nice worklog!
thanks for sharing 
Wow! Awesome modding!
Wow testedandbaked, you did the almost perfect Tool-mod with the newest led and the best driver (almost, perfect would be AAA compatibility too). I'm jealous of your skills, I can do a lot but not programming/flashing drivers, you master every aspect of modding and used it all. 
Awesome guide and mod, thanks!
From what I can tell, Tool is best AAA sized light for modding, right?
I need a new small light for daytime carry in fifth pocket and this looks perfect!
Would be nice on the copper Tool in the works….
Nice upgrade!
Holy. That is a crazy cool mod!
Djozz said it perfectly. What an orsm effort. Hats of to you. Your not my neighbor are you? 
And I’m jealous. Once I get serious with modding I’m going to do something like this since I’m a huge fan of “AAA” sized lights. A “Key-pocket rocket” for sure!
Phil
after seeing this, I’m just supposed to go back to using my regular old Lumintop Tool I’m so stinking envious of you modders.
Only the copper tool would make this better
Holy schmoly, what a mod. In the Book of Luke is said: “… it is easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle, than for a rich man ….” Well, if I ever need a camel on the other side of a needle, you’re the go-to person. You describe it like anybody can do this, but this is far beyond the limitations of my eyesight. Awesome! One tiny remark. When I need an insulating piece of plastic that size, I use self-adhesive hole-reinforcing rings. Bigger rings I (also) cut out of a piece of plastic packaging.
Paypal sent ..... :P
never mind ...let me just send you my credit card .
Beautiful work
Thanks all for the wonderful comments. I didn’t quite expect so much praise :shy:
This mod is very much only possible as a result of the works going on at BLF. Buying PCBs made by BLF members, flashing firmwares developed “in-house” and well-documented testing to back up our choice of emitter.
Thanks for testing out the 219c for us! In theory, AAA compatibility is possible… you would need to stack the original boost driver on top and wire the one free pin of the ATTiny to a transistor (?) to shut off the boost circuit when battery voltage is above 1.8v and turn it on when below. For PWM control, wire either the FET or 7135 control in parallel with the boost circuit. Finally, as the ATTiny can’t work with such low voltages, you must use the output of the boost to power the ATTiny. Of course, the voltage reading will be off so you would use the final free pin to read the true battery voltage. On the software side, you would have to put all that extra detection logic into 1k of memory. I dare someone to do it J)
Programming is the easy part; I don’t even know how to code. You will need a usbasp programmer and SOIC clip, had for a few coins on fleabay. Connect everything together then download AVRDUDESS (AVRDUDE with a nice gui), write the correct fuse bits (Low:0x75, High: 0xfd for BLF-A6, probably others too), download a .hex file from Toykeeper’s repo, select and hit Program. To tweak, get Atmel studio and the .c source file, change a few numbers, press F7 to build and flash the resultant .hex file. Not as hard as you think.
I could be, though with 3 million people in Melbourne, the chances are fairly slim
I’ll keep that one handy!
its time to steal this away from you
Update: Spring bypass done
Beamshot comparison (disclaimer, the wall is not white, the camera is a phone)
1/100s ISO110
Left: Convoy S2 with Nichia 219B (4500k) driven at 1.42A ~400 Lumens
Right: Lumintop Tool with Nichia 219C (4000k) driven at 2.70A ~840 Lumens
Wow, great mod. Kinda takes your breath away. A new bar has been set for AAA size lights……
c’mon, 840 Nichia lumens? In my lil Lumintop Tool AAA light?
could u start offering these up? I’ll pay anything.
In a failed dedoming attempt, the 219C turned into a deep blue LED :_(
Therefore I dedomed my remaining spare with a different method and reflowed it onto the Sinkpad, which due to carelessness, was cooked by excess heat.
Finally, the dedomed spare was moved onto the original MCPCB. As it stands, there is no DTP so the LED turned blue and emitted some mystery smoke that hung around in the reflector within about 2 seconds when 2.9A (this LED seems to have an even lower Vf :p) is pumped into it, but not at 2.4A. Fortunately, the LED was not damaged in that short burst but lesson learned, always go DTP to prevent overheating at high current. Now I wonder if there’s a kind soul willing to sell me a 10mm DTP star in Australia…