Agreed. At the 2kHz speed you described, it looks like a strobe light to me. And proper regulation is nice to have.
Proper regulation may be difficult, since it requires more hardware and might use an extra pin. On BLF-A6 there is an unused pin… but probably no room for another component or two. I wonder if we could make it power the LED directly from the MCU. It’d probably require a resistor to adjust the current to the correct level, but otherwise I think it might be feasible if it’s only used for moon. Then there would be three power channels — moon, 7135, and FET.
The 7135 abuse method seems to work well enough most of the time, if people aren’t too picky about the exact output level. Like on the A6, it seems to range from 0.26 lm to 0.55 lm, possibly more. Pretty wide range, but they’re all reasonable for “moon mode” use.
Has anyone seen this before? It looks like the light settles into a mode, notice the flicker and then it is stable? Please disregard the auto exposure, can’t change that on the phone video recorder. I am going to send a note to Neal, I am afraid it will quit altogether. I have used Keeppower 35A and 30Q batteries, verified the switch is tight and cannot disassemble the head.
Very hard to do with a camera that cannot be set to manual exposure! And it happens so soon after mode change that the exposure does not get time to settle in.
Same thing happened with my defective head on mode 2, 3 and 4. Will flicker for abit then settle down. Didn't see this behaviour in my new replacement head. Most probably bad solder (as usual) on the 7135 chip. Ask banggood for a head replacement.
If we speak about flickering, I see my A6 flicker after I switch it to the highest mode (turbo), there is a single short flicker (reduced brightness) after about half a second, not every time but often.
I know there is a unwanted flicker after switching from turbo to moon, but this is the other direction. Is this the sign of a problem or normal behavior?
I also would like to know if you would advise me to remove the MCPCB, which seems to be a forced press-fit as shown in the first post - is there a good chance that I can improve the heat transfer?
So just an update on my A6 5A head replacement; I received it a few days ago & all is good! :bigsmile: Now all 4 of my A6’s are together again lol I’m lovin the 5A tint more and more.
Can I use two CR123a batteries rather than one 18650 safely?
I have some surefire 123s laying around, and my 18650 got lost in shipping and won’t be here for a month or so. But my BLF a6 showed up! I really want to play with it, so i was wondering if i can use two cr123a batteries without hurting the flashlight.
The A-6 is an ideal light for candle mode operation so if there’s a diffuser that fits with the head removed could someone mention it so it can be listed in the op?
Hello, new to these forums, but I received my BLF-A6 from Banggood a couple days ago and the flashlight would not turn on. The batteries are good and I can turn the flashlight on by completing the circuit by linking the battery to the frame with the tailcap portion removed. Also the flashlight can sometime be activated by having the tail-cap sit on top of the threads. Any tips on how this can be fixed, or should I return the flashlight to Banggood or contact the manufacturer. Thanks.
Likely the switch retainer is loose and not properly engaging the switch pcb to the tail cap. Use some needle nose pliers to tighten it. Better yet, remove the brass ring and pcb and clean them and the tail threads first with alcohol and a paper towel as there are often metal shavings or other detritus that interferes with proper threading. Then relube them and reassemble.
Edit- BTW, welcome to the forum, we fix stuff or make it better.
See first post - “Some flashlight basics:” to locate the error (e.g. battery tube, tailcap switchboard, switch, retaining ring …).
Mine had a too short battery tube which couldn’t get contact with the “outer area” of the tailcap. Banggood sent me a new battery tube so i could remove the workaround.
I like using these wand-type diffusers when walking along side the road. It shines like a lantern, so it is very visible to oncoming traffic from hundreds of yards away.
P.S. I do not remove the head when adding the diffuser. Works just fine that way. Besides, with the BLF A6, I’m worried about decapitating the LED whenever I unscrew the head.
If you remove the head, what keeps the LED board in thermal contact with the body of the light?
I thought pressure from bezel-lens-reflector-spacer held it down.
