They are not removeable. I’d wager to guess they’re there for just the mounting system, but they added them to all 4 sides to make it symmetrical. I don’t really fret over ergonomics as much in a flashlight like I would a knife. I know that tailcap switch lights are always a pain To change modes one handed. I actually like the studs on all sides, because I use them as extra grip, and it means it stays cooler than a smaller headed light. I don’t know, but I feel like the light isn’t too small, and I often find I hold lights around the head as much as around the battery tube.
It is plastic, for sure. Or polycarbonate. Or whatever it’s called nowawdays.
Yeah my reviews are a little different. I try to hold the light steady for several seconds in the beamshot section of the review. I also purposefully move he light around on fixed objects. I know I’m biased but since I rarely stand perfectly and keep the beam fixed on 1 object I prefer beamshots that move a little. It helps illustrate how a beam pattern looks when the flashlight moves around a bit.
I spend a lot of time making my reviews more real life than a standard table top or picture review. Everyone else does those. I spend 20+ hours on these so, I often don’t have much time left over to take photos, edit, and upload them. Plus I find video is a very accurate or even underwhelming compared to an overexposed still photo. Which I prefer. You can make any cheap light look great with a log enough exposure in a photo.
That’s my house! That’s what 1300 will get you in rent in northern Virginia. For fun look up the richest counties in per capita income in the US. And then note where half of them are located.
I will admit it looks awesome on camera. Now what’s not awesome, is that some houses still don’t have air condition or central heat.
Awesome review! Looks like a great zoomy. I’ll be waiting for the groupbuy. 
What a review! This is Resident Evil camera... I just feel zombie will pop out of your flashlight movie...
I am one of the biggest zoomie fan on the planet and hunter. I would like to add my opinion for this flashlight. Sorry but I see few flaws :( :
- this flashlight goes slightly in overfocus (probably it can be solved by adding some kind of spacer)
- mounting system does not look reliable to me, and I am not sure how two tiny screws in aluminum could hold heavy recoil of centerfire rifles. OK even if they'll hold sometimes you want to mount it very high (to use high scope mounts), and this one can't be mounted with regular high scope mount cause it will loose de-focusing function so this is one more;
-loosing de-focusing function when you put regular scope mount on it (since it focuses by twisting body).
Otherwise great concept flashlight.
Thanks for the input! It didn’t work well on my rifle because the rail mount wouldn’t work. As far as the recoil test I’d be curious to know. The bolts go pretty deep inside of the light. Working in professional AV, I’ve seen 8 slightly larger than finger sized bolts hold up the entire lighting and truss structure of an upper part of a stage. When I was younger I grew up in a family of hunters, so I’ve shot many shotguns and rifles. So I guess, my point is, someone who has access to larger caliber guns and lives in an area where they can be used should try it out. It should hold up fine to smaller caliber rifles, like a 22. But again, it needs to be tested.
Since this light can be had easily for under $30, then it seems worth a chance.
I am probably wrong! Look that neck part is 1" so we can safely add higher scope mount :)
Someone will need to modd this and report kcd results with fet driver.
Hmmm... Is there any chance that we unscrew the switch while de-focousing?
I’ve got an XPL hi and BLF driver in order, so I’ll see what happens and report back.
Edit:
Hmmm... Is there any chance that we unscrew the switch unconscious when this flashlight is rifle mounted and we do de-focousing action? I think there is good chance for that... That would be annoying.
Please also try that and report :)
Thank you very much Sir ;)
I found if the tailcap isn’t screwed down tightly then yes it is possible. The threads on the body are square cut and require less force to turn them, especially if you keep them lubed. After the first turn you have enough body tube to turn comfortably from the tube.
Hope I am not to annoying :(
- So it has hard plastic retaining ring for led? (did you tried to remove it?)
- Driver from bottom side does not look soldered so it probably has bottom retaining ring for driver? If it has I don't see holes...
This flashlight has plenty of good stuff for little $... I really hope that lenses are same or better quality than on 1503 flashlight, and that switch can't be accidentally unscrewed each time while we do focusing/de focusing.
There is a hard plastic centering ring for the LED. You use a pair of tweezers to unscrew it. It is a threaded centering ring. The driver, appears press fit. There is no solder or retaining ring on the bottom side. I have not tried to remove it yet, because I had to complete the review with a working driver. But I expect to have to pry it out. I don’t feel the tailcap will be a problem. The body turns much easier than the tailcap. I always tightened the tailcap properly. It’s also best to tighten the tailcap when the flashlight is at its longest so you can hold properly on to the battery tube to screw down the tailcap all the way.
Thanks,
We(You) must see how to safely remove driver from brass pill.
This flashlight looks like a champ so far.
A47 driver(probably 1050A current draw) and with XML giving 58 000 cd is more than good. This could be killer of all 50mm aspherics so far...
Please continue with modding! 
The AK47 driver seems to be on the red color LED. Archer at Brinyte said the white module uses the 105C driver. When I get in the new driver and LED I will disassemble the driver head. I can say the LEDs are both glued in the top with some thermal paste, and the driver so far has been uneasy to remove. I forsee destroying both when removing them. I had originally told them not to glue the LED, but they did. I will contact Archer at Brinyte about not gluing them. Take my 58kcd with a grain of salt, my meter isn’t calibrated, but you can see from the beamshots that the Brinyte holds it’s own at the 250 foot distance- and it is compared with known lights that my figures are relatively close to. The 250 foot area is that place precisely where I have the markings, which is a hold in the trees.
Hope you'll fit new driver without too much sanding. It needs to be soldered.
Factory probably have some press toll for fitting driver but that cant good as good driver to pill soldering.
I don't see big issue with glued led. This type of flashlights needs to modded anyway. :)
I agree! I’d like to just get blank pills with the light, and I’ve put in another email about doing that. Brinyte is a bit reluctant it seems to do so, but I’ll keep this thread updated. I will also report back when I’ve modded the light. Should take a week or two to get my driver and then find some time to sit down and get the pill stripped.
Another entertaining and informative review. Keep to your current style; it is so nice to see a well thought out and professionally done video in the midst of so many "unboxing" clips.
Like many, I don't normally look much at zoomies but this one does seem nicely built. I'm trying to stop getting hooked into the group buys but I'd be interested if this one could be had with blank pills to kit out as we see fit.
Looking forward to an update on your modded version, especially with respect to how well this host transfers the heat of a hot-rod light engine.
I hear ya on the group buys. I think I’m on all of the BLF special lights right now. Yeah I’m curious to know what it does. I feel like it should handle it ok, I’m using the BLF driver and it seems to work fine on the A6. But I’d like to compare it to the Acebeam T20, which is by far the best thrower I have. But I also have to fix the emitter on that one first too. So much to do!
Are the pills available separately?