-convoy-s2-1-cree-xm-...

everything else seemed the same…

is one better?
which should i buy?

thanks in advance

The higher the current (ma number), the brighter it will be. I suggest buying these from the Convoy directly. I don’t know Simon’s email, but he goes by “convoy-flashlight” here.

Deputydave
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Very nice review! Smile

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Halo...
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tristanxoxo wrote:
I suggest buying these from the Convoy directly. I don’t know Simon’s email, but he goes by “convoy-flashlight” here.

1+

Simon’s thread on the red convoy is here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36304 There is a link to the light in his aliexpress store. Aliexpress does not take paypal but Simon will accept paypal orders by email. Ask him for his email if you don’t see it (he has posted his email in other threads at least).

xxxkahunaxxx
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Halo… wrote:
tristanxoxo wrote:
I suggest buying these from the Convoy directly. I don’t know Simon’s email, but he goes by “convoy-flashlight” here.

1+

Simon’s thread on the red convoy is here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36304 There is a link to the light in his aliexpress store. Aliexpress does not take paypal but Simon will accept paypal orders by email. Ask him for his email if you don’t see it (he has posted his email in other threads at least).

Thanks…

i contacted Simon and ordered one from his Aliexpress store…he was kind enough to explain the difference in output of the different drivers, and answer some newb questions.
He also sent me the link to buy it…

I appreciate the help being directed to the best source to make my purchase…
Happy to have found this site!

tristanxoxo
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xxxkahunaxxx wrote:
Halo… wrote:
tristanxoxo wrote:
I suggest buying these from the Convoy directly. I don’t know Simon’s email, but he goes by “convoy-flashlight” here.

1+

Simon’s thread on the red convoy is here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36304 There is a link to the light in his aliexpress store. Aliexpress does not take paypal but Simon will accept paypal orders by email. Ask him for his email if you don’t see it (he has posted his email in other threads at least).

Thanks…

i contacted Simon and ordered one from his Aliexpress store…he was kind enough to explain the difference in output of the different drivers, and answer some newb questions.
He also sent me the link to buy it…

I appreciate the help being directed to the best source to make my purchase…
Happy to have found this site!

Congrats…I’m sure it won’t be your last purchase from Simon!

xxxkahunaxxx
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i am sure of it!
always nice to know you’re dealing direct with a reliable seller!

ps…the above link to Simons thread gives me a “page not found” error

Cigaras
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Could someone share more details on mode memory? FastTech says that it is not a normal memory but the crappy next mode memory, is it true?

Also could someone share Simons aliexpress store link?

Iker
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If you switch it off and wait about 1.5-2s before switching it on again, it will keep last mode. If you do halfswitch or switch off/on without pauses, goes to next mode.

Simon’s store is this

Gunga
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Just wanted to bump this. So no issues with the holes in the tailcap being too big for the clip? I’m getting the same clip for an s2+ 18350. Want to make sure it works.

Antenne
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The Convoy clips fit well, of course one can use some Loctide on the screws to secure them against loosing. I think they are rather week (thin) and need work to clear the sharp edges.

Chicken Drumstick
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Yep the clips fit perfectly. Loctite is needed on the screws though. And they are a bit fiddly to fit.

Clip itself is ok. Good length, but a little weak and bends too easily. Certainly not the worst I’ve used, but a reasonable way off the best too.

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Thanks for the feed back! I have both this version of the clip and the newer stonewashed steel one. The newer one seems stiffer and stronger, but I need to verify this to be sure. It looks better too but comes with Philips head screws instead of hex screws, so that is a drawback.

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I just got mine today. it is supposed to be a xm-l2 u2 1a cw
but.. it is the warmest tint light that I have. I figure it cant really be 1a. I don’t really care as I think the light is a bargain.
my question is? (yes I know I should already know this) is there a way to tell what tint the led is by looking at it? thanks.

Tom E
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Neutrals and warms will light up orange under a UV light, while cool whites stay pretty much unchanged - yellow. I've been trying to figure out if the shade of orange could differentiate them at a finer level, but just can't see a pattern. Think the heavier warms show different.

Here's some 4C's and a stock cool white XML under a UV (actually the UV LED Richard sells in a S2+ shorty host). Notice the 4C's glow:

bladesmith3
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that looks cool. you said that Neutrals and warms will light up orange under a UV light. the ones in your pic are off but I can see a difference. so? do the tints really look different if lit in say a room with a blacklight?

Tom E
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Dunno, sorry. This is one definite way to tell a LED is a neutral/warm vs. cool white - that's all. Not sure bout black lights - think they are the same as UV, dunno. I compared the beams of lots of various cool/neutral/warm tints in flashlights side by side, so I can spot it usually, but you have to be careful - high currents cause tint shifts, and PWM's for lo/med modes don't help - it still tint shifts the same as Hi. Also zoomies in flood mode seem soo different from reflector light beam tint - hard to tell the same tint is in both lights when comparing, but you can definitely tell neutral from warm from cool in zoom floods.

Did you check if the dome is in tact? I've had domes loosen and it shifts to the warm/yellow tints. If you got your light from FastTech - no surprise, but from Simon or Richard, I'd expect better.

btw, how do you like the switch?

bladesmith3
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the dome is intact. the switch does feel like a piston. better then rubber and WAY better then the titanium switches on the other brand’s switch. ( I probable shouldn’t mention the brand name. people get crazy if you don’t like some makers product. but I am sure you know the switch I am talking about. LOL)

Gunga
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I think it rhythms with fun day han

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LOL gunga is a really bright guy.

Gunga wrote:
I think it rhythms with fun day han
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Any chances to get the runtimes on those?

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