Thanks. Great suggestions. I believe the amp I got is < 6A although is 18x 7135 (=6300 mA) due to high resistance.
Before increasing to higher Amp, the next thing I need to add is a better Heatsink. The brightness decrease rapidly after switching on the power, I believe is due to temperature increment. The original Alu pill is not sinking the heat fast enough.
Makes me wonder if the Illuminations Machines Lum 5-90 would fit in there and maybe give some space to raise the shelf, use copper and replace the shelf completely with a thicker copper version. Might be worth looking into. While those are only about $5 each, they make you buy like 5 at a time. A group buy here would easily manage the purchase requirements.
Also, the Lum 5-90 isn’t as robust as that original reflector, it can be trimmed with scissors pretty easily. 
If he’s getting 6amps at the tail, it would be 3amps to each 3v die. Very rough example: 6amps at 6v = 36watts = 12amps at 3v split between 4 dies = 3amps each.
I thought about this briefly, but the Boss reflector is pretty shallow. I think you would actually have to extend the bezel somehow for it to fit. (which is a bummer)
Sorry for the interjection here folks, gotta wrap my feeble mind around this while the opportunity is present… I know the XHP-70 has 2S2P on the 4 dies, and is 6V in that configuration. So with 6A, each pair is getting 3A at 6V. Since it’s the voltage getting split, the amperage remains the same? Is that it? Like an inverse of doubling cells in series keeps capacity at single cell level and doubles voltage, parallel cells doubles capacity and keeps voltage at single cell, so because the paired 3V emitters are splitting the 6V power supply, the amperge remains the same at 3A, ok, I can see that. Hope I can remember it. (you noticed my statement was flagging my memory, even if I couldn’t remember why, lol)
Ok then, we know the XM-L2 or XP-L die can take 5A+, so there’s headroom either way. 
Some 4A to be had there, Go for it! hahaha
(yes, I have destroyed plenty of expensive emitters in my time. How about slipping and crashing the bond wires on a bare Luminous SBT-70? I like to remove the window, the AR coating gets in the way, yeah, that was a cursing, cringe producing moment to be sure.)
Yup
Okay, let me make sure I’ve got this straight…
If I buy my wife 2 boxes of chocolates, her smile lasts a limited time but her capacity of enjoyment increases. If I buy her chocolates AND a bouquet of flowers, her capacity of enjoyment remains the same but her smile lasts longer. Right?
Oh, and mentioning her increased capacity shortens my life span, like an abused high discharge cell.
A UCLp lens is officially listed for this light now, here: https://www.flashlightlens.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=display&ref=apps_specs 
, and I got the first on the way 
.
Nice work Tom! So do I put the horse… order the lens… before the cart… before the light? I DO have several other sizes I’ve been intending to order….
We need to know where this stands with freeme. I haven't talked/pm'ed to him at all on this. He's got a decent # signed up, not great #'s, but didn't expect that - pretty specialized. CWK looks like he did a nice job for an XHP70, could have been pushed higher though, and I set mine up more for max throwing, but I'm still nowhere near where I want it to be. Both though show the potential.
What CWK did though could also work with a buck driver, driving a XP-G2 at high amps. If a copper heat sink could be machined to fit in place with the aluminum shelf, or replace the shelf, it would be pretty awesome.
What I'm wait'n on is:
Hello, I am right here.
I did propose to Neal to see if manufacturer is able to corporate with us to improve on the little parts like retaining rings, screw threads, etc. Communication has been slow... Kind of stuck in the 56K modem era. Probably we have not achieved the number a decent number to expedite this project.
If you guys feel that current quality is acceptable, he should be able to get it up within a week. What you guys think?
I’m running low on cash at the moment (other flashlight purchases) so I can wait, but I’ll let the other list members decide what they want to do. I’m fine with how it is now.
I can’t really add either as I have the ability to make whatever changes I deem fit and appropriate. I’ll machine a new copper emitter shelf and give it more depth with some flared shoulders on top for total mass, not a problem to get it ready to run hard. Might even thread the area where it sits so the new copper piece threads in snug without screws to hold it down. Would have to have it in hand to figure all that out though.
Obviously, I’ll do things not easily accomplished without a lathe, so I’m just riding on the back of the wagon waiting for it all to shake loose.
Boy, those are the only two issues I have some concerns about - the body-head threads and the driver retaining ring. I'd say give it a little more time to see if improvements in those two areas could be worked out. If they can't, don't think all is lost. I'd order another one. So far, the threads and retaining ring are holding up fine for me. I'm more concerned about the body threads than the retainer ring, because if I resell these modded, the buyer has to deal with the body tube threads every time they change/charge cells, while I'm the only one who should be dealing with the retaining ring. Plus there's other reasonable options with the retaining ring (glue like an SRK for example), and much more involved in fixing up or improving the body threads.
Thinking if I can sand down those brass bumps with a rotary tool, it would help. Also might help using shorter springs, or cutting them down. Right now to get the threading to start, it can be a little struggle. Certainly a ring like SRK's or the COURUI (or Crelant 7G9) would be better, but my machining abilities are limited.
Sand the nubs down to almost nothing, find a big-enough zinc-steel washer, and solder it over the top of the nubs. It worked great with my SP03
Tom, I could cut you some rings from copper or brass, no big deal on the lathe. Just shout out some dims and we’ll go from there. Mine’s a manual set-up, so I can’t just dial up a number and let it run, but I can turn a few ya know?
Hhmm... Just wondering if the brass knobs are better pts of contact than a ring for these flat top EFEST 26650's... The spring, specially with the bypass wires, is probably just too much force
are the body threads such a nightmare even when you apply some lube and shorten the springs and get rid of the knobs?
They're my major concern from the pics. Very few and very sharp From the looks of it. They can be a pain in the butt, based on other soupcan lights I've come across with similar threads.
For me, dunno - didn't do any of that yet 
. Mostly it's the springs I'm fighting, I believe, but the bumps don't make it any easier. Hhmm - think I only lightly lubes them, mainly the o-rings. It's also so awkward because it's so darn big and heavy - SRK's are sooo much easier handling.
Ohhh - I had it in a bag, mil style, with a pull string around the top. Fumbled with my hands full loading it and couple of other things into the back seat of my car, 1st day of wearing gloves - 12F outside that morn, and I freak'n dropped it in the seat, then it rolled out the door on the blacktop. Only a slight ding at the tail - it might have slipped out of the bag on the tail end. The o-ring around the lens popped out about half around, and was easy to get back in. From that I believe the reflector isn't tight in there - some play at the front end of the bezel. Gotta check, but think the UCLp is a little thicker, so may make it tighter, or may have to add a copper shim under the Noctigon MCPCB.
Hmm, not really sure what to do now! Kinda low on cash but that is not a biggest issue.
There are just to many things that need to be addressed so this light could be “wow light”,
making a new LED shelf and a brass ring to replace battery contacts (I predicted they will be a problem) on a driver, this require tools that I do not have or have access to, machining shop would strip me for at least 30€ just to make this 2 things, + XHP35Hi (yes I would like to go that route) + new driver … additional 60$ on top of the light’s price to make something out of it.
Now, making a proper LED shelf and battery contacts by manufacturer would mean tremendous help for guys without the lathe.
And not to forget that awful handle, that needs to be dealt with also…
I like the looks and huge reflector but I am not sure that buying it would be right thing to do…