BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

Yes, Neal's user name/handle is Banggood.

By the way… I’ll be putting out my review hopefully in under a week. I’ll include video runtime tests for modes 4-7 (which I finished yesterday). Everything looks nice and stable. Again, great light to all involved.

Does anyone have a link to butterfly centering rings that fit this light, so there is less chance to dedomed it.

Found this: Finding centering rings?

Also RMM has some for xp-g xm-l you could hit him up on his page or pm him to see what might cross over to xp-l.

I just saw mention of “adhesive butterfly centering” in the other thread

timestamp Thu, 09/17/2015 - 18:32 (clicking the link works if you’re set to see 300 items per page, otherwise it just goes to the top of the thread I think)

I’ve never come across an adhesive version. Sounds like a good idea.

For anyone interested, the Zebra Light pocket clip fits the A6 very well.

As we know, the A6-SE clip was custom made by/for Manker for this light. Lots of people have reported the clip breaking easily. Other than where cracking is already visible around or near the bends, could the clips be tempered to make them less brittle? Has anyone tried it? I don’t know anything about metalworking, but I’m looking for a solution that doesn’t involve buying another clip. I’ve already tried the Olight clip. It does fit, but it doesn’t stay on when bumped, so it’s not a solution for me. I looked up tempering metal and found an instructables.com article about making a knife that includes these simple instructions for tempering:

Would something like this work for our clips?

Awesome writeup!

I do a bit harder spring bypass but soldering the wire inside the spring, but for beginners of soldering the outside the spring would be much easier…

I have done many spring bypasses inside the spring but whenever there's room outside I do that because it is easier and there's less bending stress on the silicon wire.

Would someone who has a brittle clip be willing to try re-tempering to see if it helps? If you have broken your clip in half, it’s obvious that you have a brittle clip. But, in that case, you may not want to waste your time and electricity baking an already useless clip. However, if you have “snapped” the tabs off the clips, as some have said that they did, you also have a brittle clip! Would you please be willing to try baking it to fix the temper? I put mine in the oven like the quote I posted above, and it is still baking right now. But, I just realized that I didn’t verify that mine was brittle to begin with, so I can’t tell whether baking it will help or not. Someone?

Mine seems brittle but we won’t really know unless we break one right? I did bend the little ramp down on one of mine very gently without snapping it. But how would you go about checking it David?

If you are just looking for a budget clip that rides LOW in the pocket, buy one of THESE clips, find an O-Ring or two that fit your light in the clip groove and put them together….

It has worked for me for several months now with no real major issues, the M1 is a bit long for anything other than cargo pockets. My stock Eagle Eye A6 had no clip, just a lanyard, so this is what I came up with, works on a variety of lights. Almost total concealment of the light if that is what you want…

We are all hoping that Manker makes Clip V2 a bit better. I have not had any brittle clips, and have adjusted all of mine with pliers with no breakage (albeit carefully).

If you want to re-temper your light, try your home oven on a high setting (400F +) for a couple of hours, worst it will do is make it softer….



The NCR18650GA are Protected, and they'll give you longer runtime.

The Samsung INR18650-30Q will give you a brighter/higher output, but shorter runtime, and they are Not protected.

Depends on what you want or need.

If you already have the 18650GA's I would not worry about it. The 30Q will help get the most out of it but that is the difference between cruising at 90mph and 110mph....you are already up there and may not "see" any difference.

Some people have had success breaking the tabs off the two clips on the sides using pliers. If you can snap those off that way, without having to bend it, then you have brittle metal. Depending on how you feel about those tabs, it seems that would be a “safe” way to check. From what some people have been saying, if your clip is brittle and you don’t fix it somehow it will break during normal usage.

My clip doesn’t seem brittle. I just took it off and flexed it somewhat more than you’d expect to ever subject it to.

The tight “u” bend is a poor design; increasing that radius 50% would make it 100 times less likely to break there. There’s still a lot of ‘art’ in tempering flat springs even with the exactness of today’s technology, so the best ‘fix’ is simply a replacement, hopefully coming from a better batch.

Phil

Holy crap! I just tried out my new 30q’s. My lights got too hot to hold! And my hands are pretty calloused! I’m sure my dmm sucks because amperage was high 4’s and I’m pretty sure I had that with my 26f’s. My lights have never ran that hot before. Pretty fun! I’m going to go wake up some neighbors. :evil:

FWIW, if it’s too hot to hold it probably needs to be stepped down.

Thanks TK! Yes I definitely wasn’t waiting on the timer. I didn’t want to mess them up. By the way. Timing was about the same as with the 26f’s. Needed to hit the switch about twice as fast as you are used to to cycle modes. I know people said these will drain faster but wouldn’t they be better than my 2600mah (vs 3000mah 30q) as I long as I stick with the regulated modes?

OK buddy you talked me into it. I was trying to get mine to be more circular. One side of both my clips had too small a circumference. I got that fixed so I moved on to the winglets. Snapped one. I’m gonna try 350 f in my little toaster oven. And then try another wing.

BTW. What were your results?