Keygos KE-5 5 mode XM-L

I put some solder on mine = no difference .

That's a shame. Back to the drawing board (pun intended...lol).

It looks like the Keygos is also a lottery, the driver on mine is the green one not Black.

I Just swapped a Neutral XML on mine and will replace the driver with the KD 2.8A driver. This light is really putting out a tight hot spot equivalent to my X9 @ 1meter. Will be comparing both lights once I replaced the KE5 with the KD driver.

Ok I just charged my Trustfire battery to fully charged and took a tailcap reading. It started at 3.55 amps and tapered down to 3.05 amps and stopped. Maybe mine is just hotter. I don't know but I think this one puts out some lumens.

Doesn't the tailcap reading merely give you to battery draw, not the amount of power the driver is pushing out? Or is it safe to assume these numbers are similar, even without knowing the individual driver's specs?

Looking forward to that!

Which neutral have you bought?

Welcome ballard .

Looking forward to the answer to your question .

Power? As in total watts? Amps x volts = Watts. So yes, you get the current as well as the total power from doing tailcap readings.

I think he wants to know the power to the LED. Not the IN but the OUT from the driver. Driver efficiency plays a role there.

That's exactly what I meant, Hik, and thanks for the warm welcome VFMaddict and Jack.

We can tell that the emitter is correct, and we can clean up the contact points, mod the springs, etc. to deal with resistance throughout the light. So, the great unknown here is what is going on in the driver (I am ignoring, for the moment, losses from the lens and reflector). Since this is an ebay knockoff, I will be curious if I got one that feeds the emitter 2.2 amps or 3.2 amps. Since cheap drivers are often inefficient, the power given from the driver to the LED could be considerably lower than the power given from the battery to the driver. So, theoretically we should be testing the leads into the LED, if possible. However, I am a flashlight and electrical newcomer, and maybe driver inefficiency is relatively insignificant? If the driver is inefficient, and drawing significantly more power from the batteries than feeding to the emitter, we would now be losing lumens without gaining runtime.

Of course, I may just be over thinking this. I am waiting to receive the EK5, and can't stop myself from over analyzing it because I am impatient.

ballard you are over analyzing far too much. Don't be worry be happy

But then I would just be sitting back and patiently waiting for my new gizmo to show up like a responsible adult... No, that won't do at all. Thanks for the advice though. However, I am happy.

One can simply accept that there will be driver loss ..

DD is often not so bad ..

But there are other variables to consider : if you want to get into the nitty gritty ...

the vF of the emitter , V out of the driver = over volting the Emitter may can affect output

if you have a driver that put's out 3.65v and an emitter with a vF of 3.25v

and you have another driver that's 3.5v out and the emitter is 3.55 vF

and both run the same current ... obviously there will be variation ..

With limited test equipment , it becomes difficult to really be 100% ...

Best to accept ball park figures , and be happy ...

Ballard , analyze all you want . We love to get bogged down in minutia here .

XMLRND14E3-T5 14mm Round MCPCB with the T5 Flux bin XM-L 5000k Neutral white led.

I think a couple of importtant things are going on ..For me it's a clear indication of what my battery is doing on the inside ..Without more sophisticated equiptment i am happy to note the degree the battery is falling off..and can easily compare them to other batteries of the same type and others better or worse . For me tailcap readings are telling me lots . It's interesting to watch what a known good battery does vs. a known bad battery and everything inbetween .As far as efficiency or inefficiency that is manafested in two ways ,,Heat and light output ...again with enough lights to compare them to the seat of the pants says lots. The Lmr battery increased the output on the keygo dramaticly ,numbers went up about 25% and rev jims batteries are rock solid ...Curious If anyone knows what battery voltage means when you test the battery like doing a tailcap reading but have the meter set to dc voltage .i was getting a reading of 3.88 as i did it a couple of times by mistake ..and 3.6? on another light i think ,,is this voltage thru the driver ? most of the batteries were 4.10 or higher during testing so the odd numbers caught my attention ..Any clue ?

The green driver is the weaker of the 2. My green one will pull just over 2amps on high compared to my brown one at over 3amps.

I have the light now, and I love it although I haven't had an opportunity to do any readings yet (I have no equipment). The only problem is that I accidentally now have 2 of them, and no friends or family who have any interest in 18650 lights. Am I allowed to sell it here?

Sorry guys I deleted some of my photos I didn't want in my album. I needed more space.

I know that, but I couldn't seem to post anymore pictures at hunt101.com. So I got rid of a few. And you should be thankful that I posted them to begin with.