Yes, nothing happens. I can “embrace” a whole flashlight tube but read nothing significant.
I guess that’s mainly because you are embracing both the ways of the current. To make a measure current has to flow just in one direction.
If you go around your house clamping every power cable of your domestic devices even in AC you won’t see a thing. That’s because you can only measure 1 conductor. If you think about it it’s pretty obvious
Yeah I suppose you’re right, I’m just not too familiar with the particulars of the Hall Effect. What about clamping the battery?
You could always split those dual wire power lines from lamps and toasters and such, clamp one wire. The cell itself you couldn’t read, power through in 2 directions same as the flashlight tube.
If a driver has long enough leads to separate it from the driver bay you might be able to put the clamp on a driver lead. That would show current going in to the driver as the switch allows. I like to desolder the negative from the mcpcb and put a length of wire between the lead and the pad so I can get the clamp on it, that gives actual emitter current. In that way you can test a light like the Meteor that has 4 triples, you’re reading the current as it comes away from the emitters. Separating any one is tough though.
I am interested in the Uni-T clamp meter, what do I need to do to join the group buy?
Any idea about when will be available???
Could happen within the next 7days. We are approaching to 50pax soon.
Interested in one, thanks.
What are we looking at for cost on this unit? Looked at both threads but did not see it.
Not published yet, but should be <$30
Sorry couldn't wait any longer 
, not knowing the price or when. Ordered one from TomTop, $33.85 shipped w/tracking, DHL from US warehouse. Never bought anything from tomtop before, but it's PayPal...
I'm getting desperate with all these amp reading issues goin on as of late. I've been using the UNI-T UT50B, bought from FastTech ($33.63), for two years now and I feel it's been rock solid, pretty accurate and consistent. Also got a UNI-T UT33C for even longer, still working very well, but I kill the batteries all the time from leaving it on. the UT50B at least has an auto shutoff.
Weird, when I went through their checkout the lowest price I could get was $36 shipped no tracking. Anyways, I’ll hold out for longer . The prelim price Freeme told me in PM was a fair bit better than TomTop, and if we hit 50 pieces it might go even lower still. The only thing that would make me jump ship was if we got too close to Chinese New Year, but I don’t think that’s going to happen. Things seem to be progressing quickly. I’ll keep you all posted.
I think I'd like to stay on the list though - could use two 
. Just figure it's gonna be via BangGood, or other China source so would take time. TomTop has the 210E marked down now - reg price was $37.
tomtop has some very good prices on lights as well, but looks very limited, mostly dated. J18 for $30 for example.
I’m also curious about knowing the final price, hopefully freeme or pd68 will tell me via PM if it won’t be public 0:)
interested if less than $30 us
thanks for your efforts
interested
Interested depending on price.
Any news on the GB, folks??
Well, I’m wondering myself
Yes it would be nice to now. There are over 70 people signed up, so the problem definitely isn’t lack of interest on the part of buyers. However I don’t have a lot of patience. If the GB doesn’t happen within the next week, I’ll probably just buy one elsewhere. They can be bought for about $36 from US based Sellers on eBay. The box I see is that if the GB doesn’t happen in the next week or so, we are looking at a roughly 4 week delay because of Chinese New Year, so delivery ends up Late February-Early March. Don’t know about others, but generally I buy things because I need them, and I tend to need them sooner rather than later. It doesn’t seem to me that 6-8 week delivery time frame is worth the $5-$8 we may save on the GB.
Got a UT210E today from Tomtop - wow, excellent! I thought my DMM setup was pretty tweaked, but did a couple of quick comparisons, measuring at the tail. I got 14 AWG leads on my DMM, and used a short 16 AWG wire looped thru the clamp meter wit wire from the cell minus to the battery tube edge:
- new Nitefighter F30B stock: 2.31A on the DMM, 2.41A on the UT210E
- fully modded Convoy L2 (dedomed U4 1C, FET+1 driver): 5.09A on the DMM, 5.43A on the UT210E
This is sort of what I might expect - low amps close, high amps the clamp meter shows higher. Still I was thinking in the 3A and below range, my DM tail readings were pretty good, matching well with the # of 7135's I'm using in the drivers.
UT210E readings are with ZERO'ing before taking readings, and using the 20A scale.
For the group buy, freeme has been OD'ed on GB's, so he's catch'n up now - should happen real soon (hoping...), along with the BOSS1. I think GB's out of the norm are probably more involved, norm being stock Olight, SWM, NiteCore, etc...