Thanks. It was when writing this firmware I really took a liking to the dual switch approach, hence my thread asking for them. I’ve got an idea on how to use this seamless level selection on a 17mm driver with 8 x AMC7135s and a FET, and put it into a small triple XP-L HI. This is why I was interested in yours I’ve got an idea that’s a little different than yours but should work, the driver boards are designed and ordered.
Been thinking about this a little. Problem I’m currently having is that I always seem to have the next version on order before really finishing the existing version. Just when I think I can’t cramp anymore functionality in I come up with some must have feature that gets me all crazy. Like this seamless level thingy, once I started liking it I couldn’t stop myself and now have new driver boards for my triple M6, headlight project, 17 and 20mm drivers, all waiting for new firmware… the frenzy never ends.
Not quite ready to share this yet. Also, the MCU on it is the 12 pin ATtiny84, and I’m not quite ready to share that firmware either. Depending on what features you want I might be able to offer you one, depending on what functionality you want. I always get three boards from OSH Park and therefore have a few of each version left over . There is however someone waiting in line (who has been waiting for a long time) who gets first choice amongst the boards that I have left.
25mm MCPCB is what I have in mine and fits nicely, it’s the largest that will fit. The solder joints will interfere with the reflector, so they should be as low profile as possible and the reflector needs to be isolated so it doesn’t short the wires.
Do you have a link to the switch you used? I’ve been trying many things, but have yet to work out a good switch housing when adding an eswitch to a light.
Nice work! I have one and have a few ideas about it. The tail switch would break contact between the cells rather than between the host and 2B~~. Leave the existing contact board in the head as is and make a new oval one to fit in the head end of the battery tube with solder bumps on the top (both at 2B+ potential) and copper tabs at the ends to ground the host that get sandwiched between the head and battery tube. On the underside of this board are a B+ and B~~ contact. This way the rotation of the battery tube is irrelevant to polarity.
I’m not sure how I missed this one. Nice work. I’ve been playing with this light myself lately having made a couple with the batteries in series. Is there a link to Oshpark for the switch board?
I would definitely like a copper pill for this one, but the light I have is quite old and I’ve read here that the newer ones have declined in quality. Someone would have to confirm though. If the new ones suck it might be a waste of time making a copper pill for it.
I have actually attempted something very similar. The tail switch I have already breaks contact with the cells, not the host, but earlier I designed plate to sit on top of the cells, and had changed the underside of the driver so rotation wasn’t and issue. However, fixing this plate was too much of a hassle, and as I use this down in dark abandoned mines I want to be able to replace the cells rather easily. I couldn’t get this solution to work smoothly so I switched back to the original design.
Here are my driver boards with the similar design as your suggestion (it was when I was using ATtiny84 for this driver): Edit: The + and - signs on top of the battery plate are incorrect, + is the middle circle, - on the two outer.
Thanks Mike for the switch plate. I concur with the issues of alignment with the batteries to the driver board. I have resorted on my test light screwing the battery board to the battery housing which is a pain changing batteries.
I mean what do you think about led and driver combination for this light. I have read that using mt-g2 requires make pcb place lower cause reflector sits higher on such big led. Driver size and config is also an opened quetion.
This flashlight have at least two good quality clones (ultrafire with serial cells in stock and one more with piggybacked BT receiver for remote control), even if anodize or smth else is not very high quality the host itself is very good designed for heat accomodate and transfer (much better than all SRK clones for example). I can’t imagine how much power it can carry with copper pill.