Kronos opened and reinforced the communications with Neal
This transpired into much more than I thought or imagined because of the people mentioned. Their time and efforts are what made this possible. I am/was just a middle man.
Please tell me the dimensions on the need spacer, so i can figure out. If this is something that i could be try and build myself, maybe by stacking mcpcbs or reflowed copper plates together, or if i need to wait for a GB for the needed spacer, because it is an tricky shape to it.
cajampa, I think it’d be pretty easy to use a couple of extra copper mcpcb’s or a disc if you have those available. A 16mm in the pocket, then stack 20’s on top of that to get the right height…probably 2 without actually measuring it out. Then there’d be more copper under the triple to sponge up the heat.
Realistically, you’re not gonna run a triple very long in this light as it will get hot fast. But the small tube shape makes it very easy to carry and a triple would be a huge flood of light from this host that overall wouldn’t be/isn’t much larger than the cell that powers it. I’ve got one of the Convoy tube lights that ComfyChair modded for Richard and it’s a potent little number to be sure! I like that it slips easily into a camera bag or almost anywhere.
The XP-G2’s will get hot as well as they’ll be more overdriven. Remember that they’re rated at 1.5A. A good triple with XP-G2’s will easily pull much more than 4.5A, typically 9A or more. So the heat is still there from the overdrive thing.
Drive 3 XP-L at 9A and you’re within specs, making less heat and far more lumens.
I guess i will have to wait for more nice tint emitters to show up in XP-L (we snagged up the last few available from Richard but those i have already plans for), and maybe take it easy with the low resistance mods, maybe even do some high resistance mods to keep the amp in check if needed on the triple XP-L.
Ok, a more thorough exam… Krono wanted me to go ahead and bypass the tail pcb for him, so I put a 22 ga wire through the board to help keep it reliable and solid. Same 22 ga on the top end. They’ve already got 22 ga on the driver as it turns out, so I left that alone.
So what I’ve done to Krono’s light is put a copper Noctigon under the factory emitter, and add 2 little short pieces of 22 ga wire for the current to run through (the bypasses). Here’s the results…
0.01A at 00.93 lumens
0.03A at 13.97 lumens
0.15A at 62.45 lumens
0.38A at 191.48 lumens
1.48A at 439.19 lumens
2.96A at 852.15 lumens
5.65A at 1490.4 lumens with a 30 second run showing 1418 lumens.
I started with amp readings, then measured the lower outputs first…. so the cell wasn’t fresh full hot for the max Turbo readings. So these numbers are pretty real world like you’d see in normal use. The 30 second run in the light box had the head pretty warm, almost hot, but still it didn’t drop all that much, what, 72 lumens? So not shabby at all!
With 5 of these samples in hand, I am seeing some different numbers on the mosfets and even one completely different set-up (which we knew about) The oddball one uses 2 smaller mosfets and while it pulls more current it doesn’t make as many lumens…. not as efficient so it won’t be our choice at all. There is some variance between the different samples, but it’s slight and really insignificant. Best as I can tell, with limited actual run time clocked, these look pretty much good to go. Get the copper in there on the top and call it the best group buy ever.