(sound of round being chambered in my 1911)
BANG!!!
silence.
zach8935 wrote:
Do they just let you go thru the recycle bins or do you have to ask? Only real recycle bin for battery packs round here is best buy
Best Buys are great because they get all kinds of batteries and lots of them. I wouldn't bother asking. Likely to get a no. Better to just do and beg forgiveness if confronted. Most employees probably don't care one way of the other. Just in case one is there that cares, I just go up the bin with a triple layer of plastic grocery bags and act like I'm putting batteries in the bin.
I’ve had many a good foray in the local recycle bin which included a motherlode of 7AA Eneloops and 3 AAAs. I’ve had Tronics, Energizers and Lloytrons and even a smattering of alkalines that were pretty much full. Some of these were no good with low capacity, high SD or not retaining a charge but for us “enthusiasts” this is just the fun of it all.
These days however, I’ve curtailed my forays as there can only be so many times that I can spend dropping off a couple of spent cells in the bins to try and hide my foraging. There’s something so damn tempting about getting something for nothing!
So far I got packs with dead NiCads and some dead alkaline AA's. 
Feeling like Charlie Brown. 
This time brand new still hermetically sealed!
WTF?
146Wh!!!
I know it claims 40v, but I now suspect it will be 10s2p for 42v charged and 36v nominal. Divide 146 by 36 and you get about 4. That means this pack will contain 20, 2A cells.
There they are. 20, Sanyo UR18650RX
2050mAh cells. They were sitting at 2.8v each and I am testing them now.
(It takes a long time to test 20 cells)
I recently found an unused spare laptop battery on the “Please take me” table at work. I now have 6 very good never previously used batteries for my lights!
Damn, dcho. You brave (or maybe a bit crazy). This thing looks like a short challenge with an attitude:
Hey Harvey, If you asked about Judisam we could use the initials HKJ for you. 
Just to be clear for the other folks:
The short version is Hare Krishnas are not buddhists (similure robes) but not similure systems.
End
It was a booby trap, congratulations, booby, you’re trapped! :Sp
I gave the Chant Box to a friend. He. Has. Not. Been. Seen. Since…
The numbers are starting to come in……
So far the first 8 I tested have capacities in the high 1900’s
I got this pack at a Lowes and I’m sure it was Lowes that threw it out, unopened.
There are other parts besides the cells that can be useful from these packs. Here is a pic of the BMS board from this pack. It just happens that is the mate to the header on the 18v Ridgid drill pack battery. I will remove that header and put it aside, someday that will be useful.
I showed my father how I use to get high drain cells before I started buying the latest. One of the 40v packs like in the OP was in there. Quit beat up on the outside, but 2 of the charge-level LED’s light up just like in the OP. My father didn’t have any security bits at home. So I didn’t get to tear it down for him in person. He seemed quite fascinated and excited about the concept. I picture a whole stack for packs waiting for me the next time I visit.
Get the 100 bit set from Harbor Freight and you can open almost anything which is screwed together. A few of those bits I’ve never seen for sale anywhere else and a few of those oddballs proved useful here. Worth the few bucks cost and good for gifting to the budding DIY’ers in the world
Phil
Ima4, tell your Dad there are screws behind some of the labels. On mine I peeled one off and split another with a knife at the seam.
An update on the one I mentioned in the OP. Since them I bought the toolset it goes with and verified that it is a new fully functioning pack. The battery test button included in the pack has a loose connection and sometimes does not work, thereby giving the impression the pack is dead. Probably the reason it was chucked into the bin by HD. There is a silicone dab of goop over those connections so it is not easy to reflow. For the time being I have decided to leave well enough alone and leave it as is.
It is a perfectly functioning pack. 
Thank you SawMaster. I will check out that bit set. Sounds great.
Thanks for the heads up on the hidden screws dcho. My father has one of the Thor X type lights like you modded here that no longer works (dead battery). If the cells are good, thinking of making him a 4S5P pack with balance leads for charging. Then, convert the light to HID. Maybe also rig it so that he can use to also jump start a car. Would need to figure out how to LVP the pack though.
I have converted a couple of old 12v SLA battery halogen into HID with salvage packs. I go 4s4p and have run 35w to 55w balast with 35w bulbs. I deal with torx security screws with a automatic center punch on the pin.They usually break or smash pretty quick YMMV.I use H3 size bulbs and do the balance leads with the hobby charger.
^
Sounds like we think alike. I’ve found 4S gives the best performance with those 55w ballasts. May I ask why you use 35w bulbs instead of 55w?
Thanks for the tips on the center pin willie. Got to give that a try next time that I don’t have my security bits with me.
EDIT: Do you have a LVP solution? I’ve just tried to becareful about usage, but would like to automate the protection. Maybe and Attiny with voltage divider that triggers a normal automotive relay.
My first HID was a Titanium Innovations Mega Illuminator Just scored Titanium Innovations Mega Illuminator $39.99 HID . Member 2100 (guru member) suggested the 55W ballast. The free auto kit I was given was actually a 35W HID china marked 55W. My Mega is still 12V SLA. I did buy a Tractor Supply broken clearance halogen and it was my first conversion. Ordered a 55W from one of the China sources but it proably 45W(?). To monitor voltage I installed an RC lipo pack monitor w/ dip switches to set voltage monitor with an led that I ended up covering with black tape to mute but is still visable.
Bright blue - Full charge
Cyan - Very good
Green - Good
Yellow/Amber - Low warning
Red - Batteries low
Something programable would be great but simple works. More voltage monitor options now that are digital and cheap. My last conversion was a dead battery halogen spotlight for free. Built the first pack from two matched 9 cell laptop packs from the same recycle bin that appeared new. Second one was built from two packs from member 18sixfifty. If there is an advantage to running true 55w bulbs and the price is right please clue me in.
Great idea. Something like this here. That will do good enough for me. Thanks :)
EDIT: Finally broke down that 40V pack I pulled from a HD recycle bin. Every cell, except 4, was at 4.07v. The other 4 were at 4.06v. Before breaking down the pack, the pack voltage tested at a little over 18v. So I expected some bad cells. Did a quick test of internal resistance on a few and they were in the high 20's to low 30's cold. If they are all good, I'll build a 4S4P pack that will be used to power a big HID light. When not in use, the pack will also kept in the trunk for jump starting purposes. The 2 cells missing from the below picture are in the process of being discharge tested.
Date codes are:
K3D3
So March 2013, if I follow sixty545's date code theory correctly.
EDIT2: If you ever come across one of these packs, grab it. Seems the control board in it must have failed or bricked out the pack, because the cells are behaving like they are almost new. So far 4 cells have been discharge tested and all are just under 1.3 Ah (1280 - 1296mAh) and have low internal resistance. I'm expecting the remainder of the cells to behave the same. So I will only report back again if any surprises arise.