BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

The head and pill should unscrew from the battery tube as a unit if theyā€™re stuck together so yes, just run it on turbo until itā€™s pretty warm but you can still grab it to unscrew then immediately stick the pill end on an ice cube for 5-10 seconds. A wide rubber band doubled over a few times on each piece might help with grip.

YEEEESSSS :smiley:

I got i open, and it was so easy when I used all the tricks together.

First i heated it by running it in turbo a few times without holding it to get it extra hot, and while it ran I took some ice cubes and crushed them to a slush. Then i quickly removed the searingly hot head and put it head down in the ice slush for ~10 seconds. and then i used a silicon oven liner for extra grip and finally I got it open easy :slight_smile:

The threads where super gritty, but now i can at least make this anodized BLF A6 in to the triple it was always meant to be.

Thanks guys :slight_smile:

Thinking outside the box. Great idea.

Good job! Dale suggested above using metal polish on the threads to smooth things out.

I have some old rubber strip left from a rubber powered model airplane I made. There is enough of it to increase the leverage as well as the grip.

Thanks, it is always even more rewarding when you do succeed after failing a bunch times :slight_smile:

About the gritty threads, i cleaned them with a toothbrush and greased them with some raw organic coconut oil. And now they are smoooooth :wink:

Coconut oil as thread lube?

I usually go with a teflon-based (PTFE) greaseā€¦ though Iā€™ve been lazy about it lately and have like a dozen lights I havenā€™t properly cleaned and lubed yet.

I have some ā€œSuper Lubeā€ from The O-ring Store, but am going back to furniture wax with carnauba, beeā€™s wax and orange oil. It seems to be more slippery.

Yeah it works great, i donā€™t use thread lubes that are going to get close to my skin that i canā€™t eat, :bigsmile: and coconut oil dosenā€™t go rancid because of the mct component in it.
And if it gets on your skin it is an amazing skin oil.

I would never use fluoride based compounds(teflon) close to my skin, i donā€™t even use teflon based cookware only ceramic coated ones, stainless and glass, teflon is nasty toxic stuff :Sp

Interesting, furniture wax could be a good alternative.

I think i am going to experiment with some coconut oil, bees wax, jojoba & liquid lanolin oil combination to see if i can get a longer lasting and even slipperier thread lube.

If anyone wants to try, the trick is to heat them up together so they mix before gently cooling them down.

Doesnā€™t the non-conducting Lube increase the resistance?

(There is a post somewhere that even the supposedly conducting-lube is non-conducting.)

I donā€™t think lubricants increase resistance, because they are squeezed out where the metals touch. There is a thin film that may remain, but that doesnā€™t seem to affect resistance(?) They reduce corrosion that does add resistance, especially in things that havenā€™t been used for a while. I think lubrication also helps by slowing the wear of gold plating. The gold is another way of avoiding corrosion.

Weird maybe, but it seems after I Nyogel bare or close to bare threads, I always seem to get a little more out of the lumens measurements - same cells, everything else the same. Just did that last night, and I've seen it several other times. Nyogel is supposed to be non-conductive, but still seems like the best thing around. I'm so glad a while back I bought a large tube from a BLF member, who bought up a bunch of ol Motorcraft tubes for cheap.

For laughs:

ā€œForget conductive lube. It doesnā€™t conduct.ā€

ā€œComprehensive Grease and Lube Threadā€:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?242414-Comprehensive-Grease-and-Lube-Thread

As I said at that time, I am still thoroughly confused about non-conducting/conducting lube on threads.

Nyogel 760g is supposed to be conductive.

ā€œNyoGelĀ® products were developed for wide-temperature applications requiring water and salt-water resistance. The 774 series consists of silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon of various viscosities depending upon how much mechanical dampening is required of various components. The damping greases also provide good water resistance.

The 756 series utilizes a silica thickened hydrocarbon that includes the incorporation of carbon black since it was designed to be electrically conductive for instrument and bearing applications.ā€

I'm probably wrong but it's weird: can't find any spec on it yet that says it's conductive.

Here: http://newgateonline.com/media/wysiwyg/Nye-TDS/TDS_NyoGel_760G.pdf

Here: https://www.armytek.com/products/accessories/grease/nyogel-760g.html

Here: http://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/0/cd4ec0f4a93c98f4b26ce8e7fc8544e6/misc/760g_overview.pdf

Here: http://www.nyelubricants.com/nyogel

While weā€™re off topic, I would like to say that the lubricant thing is way overdone. The battery tube going into the pill up top should be left alone, dry contact between the two conductive components is best. At the tail, where the battery is removed to charge on a regular basis, only the smallest amount of lube to prevent the o-ring from tearing should be utilized. This will find itā€™s way onto the threads whether you like it or not, and will need to be cleaned regularly or youā€™ll be wearing black thread stripes. I try to keep it from being on the bare end of the tube and the contact point in the tail cap as much as possible.

Iā€™ve had to repair lights where someone used way too much lube and the resulting black mess down in the tail cap virtually blocked the pcb from making contact. Thoroughly cleaned the amperage went up to the expected values.

Brylcream, a little dabā€™ll do ya. :wink:

NyoGel 756Gā€”-Electrically Conductive

Obviously, too much of this can migrate into the driver and short it out. Not good.

It seems you are correct. 760g is not conductive, but the above site does not state that. On the other hand 768g is supposedly conducting, but the above site does not even mention the product.

Discussion on Nygel here:

As I said before, my observations with Nyogel 760G say something different with dependency on quality of threads a big variable in all this, but of course lubes like Nyogel 760G should be used lightly and maintained properly. I've never seen it turn dark gray on anodized threads like on Convoy's and Eagle Eyes or this Manker BLF A6 for that matter, but on bare alum threads that are frequently used, yes, of course the aluminum micro fragments will stick in the lube and build up with more and more usage, turning it into dark gray sludge, specially if it's over applied.

I did not specifically check output results with/without Nyogel on a stock BLF A6. I just take it for granted it's better with than without it from past experiences, but once in a while when I have checked it before/after, it's either equal or better after applied to both head end and tail end of the body tube threads.

Sounds interesting, but the discussion you all had after this post just made me confused :~

Exactly what kind of Nyogel are you talking about?

EDIT
I guess from post #356 the 760G kind?

EDIT2
At least Nyogel 760G looks to be pretty much non toxic.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ArmyTek-Nyogel-760G-Flashlight-Silicone-Grease-Cream-5g-/221391703670?hash=item338bf94e76:g:g1MAAOxyoVZTHylZ

EDIT3
It is almost impossible to stay away from something that could give an output boost so i think i will have to try it sooner or later.

Can you Tom E give a hint on the range we are talking about, is it about 1ā€“2 when it does go up?