Groupbuy for UNI-T UT210e clamp meter for tailcap current readings

Please add me to the table for the clamp meter.

Cheers.

I am interested in the Uni-T clamp meter, what do I need to do to join the group buy?

I bought my Mastech MS2108A trying to upgrade from the Velleman DMM I had that I knew was lousy with stock leads but seemed pretty close with home made 8.5” 12Ga Turnigy leads. But I was getting into higher amperage lights and knew too that the Velleman was gonna blow. I’ve read over 21A on the Mastech, thinking I might have seen 36 once but am not sure, that was on a big triple XHP-70 light if I recall correctly but chances are my memory is jerking me around again.

At any rate, I’d like to get one of these to stay on the same page with y’all, have a comparison with the the Mastech and see if we can find “the truth”. :slight_smile:

I just ran a test on the Lucky Sun D80 BLF Special Edition, stock group buy light that I received around 10 PM on the 28th of Dec.
With a Sony VTC5 at a rested 4.20-4.21V I got these readings…

6” 20Ga loop from the negative pad, flashlight fully assembled (sans reflector and lens)…. 3.92A
6” 20Ga leads soldered to each pad of the Noctigon, directly connected to the cell… 4.99A
20.5” 12Ga loop tail reading, still same C5 cell… 4.36A
Velleman DMM with 8.5” leads, same cell… 4.04A

So I’m willing to buy this Uni-T model for verification of what I’m actually using now, and comparison to what y’all get using this clamp meter. Should prove interesting…

Dale, Freeme may see your interest here, or you can post “I’m in for the UNI-T” in his groupbuy thread linked in the OP.

23) DB Custom

please add me to GB on UT210E clamp meter.

regards,

Linh

Thanks freeme, appreciate it.

Friends over at CPF will be joining in our UT210E group buy .

Thanks freeme!

After all, they are people too… I should know as I am one of them; well sorta :wink:

:slight_smile:

-Chuck

You guys should thank pilotdog68 for starting this topic instead.

psh, I should thank all of you. I just wanted advice, instead I’m getting a smokin deal!

Advice that saves money, noplace but BLF! :slight_smile:

Then you’ll spend bags more after those savings… just sayin….

Count me in too, my Unit just stopped working right before Xmas( the clamp function only) for i hope this one will last longer, first came dead, secodn one worked for 5 months( home flashligth hobby use), third one will be the winner i am sure! :wink:

Definitely interested in the UT210E GB.

I have this unit only for A readings, and sometimes battery voltage measurements.

Only thing that I don't like is that it can't light up tested led emitter. So for that I use other 9V one :)

Good thing: Auto shut down after several minutes of not using it. Hold function.

I don't know how accurate is this thing but I think it has reasonable accuracy since my old dmm could not read even half of the value with pictured B158 fet driver.

Stupid questions: What happens when you put the clamp around the battery instead of the wire? What happens when you put the clamp around the whole flashlight? (wouldn’t it be great to measure the amperage from the outside of the fully assembled light?)

My primary use for this meter is tailcap readings, but you can bet your horse’s uncle that I’m also going to run around the house clamping anything electrical that will fit.

Nothing happens :) It can't embrace flashlight tube. Jaws are to small, and I am not to sure if it would show any readings even if it could. Someone more experienced got to explain is this possible :)

It always starts with AC mode so manually switch to DC each time is must. Yes another pain in the ass together with no light to tested led :)

Yes, nothing happens. I can “embrace” a whole flashlight tube but read nothing significant.
I guess that’s mainly because you are embracing both the ways of the current. To make a measure current has to flow just in one direction.
If you go around your house clamping every power cable of your domestic devices even in AC you won’t see a thing. That’s because you can only measure 1 conductor. If you think about it it’s pretty obvious

Yeah I suppose you’re right, I’m just not too familiar with the particulars of the Hall Effect. What about clamping the battery?

You could always split those dual wire power lines from lamps and toasters and such, clamp one wire. The cell itself you couldn’t read, power through in 2 directions same as the flashlight tube.

If a driver has long enough leads to separate it from the driver bay you might be able to put the clamp on a driver lead. That would show current going in to the driver as the switch allows. I like to desolder the negative from the mcpcb and put a length of wire between the lead and the pad so I can get the clamp on it, that gives actual emitter current. In that way you can test a light like the Meteor that has 4 triples, you’re reading the current as it comes away from the emitters. Separating any one is tough though.

I am interested in the Uni-T clamp meter, what do I need to do to join the group buy?