07/07/15 Finished Handmade CXA3590 - Lum5-90 light build - Beam shots are in Post #1

OL, the best of luck with this build but even more luck with the search for a new job.

This build looks like it will really light the way!

Another OL monster in progress and it's going to be more powerful then ever. Love it.

Every time i see a new flashlight build by OL a popcorn comes to my mind

About this boost converter does it give constant current ? i had used converter like it called qskj also bought it from aliexpress and it was working perfectly

LEDs came in today. Photo in the OP. Hopefully I will have some testing done this week-end.

Justin, I didn’t know until I was looking at it on the PCT the other day: this CXA3590 takes over 42V to reach its highest rated current draw! But, it starts at ~35V on the bottom end. That is a HUGE jump! If a person wanted to, they could use 10X 18650 or 26650 cells with a DD/FET driver (assuming the driver can handle up to ~42V input/output) to power one of these. I know that’s not what you’re doing with this light, but maybe the other CXA3590 could be powered this way?

I think this will be a monster flood light at 10k lumens.

Will you include a (hidden) self-destruct feature that makes the light short the battery pack and explode? Like a last ditch grenade.

idk about you with that panasonic but if I were you I would go with RC lipo packs for helicopter

something like this?

Looking forward to your results :slight_smile:

I just watched your second video…freakin’ awesome. I bet it was hot, you’ve got excellent build skills.

I just added that video to the OP. Testing is done guys.

45 volts @4.25 amps. Everything works!

Still a long ways to go before beam shots.

Epic.

We have lift of.

You definitely need to add a fan… my salad bowl light from your earlier build contest has similar drive levels (and a much bigger heatsink area). Without the fan, it will melt into a slag heap in short order. The speed of the fan on mine is temperature controlled via a temp sensor epoxied to the corner of the Bridgelux “chip”.

I have played with adding a remote drive level pot to those DC-DC converters. It does not work very well. At certain settings the output goes unstable.

Holy cow, how did I not see this for a week.

Drinking will do that to you.

Wow, just wow! Speechless I am. :open_mouth:

Nice!!watching this with interest!

(+1 for a fan btw)

This will be sweet. Not just the aluminum construction but have never seen one of those emitters in action.

Your converter looked oddly familiar... and it's the exact same kind that I've been abusing in a flooder project. Just IMO it felt easier to adjust using only the current limit pot by having the open circuit voltage set a few volts higher than necessary, and never touching the voltage trim again. This would of course be risky if you were to use an outside knob to later adjust the current during operation. In theory the voltage adjustment trim(that would not need access from the outside) is perfect to set the upper limit after the maximum usable current has been determined... but I don't know how reliable that is during power up if the current happens to be set too high(afraid of momentary overload and catastrophic failure).

Keeping the input voltage close to the output must be good for efficiency, but might limit your EDC's moonlight mode possibilities. Won't the emitter dimly light up in direct drive with that pack, so shouldn't the boost converter just "fall out of regulation" at some point making a lower limit? Haven't really tried that either(I'm working with lower input voltage). Looking at your video it seems you might have found out, but I failed to notice in case it was there.

Pure awesome. Looking forward to the end result.

The voltage will be adjusted and set. There will only be access to trim the amperage. There will be no moonlight mode. Bright as hell and then a little less bright, but still bright as hell. Moonlight is for wusses who only have 5000 lumen or less lights.

Just playin. I don't really intend on modes at all, just a way to back off of full amperage. The on/off switch in line with the battery pack output, will completely shut off the light.

I am taking that advice. A fan is on the way and I will put it in. I don't think it will do a lot, since I really can't cut fins in the bottom of the heat sink, but it will be there 92mmx92mmx38mm deep and 48v.