+ 1x cw
So, 1x nw and 1x cw for me, pls.
I have a feeling more than a thousand of these little lights will sell.
Powered by BLF ! 
Ok, a more thorough exam… Krono wanted me to go ahead and bypass the tail pcb for him, so I put a 22 ga wire through the board to help keep it reliable and solid. Same 22 ga on the top end. They’ve already got 22 ga on the driver as it turns out, so I left that alone.
So what I’ve done to Krono’s light is put a copper Noctigon under the factory emitter, and add 2 little short pieces of 22 ga wire for the current to run through (the bypasses). Here’s the results…
0.01A at 00.93 lumens
0.03A at 13.97 lumens
0.15A at 62.45 lumens
0.38A at 191.48 lumens
1.48A at 439.19 lumens
2.96A at 852.15 lumens
5.65A at 1490.4 lumens with a 30 second run showing 1418 lumens.
I started with amp readings, then measured the lower outputs first…. so the cell wasn’t fresh full hot for the max Turbo readings. So these numbers are pretty real world like you’d see in normal use. The 30 second run in the light box had the head pretty warm, almost hot, but still it didn’t drop all that much, what, 72 lumens? So not shabby at all!
With 5 of these samples in hand, I am seeing some different numbers on the mosfets and even one completely different set-up (which we knew about) The oddball one uses 2 smaller mosfets and while it pulls more current it doesn’t make as many lumens…. not as efficient so it won’t be our choice at all. There is some variance between the different samples, but it’s slight and really insignificant. Best as I can tell, with limited actual run time clocked, these look pretty much good to go. Get the copper in there on the top and call it the best group buy ever. 
cajampa, put a 3200mA Panasonic BD in the triple… let it be the resistance, it should do some 6-7A and have the best run time to boot.
Edited my miscue on the capacity of the BD.
Dang! I’m gonna have to be the official poster boy for Eagle Eye! lol
I LOVE their little lights! With 8 hot rodded X6’s ranging from 1800 lumens (single XM-L2) to 5500 lumens (single XHP-70) and now this little beastie, I have far more Eagle Eye lights than any other brand. Worthy, if you ask me. And I have 2 more X6’s to build to complete my top 10 EDC collection.
[qote=DBCstm]Ok, a more thorough exam... Krono wanted me to go ahead and bypass the tail pcb for him, so I put a 22 ga wire through the board to help keep it reliable and solid. Same 22 ga on the top end. They've already got 22 ga on the driver as it turns out, so I left that alone. So what I've done to Krono's light is put a copper Noctigon under the factory emitter, and add 2 little short pieces of 22 ga wire for the current to run through (the bypasses). Here's the results... 0.01A at 00.93 lumens 0.03A at 13.97 lumens 0.15A at 62.45 lumens 0.38A at 191.48 lumens 1.48A at 439.19 lumens 2.96A at 852.15 lumens 5.65A at 1490.4 lumens with a 30 second run showing 1418 lumens. I started with amp readings, then measured the lower outputs first.... so the cell wasn't fresh full hot for the max Turbo readings. So these numbers are pretty real world like you'd see in normal use. The 30 second run in the light box had the head pretty warm, almost hot, but still it didn't drop all that much, what, 72 lumens? So not shabby at all! :) With 5 of these samples in hand, I am seeing some different numbers on the mosfets and even one completely different set-up (which we knew about) The oddball one uses 2 smaller mosfets and while it pulls more current it doesn't make as many lumens.... not as efficient so it won't be our choice at all. There is some variance between the different samples, but it's slight and really insignificant. Best as I can tell, with limited actual run time clocked, these look pretty much good to go. Get the copper in there on the top and call it the best group buy ever. ;) [/quote]
just some copper boards and this will be the BLF epic edition.
the final sold version will have a dtp copper MCPCB - right?
Dale - some Q's:
- from those 7 modes listed above, looks like they are using a 380 mA 7135, not a 350 mA - think that's correct? Actually it's a pretty good idea - I should build my DD+1's that way from now on.
- Since you think you got a neutral tint, maybe 3C, do you see the tint shift going from mode 4 (.38A) to mode 5?
- since you are hitting close to 6A, suppose they are not using those "new" lower max amp XM-L2's. Every XM-L2 T6 4C I've gotten seems to go to 6.5A with no problem.
- I just built a hot setup DD+1 ZY-T11 clone (UCL lens, 20 AWG LED wires, + direct from cell to LED, 20 AWG bypass's, etc.) with RMM's XM-L2 U4 1C and it max's out at about 5.12A, though still delivers about 1,700 lumens @30 secs. Wondering do you think a CW in this A6 will also have the limited high amps? Have you tested a CW? They may still be using U2 1A's, and if so, may still be high amp capable.
Looks like the timing works out so I’ll be able to test and update it as soon as I receive it.
DBCstm, thanks for the levels for each mode. It looks like the middle modes may be running a tad bit off spec, but that’s easy enough to recalibrate. The visual difference (cube-root model) between each of the modes ranges from 1.43 to 1.94 instead of being a constant value for each, so I’ll see what I can do to adjust that.
Driver Pic from post #1623 from Dale...
Only things different is the resistors "01C" labeled, if I have that correct (Dale mentioned the FET is different as well). They appear to be connected to the FET and 7135 inputs - tied to ground. Probably to stabilize the signal transitions. I know with my DD+1 driver builds using the SIR800 FET, I get little blinks on transitioning between the 7135 and FET. It also occurs on the DD+1's when just turning an e-switch light ON where it goes to moon initially - you see an intermittently occurring brighter flash for a sec before moon kicks in. Doesn't happen every time. I tried a 100K resistor on the FET input and it helped a little - probably needs a lower resistor...
Just looked it up - a 01C is a 10K, so 10K probably eliminates the flicker. These Eagle Eye guys seem to know their driver designs!
Great Job One and All!!
Ohh - I'm not in on this GB because I'm not a fan of this tube light styling, and can build my own DD+1's anyway, but very interested in how this converison of one of our own driver/firmware combos gets to manufactured in China -- hope this works out, I'm cheering on the sidelines... 
Hi,
Sing me up for 1 N W
Thanks
No, the tint shift shouldn’t be noticeable. I set it up to mix both tints in the middle modes so it’ll gradually transition from the 7135 tint to the FET tint as you get brighter.
Before I set it up that way, the tint shift was very noticeable. Here’s a short video showing how it looked when both channels were set to the same lumen level. The other light here is a Nichia 219b triple, for reference.
Ahh - ok, so the 0.38A mode then isn't the full 7135, then it's not a 380 mA chip - ok... Dunno your 7 mod values off hand - ok, I'll check out your latest code. Thanks!
Yeah that is a good idea, strange i didn’t think about that, i like to build lights without driver, and then the battery is the driver
I wish i had snagged up some of those now gone 20mm quad board 
@Tom, Is there really any performance to gain in light output, by using a less efficient U2/T6 XM-L2? Isn’t 1700 lumens at 30 second very good performance, are you saying, that the U2/T6 would output more lumens at 30 seconds?
Sorry, I'm just stating what I measured... You have a higher bin, cooler LED (U4 1C) running at lower amps and it will outperform a T6 4C that runs at higher amps. The step up in bins compensates for it's lower max amps. In the XM-L2 family, neutrals and warms are still in lower bins than the best cool whites, but unfortunately, the new "revision" or new "batch" of XM-L2 LED's from CREE can't be pushed as hard as the older ones - that's why the U3's and U4's are constrained somewhat, and possibly the warms and neutrals in the T6 and below levels, though I haven't see the warms or neutrals suffer yet.
To further confuse (everyone?), our light meters measure cooler whites higher than neutrals or warms, from what I understand (djozz proved that). So, my meaurements are all "ballpark" #'s, but Dale's and my measurements compare well because we have the same setups . I could, actually do some calibration/compensation of my measured #'s based on tint, but I don't really want to get into that -- I have nothing "real" to compare to, or calibrate against, accept what djozz published, but too many variables... 
I can only imagine they will start selling this driver in other lights as well, especially if it's not "the BLF driver" but something that looks like it..
And maybe they'll even copy the firmware, but make it different enough to not be called "the blf TK firmware".