ALL THINGS BUDGET KNIVES

I read the report and watched videos of the investigation, just what I’ve come to expect from big business, anything to increase the bottom line for their shareholders.
I am a retired joiner/machinist so know a bit about working with timber. First thing I do is go to a wood toxicity guide A lot of the irritants can be personal, I can work with most woods without any effect but one of my favourite woods, ash, can close my throat in an hour or so, when I started you didn’t have masks and most of the safety equipment you see now so you quickly got to know which wood made you ill.
I’m looking forward to the plastics, G10, Micarta, Kirinite and Corian. a couple of £ a week into the fund gets me most tooling and I got a drill press for my 60th birthday. Some cheap knife blanks for practice and a lot of watching YouTube vids, onwards and upwards is the way.

My report in Post 212 has an inaccuracy regarding the scales. They appeared to be some type of plastic to me from the outside, but I pulled one today and it is clearly aluminum.

Now I'm thinking instead of replacing them, I will strip and anodize them. Really like the color, but I want to make the handle a little less slippery. Thay way I get to keep the great lines and the carbon fiber looking insert (Which is grippy).

EDIT added to Post 212.

For those interested in making their own knives (or close to it) seller urknifesource has some discontinued Marbles Trailmaker bowie blades that are just looking for a hilt to be fitted.

Some Mora blanks as well. Good carbon steel but not full tang. :slight_smile:

Anyone know anything about this knife or brand? Never heard of “SF” knives. Tried web search but can’t find any info on SF knives.
I like the G10 squares pattern, the blade shape and stone wash finish.

(click photos for link)

Also an interesting clip style:

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The G10 pattern reminds me of this smaller knife by SRM, the 7056 multi-function:

I also like this SRM 7056 version with grooved g10 “Maze” pattern:

I also like the blade flipper on the 7056 models.

Rick Hinderer would find that clip quite familiar too! :wink:

That looks like a decent knife. Only thing I’d be faulting it on would be the screws used in the construction, for the near $23 I’d expect them to be countersunk into the G10 a bit more. They look like the heads are on the surface - nit picking. At least the pivot is an easily adjustable screw not a proprietary type.
Sometimes you just have to go for it, you could have a good knife.

I took a chance once on an Omuda 3922, never heard of them before but the knife turned out to be one of the nicest slip-joints that I have.

I’ve bought from KnifeBase a couple of times before, no problems.

EDIT………… I’ve just noticed that there are two different knives used in the photos, the blade in the top two photos has no markings and the rest do. Also the steel in the description is 7Cr17MoV in the photo that beam0 and isti use there is a clear Sandvik marking on the blade with a steel type that I can’t make out but definitely a Sandvik steel.
Both should be O.K. steel.

FastTech have the SanRenMu M1 back in stock for $12.77, very good price, I paid nearly $20 each for two from an online vendor last year, they were very hard to find cheaper.


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In order L to R
EL-01AB
EL-01KH
EL-01BA
EL-01GY
EL-01B
EL-01O?
EL-01A
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In order L to R
EL-01D
Boker Magnum A-Stan
RUI Energy Series
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Difference between two Enlan EL-01Ds - Rosewood Scales. The one above has been kept in its original packing and given one coat of Renaissance Wax, so has the one underneath but this one has been a daily user.
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I like the EL01 really much, but sold the versions, which I don't use (KH, GY, never bought BA and D - wood isn't my favorite handle material). The orange is on the way.

About the M1: Thank you for the information. Now I have to ask myself - do I need the M1 (have the 9051 black/green), maybe I will get a the black white instead of the M1 (but this have the SRM logo [which looks better] on the blade an not the blue line letters). I have the SRM 9055 in blue/black and white/black and like the black white with the brown backspacer. The 9051 with black white handle looks also really good. Maybe I will order both - I have to think about it.

Uhm…Steve, something tell me that you like EL01…maybe I’m wrong…I think you like a bit, is’n’it? :bigsmile:


The finish the M1 has on the scales is smoother, a better “dress” knife I think.
The rounded spine on the blade and the lack of a contrasting back-spacer pushes in favour of the M1/9051 for me, I’m not keen on the 9055 having the liners overhanging the scales either. Not that the 9055 is a bad knife, it isn’t, it’s just design choices.

All this is supposing the M1 is identical to the older one, the design on the blade will probably match the blue line logo rather than the SRM logo.

I like the EL-01 a lot! :wink:
A classic design for an inexpensive hard use folder. Good looking and plenty of choice in colour.

Throw in a washer and pivot screw swap, Lazy Lizard Gear .

And you have a knife that will last well and outperform a lot of knives that cost many times the price.

Yes, the el01 is one of the best and for a good price cheaper than most of ganzos. I do not know why other brands do not copy the el01 in the way of flipper, thick liner, or the incredible fat tip. The long of the blade, longer than normal is a plus for me too. It is hard to get a big folder with flipper, i think i only have the inron my803 being big and with flipper, and the el01 of course.

One to avoid for so many reasons. :bigsmile:
Authentic Christeeve Stainless Steel Folding Knife w/ Lanyard

Or Sebenza - the brown box model.

For a few Dollars more you can get a much better clone or for a few dollars less an honest SanRenMu or Enlan.

It needs a metal bolster. G10 scales may support the pivot well, but wood, at least wood that floats in water, does not.

No need for bolsters, there is a 2.5mm thick liner below the scales on each side, same on the wood and G10. More than enough to hold the blade securely.

I don’t think strong materials justify a weak design. The liners are much closer together than bolsters would be and therefore see more force for a given amount of torque between the blade and handle. Also, isn’t the liner cut on one side for the locking?

Yes it is, the liners are skeletonised for lightness as well and lose nothing in strength for that.

I don’t use mine anywhere near as hard as that so I think they’ll be fine.

Even with bolsters they attach to the liners at some point so the force just gets transferred to the weakest point.

I think I may have seen knives with the bolster and liner the same piece, I don’t remember where. That would be expensive, because stainless is hard to machine.