Mine was a bit over 2A when I received it, now 1.7-1.8A with the same batteries. (Edit: driver is the red one without the double row of holes in the central island). Planning to install the KD 2.8A driver.
And yes, the bezel ring on mine is darker then the other parts, could be said two-tone. From eBay.
There are two measurements , current and output ...
So the obvious variable is that measured current does not match measured output ..
The explanation for that could be as simple as not being able to accurately measure current ...
Several variables for that ...
1/ MM adds resistance [ Ive come across this before ]
2/ Point of measurement , depending on where the contacts are placed from the MM , will give different readings , this depends very much on the light itself ...
I have measured - with this light - with the same battery - from 1.8A to 2.23A , thats a 400mAh variation with the same battery ...
My fault perhaps for not mentioning how difficult it can be sometimes to get a true and accurate current reading ...
I personally trust the light box and ceiling bounce more than the current reading ...
+ The tailcap will make much better contact than the MM probes , so there you go , take it for what you will .. [ + there are even more variables to consider if you really want to get into it ]
damn. i am a poor student but after seeing this i had to buy it (on ebay for $36). Hopefully it can out throw my ultrafire uf-980L which is definitely my brightest light (out throws my fenix tk35).....
Can anyone tell me if this will out throw my UF-980L?
This is a forward clickly. You have half press it for the desired mode. If it's on high when you fist press it, to get low you have to press it twice more and then click it fully.