Current Mod Finished! Thrunite TN31 Hi.

I’ve got an earlier xml2 version with the 2012 driver(components on both sides), is it safe to just jumper the sense resistor like on the XML versions?

^ Sounds like you have the same one as me. XM-L2, driver looks like LSX's above but I it has some more components on the other side of the spring (I think). Mine works fine jumped. I was glad I looked under the MCPCB though. Mine had a bump in the center of the shelf that restricted contact to the bump and the 2 MCPCB retaining screws. If I would not have fixed that, I would have had serious thermal sag and maybe rapid failure of the LED.

So, apparently bypassing the resistors with some solder provides enough current to make the led work for about 1/10th of a second before making it a fancy paperweight. Just after which, before I figured out the led was shot, I was extremely worried that the driver had gone out! Gonna just go with stacking resistors so I’ll have some known resistance values to go by.

P.S. On a positive note, I now have a nice new 32mm copper xm sized mcpcb…

I recently replaced the xml in my olight m22 with an xpl hi. I really couldnt believe the difference it made. It was pretty floody before now it reaches out pretty far. Definately my new favorate led.

YeaYea, thatkind of what I’m gong for is the distance. II am curious to see how a thrower led will perform in a thrower host. I’m really hoping for over 250k lux. I’ll have to go buy a lux meter to find out numbers for sure once the project is done.

Sorry to hear about the fried emitter. Kind of like a rite of passage. Welcome to modhood!

Guess that means your driver can deliver the juice. I couldn't get my driver to deliver as much current as I wanted it to.

Looking forward to what you come up with here. XP-L Hi in a TN-31 combined with your desire to push the limits sounds like the recipe for a potential beast.

Well, I tried bypassing the resistors again, and… burned out another XM-L2… So, I believe at this point stacking resistors is the way to go! Gonna get my ammeter involved tomorrow and find out just how many amps the driver is pushing out to the emitter. Definitely going to determining the exact current and try to avoid burning out any more LED’s! I really don’t want to burn out my XP-L and have to reflow another one to that mcpcb!

Does anyone know what the component is that sits beside those resistors? I’m wondering if it is a voltage regulator or a diode. The reason I ask is because mine let out the little gray magic smoke. Everyone knows that once you let out the magic smoke, you can’t put it back in!

Can you read what is marked on the top of the chip? I can' t make anything out. Looks like a marker may have been taken to it. Maybe try to clean with some alcohol.

It appears that the 3 pads below it are for a second identical chip, but can't tell for sure because the chip is covering a trace that I suspect connects to the top left pin pad.

I’ll try and get a better picture of it tonight. Right now, it’s expanded in the middle and obscures one of the letters. The best I can make out is AGN (something) and then 17 written vertically. I think it’s a transistor, but I can’t be sure. Maybe a pnp type? I have continuity on the middle and inner pin (on the side with two pins) , and about 1.9k ohms between the middle pin and the outer pin (on the side with two pins). Since it’s already shot, I’m gonna solder in a generic pnp type to see if the circuit works. Worst thing that can happen at this point puts me in the same boat I’m in now.

P.S. I guess I should also note that I have emailed thrunite inquiring as to whether or not I can purchase another driver from them. I doubt they will sell me a loose driver, but I figure asking is worth a shot.

Buy a Acebeam K 40 M driver.

It works in my TN 31 with MT G2.

Any idea where I can buy one? Or do I have to order it through Acebeam? And would it work with my xp-l?

Sorry with XPL it is better to use the orginal driver.

Direkt @ Acebeam

If you need the original TN 31 driver,
feel free to contakt me .

I’m gonna try the transistor on it tonight. If that doesn’t work though, I’ll contact you about that tn31 driver! I’ve also emailed Acebeam about their driver too. Thanks for the help!

Please take a good pic of the traces after you pull the old chip and before you replace it.

Here is the driver with the mystery component removed. It looks like #1 and #3 are connected through the resistors to ground. #2 is connected to the resistor above it then through to the front side where it disappears under the IC. The three pads below it are a copy of the three numbered ones, just turned sideways.

Apparently the driver works without that component, but it gives some odd results. I connected battery pack to the driver and manually activated each sensor with a small magnet. I started off in the moonlight setting, then moved up to the second level, where it was brighter than the first, then the third, where the led was dimmer than the first, then 4 a bit brighter than 3, but not as bright as 2, then 5, but not as bright as 2, then 6, but not as bright as 2, then stand by, then strobe which was about as bright as 2. I know it seems confusing, but that’s the best way I know how to describe the levels! I installed a pnp transistor onto the pads where I removed mystery thing and netted the same results as w/o it.

I’m stumped.

Here my old TN31 driver:

The component beside of the sense resistor is a N channel mosfet…

Ah, that makes sense. I’ll see about getting one, maybe it’ll fix my problem. I’ve gone and ordered a k40l driver as well. If my TN31 driver is truly gone, the K40 should fit nicely in its place. Thank you for that picture, gaston01!

Well, I just noticed that I flowed solder onto one of the wrong pads… Gonna fix that before I get everything put into place! Did I mention that it stinks having to wait for stuff from China?

Finally got the new driver in! Time to get to work on it.

Stacked another resistor on top of the sense resistors.

Soldered the leads to the mcpcb and put it back together with some Arctic Silver 5. I had some difficulty centering the led under the reflector, so what I did was glue the old XM centering ring onto the new mcpcb. I ended up attaching it on an angle, it helped center the led and I think it looks kinda cool!

I put the whole thing back together with no glue this time!! Here are some beam shots of a stock TN3 and the TN31 Hi.



TN31 stock



TN31 Hi


Modded on the left, stock on the right.

I’m not sure of the lux, or the amps to the emiter on high as my dmm only goes to 500mA. I’m gonna get a lux meter here in the near future, so I’ll try to come back with some numbers for you guys. All I know is that this thing is now a BEAST! May have to get it cerakoted soon.

Thanks!!