The head and pill should unscrew from the battery tube as a unit if theyāre stuck together so yes, just run it on turbo until itās pretty warm but you can still grab it to unscrew then immediately stick the pill end on an ice cube for 5-10 seconds. A wide rubber band doubled over a few times on each piece might help with grip.
I got i open, and it was so easy when I used all the tricks together.
First i heated it by running it in turbo a few times without holding it to get it extra hot, and while it ran I took some ice cubes and crushed them to a slush. Then i quickly removed the searingly hot head and put it head down in the ice slush for ~10 seconds. and then i used a silicon oven liner for extra grip and finally I got it open easy
The threads where super gritty, but now i can at least make this anodized BLF A6 in to the triple it was always meant to be.
I usually go with a teflon-based (PTFE) greaseā¦ though Iāve been lazy about it lately and have like a dozen lights I havenāt properly cleaned and lubed yet.
I have some āSuper Lubeā from The O-ring Store, but am going back to furniture wax with carnauba, beeās wax and orange oil. It seems to be more slippery.
Yeah it works great, i donāt use thread lubes that are going to get close to my skin that i canāt eat, :bigsmile: and coconut oil dosenāt go rancid because of the mct component in it.
And if it gets on your skin it is an amazing skin oil.
I would never use fluoride based compounds(teflon) close to my skin, i donāt even use teflon based cookware only ceramic coated ones, stainless and glass, teflon is nasty toxic stuff :Sp
Interesting, furniture wax could be a good alternative.
I think i am going to experiment with some coconut oil, bees wax, jojoba & liquid lanolin oil combination to see if i can get a longer lasting and even slipperier thread lube.
If anyone wants to try, the trick is to heat them up together so they mix before gently cooling them down.
I donāt think lubricants increase resistance, because they are squeezed out where the metals touch. There is a thin film that may remain, but that doesnāt seem to affect resistance(?) They reduce corrosion that does add resistance, especially in things that havenāt been used for a while. I think lubrication also helps by slowing the wear of gold plating. The gold is another way of avoiding corrosion.
Weird maybe, but it seems after I Nyogel bare or close to bare threads, I always seem to get a little more out of the lumens measurements - same cells, everything else the same. Just did that last night, and I've seen it several other times. Nyogel is supposed to be non-conductive, but still seems like the best thing around. I'm so glad a while back I bought a large tube from a BLF member, who bought up a bunch of ol Motorcraft tubes for cheap.
āNyoGelĀ® products were developed for wide-temperature applications requiring water and salt-water resistance. The 774 series consists of silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon of various viscosities depending upon how much mechanical dampening is required of various components. The damping greases also provide good water resistance.
The 756 series utilizes a silica thickened hydrocarbon that includes the incorporation of carbon black since it was designed to be electrically conductive for instrument and bearing applications.ā
While weāre off topic, I would like to say that the lubricant thing is way overdone. The battery tube going into the pill up top should be left alone, dry contact between the two conductive components is best. At the tail, where the battery is removed to charge on a regular basis, only the smallest amount of lube to prevent the o-ring from tearing should be utilized. This will find itās way onto the threads whether you like it or not, and will need to be cleaned regularly or youāll be wearing black thread stripes. I try to keep it from being on the bare end of the tube and the contact point in the tail cap as much as possible.
Iāve had to repair lights where someone used way too much lube and the resulting black mess down in the tail cap virtually blocked the pcb from making contact. Thoroughly cleaned the amperage went up to the expected values.
It seems you are correct. 760g is not conductive, but the above site does not state that. On the other hand 768g is supposedly conducting, but the above site does not even mention the product.
As I said before, my observations with Nyogel 760G say something different with dependency on quality of threads a big variable in all this, but of course lubes like Nyogel 760G should be used lightly and maintained properly. I've never seen it turn dark gray on anodized threads like on Convoy's and Eagle Eyes or this Manker BLF A6 for that matter, but on bare alum threads that are frequently used, yes, of course the aluminum micro fragments will stick in the lube and build up with more and more usage, turning it into dark gray sludge, specially if it's over applied.
I did not specifically check output results with/without Nyogel on a stock BLF A6. I just take it for granted it's better with than without it from past experiences, but once in a while when I have checked it before/after, it's either equal or better after applied to both head end and tail end of the body tube threads.