Brinyte B158 mod thread

Sorry, I’m not at all familiar with FET drivers.

I’ve updated post #2 to include the modification information I posted in the group buy thread. I’ll keep links or quotes to pertinent information I post there.

Thanks KKW,

Now we can start talk :)

So you mentioned that is very hard to remove the driver out? Did you try to use heat gun?

Heat gun should de solder inner side where driver is soldered to, and than it could pop out much easier without damaging pill? Of course some kind of bench vise, hammer and nails :) needs to be used.

I think we got to return on pressure switch talk cause this is big enigma(at least for me).

I saw you wrote that you only have 5-10% loss with 1504 FET and only mod you did is spring bypass?

In my experience light loss is more than 30%... More like 40% with spring bypass done and even more if it is not done.

Hope you'll manage to crack pressure switch somehow so it can be run with FET drivers without light loss.

This was the first attempt at disassembling the pill, so I was trying to feel it out. In the future, knowing what I know now I’d just hit the whole pill with my butane torch until everything dropped out.

Got distracted by a sick kid and my quadcopter build. I’ll try and get some numbers for the 1504 pressure switch this weekend.

1504/1503 switch should fit nice to B158 so if guys can't get B158 one they can put UF switch inside right?

Looking forward for pressure switch modifications :)

I’m confused here - mhanlen’s video shows a one piece driver but Kloepper Knife Works says he found a contact board and driver floating around in the pill.

Different driver types altogether for the XM-L and XP-E?

I am not at all keen on the floating driver!

I’ve had other lights which used a 20mm contact board and 17mm driver flopping around inside the pill and had issues….flickering and cutout - possibly the driver was shorting inside the pill?

I was about to order a number of B158’s….now I’m not so sure…. :expressionless:

Pressure switch - I have a couple of Brinyte S28 tailcaps with pressure switches lying around (I don’t use them for my hunting, just one more thing to get hooked up at night….) and the S28 tailcap screwed straight on to the B158 and worked fine.

One of the boards shown in KKW's picture shows a NANJG 105C which can not have been a stock board, his text is a bit confusing but I assume his copy had a single board too.

Just looking at my three pills, the XM-L and red and green XP-E’s, the boards appear different.

The XM-L has the same blue coloured board as in KKW’s pics, and the other two have a green coloured board with the familiar grounding stars for mode selection around the outside. My XM-L is three mode, the other two are single mode. I’m assuming what I’m seeing is the outside of a single driver board on the XP-E units, not just a contact board. Maybe I’ll disassemble one of the green ones I have, I don’t really use them. In any case, I have some spare drivers.

The mount - I’ve used my B158 in the field a few times, mounted on both my .17HMR and .223 bolt action. The light worked quite well and I’ve taken over 30 foxes using it, with both the white and red LED’s.

The included mount will work on one of those scope mounted ring-rails, on a 40mm AO scope and it just clears. On my .17HMR the light can sit directly over the low profile vertical scope turret.

On the .223 which has tall, target style turrets I just offset the mount to about 1 o’clock so the torch sits between the vertical and horizontal turrets.

I haven’t tried this light on a harder kicking rifle than the .223 (next to no recoil) but I have thumped the light pretty hard with my hand from the front, back and side while it’s on to see if it flickers. It doesn’t. :slight_smile:

Nice info. How you consider focusing action when rifle mounted? Hard or easy? Do you have to watch to not unscrew tailcap when doing focusing?

TBH, I tend not to play with the focus when I’m hunting. On average I’m calling foxes in to around 50 - 75m so I set the focus a bit less than fully focused as I want a bit more spread - in particular with the tight spot of the red XP-E.

I did test out focusing the light with the rifle shouldered and a fox coming in the other night and it worked OK.

Yes, loosening the tailcap when adjusting focus can happen if you aren’t careful! I tend to tighten it up as hard as I can by hand and be careful to grab ahead of it if I can - the light is never used on full flood so there’s some battery tube left to grab.

For those interested, here’s a fox lit up at about 50m. Screengrabs from footage of my ATN gun camera, which has 5X optical zoom.

Another a bit closer.

Red XP-E pill at about 20m, defocused a bit.

I’ll be doing an XP-G2 pill, not that I often need really long throw but it will be interesting and handy to have. :slight_smile:

Oh yes it was the stock board. The picture is of what came in the pill. I think one of two things is going on.

1. The white LED drivers use the contact plate, while the green and red versions don’t.

2. The lights sold by fasttech are different than the ones being sold through gearbest, possibly an earlier revision.

Thanks,

That may be crucial in choosing UF1503(T50) over B158.

This mentioned above is maybe their design flaw. They could put some kind ring(anti roll) similar as this to eliminate possible tailcap unscrewing during focusing issue:

Yeah, it’s not ideal that the tailcap can come unscrewed during focusing.

TBH, if I was really worried out it, I’d tape the tailcap up before a night’s hunting so that couldn’t happen.

My samples have come direct from Brinyte, FYI.

Does anyone else think the driver floating around inside the pill is a big issue, apart from heat buildup?

I do, but it doesn’t sound like all of them are put together that way, only those of us who got white ones from fasttech have seen the 2 board setup(I think, unless you got a white one from Brinyte that way). We’ll have to see how the ones from gearbest come, it appears the colored ones will not have floaters.

What other issues do you foresee?

I really don’t get why they would built lights like this with floating drivers - they’ve made those nice, heavy brass pills and then throw away the heatsinking aspect of it by having the driver floating inside in thin air.

AND it overcomplicates the assembly process. :*

Not wanting to pull my pills to bits, I probed down through the LED wire holes on the green XP-E and XM-L units and it does seem that the XP-E has a single board while the XM-L has the contact board and separate driver floating in the pill.

Maybe. I don’t have that problem now that I’ve modded mine. I feel like most people who have got in on this group buy purchased the red light, with the intention of modding it- so it won’t be a problem. And yes, the XP-E does have a single board, unless there’s a different revision floating around. My video confirms this.

Maybe a piece of inner tube stretched over the tube and tail cap?

Yeah that might work.

For those interested, a 30mm scope ring will neatly fit the neck section of the B158 if you need a higher mount. There is ample clearance here on a 40mm scope with AO. And of course there are higher mounts than this out there. This is just a DX cheapie and they work fine for mounting lights. :slight_smile:

That’s a Brinyte S28 tailcap with pressure switch by the way, and it works. (I don’t use pressure switches, it’s just a ’speriment) :slight_smile:

Thanks blitzwing. If its no trouble could you post up a couple of links.

Sure.

The mount used above:

http://www.dx.com/p/aluminum-alloy-25-30mm-gun-rail-mount-black-2-pcs-230284#.Vm_mCkorLAU

The 25mm rail adaptor that is on the scope - this is a 25mm / 1” one but they have 30mm also.

http://www.dx.com/p/aluminum-alloy-bracket-mount-with-hex-wrench-for-m16-gun-25mm-caliber-47332#.Vm_mRUorLAU

I got my pressure switch with a batch of Brinyte S28’s, I see they are listed on Aliexpress for a somewhat steep price….

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Brinyte-S18-S28-Remote-Pressure-Switch/422244_939910629.html