I will do measurement again and will take pics. It really jumps high but it settles at lower A after 2-3 seconds. I will show result again when I fill up NCR PF.
I'm not too happy with the current jumping up and down in my measurement above, with the thick copper wires I do not get a good enough contact for a stable current.
Yes. I measured again with uni-t ut210E clamp meter.
LG HG2 (brown), Panasonic ncr PF (green). Both charged to 4.25V.
This clamp meter has a bit of jump than it settles on real readings. Silicone 12AWG high strand wire used with tinned ends(maybe I should leave exposed wire for better contact?)
So HG2 has 4.4A while NCR PF has 3.9A readings.
I will mention that this was taken with savage finger press on battery - and exposed aluminum at the end of flashlight tube. Since this meter has hold function my wife pressed it :)
Also if you will gently press you will get even lower readings than that. Interesting... Gentle press low A readings, savage press higher readings.
Maybe all that means that solid + - contact(firmly pressed battery inside flashlight) also has some influence on current draw? I don't know.
This stands to reason since contact area and total number of contact points will definitely affect the contact resistance. I would think that well mated surfaces would be more influential than just pressure alone.
There's a couple of factors from my experiences. For my test leads that simply have solder blobs at the end, I refresh the solder on occasion and get higher amps. I've also found NO-OX-ID treatment on the solder blobs will sometimes bump readings, or stabilize the readings. In addition, sometimes a heavy wire jumper from batt- to the body tube gets lower lumens measurements than a fully bypassed tailcap assembled on the light. So, there are issues in contact surfaces.
Heat the end of your jumper till the solder melts, then mash it flat quickly with a screwdriver blade. Gives you a lot more strands in contact with the flat battery end and hopefully more current flow. Not sure what to do with the body end as each light will be a bit different.
Phil
Brinyte has an excellent costumer support as Mhanlen said...
Brinyte do accept OEM ODM orders. Moq for odm is 50 pcs.
So if any of you guys wants something in B158 style but with your logo or some other idea here is your chance to order it.
They are very serious company for doing small or serious business.
Don't ask me what and how I managed to deal. If you want to place your own oem or odm order with them I strongly suggest contact them on this email
I told ya! I wasn’t exaggerating when I said they have the nicest customer service rep I’ve ever dealt with. I’m talking USA too. They sent me a personalized Christmas email when it had been more than a month than I had talked to anyone there. I guess the key is having the right email address. If anyone ever wanted the email just shoot me a PM and I’ll pass it along.
Yes. The best and most prompt costumer service ever :)
I finally started on my B158 last night. I’m a big fan so far. I did a gas-dedomed XP-G2 S2 1D from FT and the tint came out really nice. Also a FET+1 driver of course. Just by the unscientific measurement of pointing both hotspots at a wall from 15ft and comparing, the throw seems quite a bit better than my Jacob A60 with the same specs. That’s before it’s even done. I still have to install the lighted tailcap and bypass the tail spring, center the emitter (it’s pretty far off center right now), and paint the pill-top black to cut down some of the ugly reflections. I’ll have to measure amps after the Clamp Meter GB comes through.
Did everyone else use the white plastic centering ring or just get rid of it? I am using it for now, just to hold the emitter down.
I’m using it. But I’m a mod-lite type guy, so my opinion only goes so far on this matter.
I also use white centering ring off course. It is far easier to put a dab of artic silver under led mcpcb than to solder to pill and then you see it is a just bit off center. No difference in performance in my book and I tried both.
Yeah I don’t like semi/permanent thermal glues either, I normally use Ceramique II. I just didn’t know if that ring was causing some of the beam “blemishes” since it sticks up above the emitter.
Just don't white wall it :) Use it.
Nah, once it starts being useful, I'm out! 
I have soldered the board to the pill btw. Before heating, I used two pieces of a match between board and side of the pill to keep the board centered while the solder melted.
The nasty beam ring artefacts when fully zoomed annoy me a LOT in real life frequent use, i’ll have to emulate Djozz’s black paint mod
My lights get used to “show off” indoors more than anything (I live in a city apartment, and don’t get out as much as I would like to) and ugly beams don’t impress 
When I am actually outside with them, it doesn’t matter nearly as much.
Suit yourself guys. I have mirror foil on the order. I plan to put it around emitter and in combination with precolimator lenses I plan to get spill effect and pump bit more lumens. As for the black paint: once when even tiny particle of paint gets on led burnout follows :) Maybe that will not happen to you... Maybe it will happen to lets say your buyer if you are selling some.
Nah I don’t usually sell. I’ll cover the emitter with a straw to protect it, but worst case scenario I have to replace a $2 LED
Why not? You can buy 5 B158 sell 4, one stays with you for free :)
But mostly "poor" people like myself have to think this way. If I would have decent monthly incoming I would definitely not do this selling stuff.