BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

It seems you are correct. 760g is not conductive, but the above site does not state that. On the other hand 768g is supposedly conducting, but the above site does not even mention the product.

Discussion on Nygel here:

As I said before, my observations with Nyogel 760G say something different with dependency on quality of threads a big variable in all this, but of course lubes like Nyogel 760G should be used lightly and maintained properly. I've never seen it turn dark gray on anodized threads like on Convoy's and Eagle Eyes or this Manker BLF A6 for that matter, but on bare alum threads that are frequently used, yes, of course the aluminum micro fragments will stick in the lube and build up with more and more usage, turning it into dark gray sludge, specially if it's over applied.

I did not specifically check output results with/without Nyogel on a stock BLF A6. I just take it for granted it's better with than without it from past experiences, but once in a while when I have checked it before/after, it's either equal or better after applied to both head end and tail end of the body tube threads.

Sounds interesting, but the discussion you all had after this post just made me confused :~

Exactly what kind of Nyogel are you talking about?

EDIT
I guess from post #356 the 760G kind?

EDIT2
At least Nyogel 760G looks to be pretty much non toxic.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ArmyTek-Nyogel-760G-Flashlight-Silicone-Grease-Cream-5g-/221391703670?hash=item338bf94e76:g:g1MAAOxyoVZTHylZ

EDIT3
It is almost impossible to stay away from something that could give an output boost so i think i will have to try it sooner or later.

Can you Tom E give a hint on the range we are talking about, is it about 1–2 when it does go up?

Here is an oddity that was first reported by markr6 at CPF.

Not sure it matters but mine is set to no memory, 4 mode. I guess that means I don't have "moonlight", but instead low. Shouldn't matter but maybe it does?

Using a naked NCR18650GA.

1. Turn light on with full click (now in low)
2. 3 half presses to get cycle to turbo
3. Let it sit for 45 seconds, watch it step down, wait a few seconds
4. Long half press to reverse cycle. It will go down to low (or first mode) but not any further (NO turbo>strobe>batt check>bike mode)
5. Turn light off for a bit, say, 10 seconds. Still won't reverse into special modes.
6. Wait another 10 seconds and everything works fine.

By following Mark's instructions, I was able to replicate this behavior.

Thanks, Mark.

I tested one of my A6 flashlights. It has the same bug!

I repeated the test, but entered Turbo mode directly from low. Same result. I also repeated the test in the mode group with 7 output levels. Same result.

One thing that seems odd is that the long half press in your step 4 seems to jump directly to low (4 modes) or moonlight (7 modes). I expected it to simply go to the next lower level. In the mode group with 4 modes, for instance, the lowest mode is level 1 and the highest mode is level 4. After the 45-second timeout in level 4, the light steps down to level 3. From there, a long half-press should go to level 2, not level 1.

Mine behaves the same in reference to turbo step down, except I don’t have the problem in your last paragraph.

ToyKeeper has programmed 3 press styles, a short press bumps modes forward, a medium press engages reverse, and a long press takes the light back to the beginning or in this case low. So it’s working exactly as programmed.

Waiting 10 seconds and seeing it repeat the process makes me think there is an issue with the off-time capacitor.

I think it's been said before the heat from turbo mode really messes with the capacitor. So click timing after running turbo is really whacky. I tried mine and got some weird results as you said but super fast clicks do run the modes forwards. Not necessarily a bad thing being that I've not really needed turbo for long periods let alone needing to go into strobe or bike afterwards.

Hey guys and gals,
My BLF A6 showed up today along with my blue Convoy S2+ host.

My plan was to change over the tail switch from the S2+ to the A6, but fortunately the whole S2+ tail switch threads onto the A6 tailcap. unfortunately the A6 tailcap does not fit on the S2+.
Mode switching and programming all work flawlessly.
Here’s the proof

Known issue, and to be expected. The off-time capacitor they used is sensitive to heat, so the button timings change depending on the temperature of the light. While hot, it’s faster… and while cold, it’s slower.

This effect was reduced by 80% before production, but not eliminated entirely.

If you use one of RMM’s drivers instead, the heat sensitivity is reduced by like 95% so it’s barely noticeable even when very hot or very cold. RMM uses the best available components, and he has an improved board design.

Design might be improved even more by relocating the cap to the spring side.

Copied to “What Legoes With What” collection at What Legoes with What?
(link works if you’re viewing 300 comments per page)

Thanks

Do you guys and gals think this light would still benefit from the tail spring bypass mod with the S2+ tailcap installed? Can the S2+ switch handle that kind of thing?

I have a couple of S2+ hosts, and they definitely needed a tail spring bypass for a triple. I haven’t tried one with a single emitter though.

I made a triple S2+ without the tail bypass… and it kinda melted the spring so that it’s always compressed now. :frowning:

Ok good to know. How may amps are you pulling with a triple?

But the metal switch is still functional even with the current draw of a tripel?
My plan is to build a triple with an A6 driver in a S2+ host (with metal switch), but I couldn’t find more info (max. Amps) about the switch.

More than any of my equipment can measure.

The light works fine… it just compressed the spring so far that even a light tap will cause it to change modes. It’s fixable by stretching the spring out (or putting in a new one) and adding a spring bypass.

For higher-amp lights like a triple XP-L, I have a solid post on one end of the battery and a really strong spring on the other side (q-lite springs are actually pretty awesome).

Somebody please correct me if I’m wrong, but I always look at the switch in this perspective. If it’s supposed to be able to do 1.5A at 125V, then that would be 3A at 62.5V or 6A at 31.25V or 12A at 15.625V or 24A at 7.8125V or 48A at 3.90625V, well I think you can see that they should handle anything we have cells for. I don’t know if this is the correct way to evaluate these switches, but I’m sure someone can and will chime in if I’m off base.

I’ve run a small Omten at 21A in my Ti X6 with 4 Nichia 219C and so far so good. It could fail tomorrow of course, but…

I’ve also had good luck stretching a spring back into proper form then bypassing it with a wire bypass. The wire carries the current from this point forward and the spring has always worked to keep the cell in contact. Again, so far so good.

Typical triples with XP-L HI emitters run around 11-12A, with XP-G2 emitters around 9-11A. That’s if you do spring bypasses and kill all resistance possible while using a top high discharge cell with a good solid ground in the host body.

Is there a link somewhere for this solid post mod?

I did the spring bypass on the s2+metal tail switch that I have on my A6 today and it seems to be working fine. I have a regular NCR18650B so I’m sure it’s not putting it to the test though.

Ooops sorry didn't see this. Definitely Nyogel 760G. The difference is minor but varied radically from light to light, all depending. I've probably seen high as of 20 lumens, so for 600'ish lights, that's 3.3%. I'd say 0-4% in a range.