Nichia 219C, testing a 5000K 83CRI emitter, comparing with a XP-G2 S4 2B and other leds

These Nichias are a straight swap on an XP-G (2) emitter board, right? Just heat, remove XP-G (2), place Nichia, reheat to attach?

I seem to remember some modification that needed done on the XP-G emitter boards for the previous Nichias (219B's?).

-Garry

They are a straight swap. Just note that the board is a tiny bit thinner than the XPG2s, this usually doesn’t affect anything however.

I need to wait until I get new glasses so I can change the resister on a LD-2 to a 12 amp so I can use the triple That I bought from RMM.

Dale, how hot do those Nichias get?

Pushed hard, like in a triple or quad, they get VERY hot!

I builded today my first s2 N219C light( for my elder son): came out 800lumens ( i used EE X6 driver)

Came out a great light, the 219c is a great emitter, the tint is on of the best arround( V6 3D is the best)

Oooh where did you get that clip? Looks great

Another question, when swapping the XP-G2 for a Nichia 219c, how do I align the Nichia? I see nichia's "cathode mark"; do I position this corner of the Nichia where the XP-G2 has its "dot"?

I searched for "XP-G2 cathode mark" but couldn't find a clear answer. Are all LEDs marked with a "cathode mark"?

Thanks,

-Garry

If you’re looking at the pad with the positive contact strip on your right and the negtive contact strip on your left, then the Nichia 219C has the larger white blob bottom left. That out of sorts white blob is the cathode marker.

How does that relate to the XP-G2? The XP-G2's dot would also be at that bottom left? (i.e. Nichia blob is same location as XP-G2's dot? This is a quad board out of a bike light I'm working on.

-Garry

Here's a pic. The XP-G2 below the one nichia is showing how it was oriented. I matched the Nichia blobs to the XP-G2 dots.

-Garry

^

You have those oriented correctly. Here is a mix if A's and C's to help you verify.

Garry how do you like the beam after the 219C swap?

I have a BT70 on the way and wanted to do the same.

I've not tried it yet. I'll post up pics and my impression in my bike light thread when I'm done (see link in my signature). I plan to also post my emitter swap video along with pics over in the MTBR BT40S thread.

-Garry

Hi,

i almost finished the mod of a Roche F8 in desert yellow.

The light got a heatsink with 18mm height with 4mm hole. The heatsink is screwed to the pill with two M3 screws. I plan to fill the gap between heatsink and head with Fujik for better heat transfer, but that is a separate step. The 3XP MCPCB is soldered to the heatsink.

Fully assembled. The light uses a Carclo 10507 optics but i will try 10508 later, because i think the beam could be i bit broader. I don´t need much throw from this one. The light is powered by a MTN FET Driver and a LG HE2 battery.

Here in comparison to 2x BLF Ti (XP-G2 S3; Nichia 219B) and a Sinner (Nichia 219B dedomed). Multicolor :wink:

I measured lumens via ceiling bounce and got 2800 Lumens at startup :crown: The light gets hot pretty fast but not as fast as i thought. My multimeter can only measure up to 10A but i think here are flowing more than 12A. Based on Dale´s Quad Nichia this was the plan on mine :slight_smile: I really like this light! I am still a bit scared about the tiny little tailcap switch to melt …

Greetings

Kenjii

My 219c's from RMM's promo sale turned up today.

I just finished replacing the original warm XP-G in my CNQ Brass Beauty with one of these.

Cooler tint than I had anticipated, & great CRI. I can't imagine what the 90+ CRI variants will be like.

Same here. Just added one to a C8 (replaces an DD XM-L2). With a stacked 7135 driver (~2.7A) its pushing around 35K lux (XP-G2 in S4 bin should be around 38K with the same setup). With the linear driver its still pushing 2A with the battery down to 3.5V (1/3 of capacity left) so looks like the low voltage will help it stay in regulation for quite some time. I think I will be adding these to a number of Eagle Eye X6s and Convoy C8s for friends and family.

Can’t same I’m blown away by them (was hoping for a little more throw) but they are a nice alternative to XP-G2 and would be excellent for headlights, worklights etc. Cheap to.

Did you get the 219C on a MCPCB, or reflow it onto one? Did you have to cut any parts down to fit?

I got the bare LED's from Richard, so I had to reflow.

I had a spare board that was the same diameter & thickness as the original, so I just flowed the 219c & it was a straight swap over, although I took the opportunity to replace the lead wires with 22awg silicone wires. I re-used the original thin insulating gasket.

Note that the board is very thin (1mm*14mm), compared to most boards (~1.5mm). With such tight clearances in this light, using a thicker board might be an issue if the cell is on the long side.

I couldn't say if a 16mm board will fit - there was plenty of clearance for the 14mm board, but I didn't test a 16mm on the pill.

Do you guys think the 219C would hold up DD with a efest 10440? I’m hoping the voltage drop would be enough to keep things stable.

The more I look at djozz’s figures, the less confident I am it will work… I think the amps will run away and probably damage the LED… Mmm.