Triple not working - anyone spot check my setup?

Got a triple XP-G2 from Int’l Outdoor.

And I’m using this driver:
http://www.lck-led.com/24mm-3000ma-driver-modes-p-936.html

Running it in a 2D Mag with 2x26650.

I think I’m meant to be running it as a series setup, although I find the info on the Lck-led site very hard to read.

Following Int’l Outdoors website:

I removed the jumpers and soldered the wires (what does the exclamation mark on the right hand LED pad mean??)

This is what it looks like:

It doesn’t light up. I can measure 7.6-7.7v at the wires on the star. Have I just wired this up wrong, or is something else up?

First what you want to do? LEDs in series? You removing the jumpers now have nothing correct neither parallel neither series.

With no jumpers it is automatically in Series for the three outside leds. 3 in series, so you are correct. It is in series, but just make sure you reflowed the leds on the right way. The led with the asterisk has to be turned one way for series, or the other way for parallel. It's a very complicated way of doing things, at least to me it is.

For series the LEDs are not reflowed correctly the one on the right is it soldered for parallel. I assume that is because the board was bought with jumpers and LED soldered for parallel.

Wow, that is a complex, confusing set up. Nice options but a bit like a puzzle.

Quite simple if you understand circuits and polarity.

Thanks for the reply. So what needs to be done is the right hand led needs removing, turning round and re-flowing?

If that’s the case that’s a real bugger. I bought the board as it (with the jumpers and leds already on it). And the Int’l Outdoor site doesn’t say anything about reflowing leds.

I don’t have any way to reflow a led. My soldering iron isn’t upto the task and I don’t have anything else to use.

If you’re wanting series the bottom right emitter is facing the wrong direction. Positive should be on the right on that one for series.

Edit: You have the emitters on the star as parallel, if you use the jumpers it should work… looking at the specs on that driver I don’t see any mention of being able to boost current to handle the nearly 10V requirement of 3 series from the 8.4V max of 2 cells. I could be wrong though, not familiar with that driver. It will definitely work in parallel, just not sure about series. Hook up your jumpers and you should be fine.

But when you buy it pre-mounted it is. And the web page only mentions this:

http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xp32-mcpcb-cree-xpg2-s3-3c-leds-p-853.html

“LEDs already set in parallel configuration, for other configuration please look at the graphic”

To which it is only obvious about the jumpers. If I known I was needing to reflow LED’s I’d not have bought it, or any of the other things for the build (host, optics, driver). And if I had the ability to re-flow Leds I wouldn’t haver bought this anyhow as I’d want a different tint bin to the offered one.

I usually support Hank and Int’l Outdoor, but not all that impressed with this item as the moment.

You bought an item with LEDs set in parallel but made an wrong prejudgment, not sure why you should feel bad about Hank. At least you could have asked before purchase.

Actually it says it some typical thing for these FL drivers, says it is buck then says it is boost. Apparently it is boosting

Automatically buck: single lithium or double-lithium can promote 3-4XML boost,3-4 Lithium constant current constant temperature driven,Is reduced, the process is automatically switched No operator

No, I bought what looks to be something you only need to change jumpers to change from parallel to the other. There is no info on that webpage that CLEARLY says otherwise. So please don’t be a condescending dick about.

And no I’m not happy, because I have something I can’t currently use and don’t really have the tools or the ability to rectify. If it was obvious from the web listing I’d simply have bought something else and not pissed good money away.

Bad language mister, just posting my opinion and it still remains the same.

Yes bad language, for which I apologise, but your comment was rather insulting too. Just a little cheesed off, as the image I posted and is on the webpage, is insufficient. In the UK Trading Standards would have a field day.

Chicken Drumstick if u want to try this go in your kitchen and grab a little frying pan and lay the copper board flat and turn on your stove like your going to cook something lol, grab your tweezers and watch the leds and solder under the leds to heat up, turn the heat all the way down and pool the led off and then the copper board, flip around the led u pooled off put it back in the pan and wait till u see the solder melt and your done :)

do it if your old enough lol

I accidentally overheated a board while struggling to get the wires soldered onto it, the LED slid sideways and came off.

D’oh.

Eventually I cleaned everything off, looked at another emitter to make sure which way was up, laid the board on top of a something or other
C-shaped like a bit of split copper pipe with a flat end
figuring the heat would belong right under the emitter but would spread out, and the C-shaped bit of metal might protect the rest of the board.

Stuck the soldering iron underneath where the emitter ought to be
Nudged the emitter gently to exactly where it ought to be
Kept the heat on
It sort of wiggled and laid down flat.

I pulled the heat off and stared at it for a few seconds wondering if the solder had turned solid yet.

Realized it had.

Lifted the star away with pliers and set it on a flat piece of metal.
And started blowing on the thing like crazy for a while to cool it off.

Then I more carefully cleaned off the wire positions and soldered them and tried it.

Lit right up.

You’d be surprised. Heck, you might be astonished.

PS — it’d have been smarter to do this on a throwaway emitter and board from my trash bin.
But I always figured I’d never get it right the first time and wasn’t ready for the long painful learning curve.

Well, well …

The board is pretty clearly labeled. S~~, S+ and P+, P~~ with an exclamation to highlight it. This sort of gerrymandering is necessary with series/parallel combo boards. All you need to reflow is a hot plate or cooktop and the lid from a tin can or a pan. Either that or sever the traces to isolate that led and add wire jumpers to power it.

Thanks for the suggestion. But I have an induction hob and my girlfriend would kill me I used a frying pan (non stick) for this kind of thing.

Ok, have watched a couple of YouTube vids and gave it a go with the soldering iron.

Led came off, rotated it and it appears to be soldered back on. However it still doesn’t work.

I measure 7.8’ish volts coming from the driver on the ± wires on the star.

You have tinned the solder pads of the jumpers but not been bridged. Add more solder to connect the pads.