Groupbuy for UNI-T UT210e clamp meter for tailcap current readings

Yes it would be nice to now. There are over 70 people signed up, so the problem definitely isn’t lack of interest on the part of buyers. However I don’t have a lot of patience. If the GB doesn’t happen within the next week, I’ll probably just buy one elsewhere. They can be bought for about $36 from US based Sellers on eBay. The box I see is that if the GB doesn’t happen in the next week or so, we are looking at a roughly 4 week delay because of Chinese New Year, so delivery ends up Late February-Early March. Don’t know about others, but generally I buy things because I need them, and I tend to need them sooner rather than later. It doesn’t seem to me that 6-8 week delivery time frame is worth the $5-$8 we may save on the GB.

Got a UT210E today from Tomtop - wow, excellent! I thought my DMM setup was pretty tweaked, but did a couple of quick comparisons, measuring at the tail. I got 14 AWG leads on my DMM, and used a short 16 AWG wire looped thru the clamp meter wit wire from the cell minus to the battery tube edge:

  • new Nitefighter F30B stock: 2.31A on the DMM, 2.41A on the UT210E

  • fully modded Convoy L2 (dedomed U4 1C, FET+1 driver): 5.09A on the DMM, 5.43A on the UT210E

This is sort of what I might expect - low amps close, high amps the clamp meter shows higher. Still I was thinking in the 3A and below range, my DM tail readings were pretty good, matching well with the # of 7135's I'm using in the drivers.

UT210E readings are with ZERO'ing before taking readings, and using the 20A scale.

For the group buy, freeme has been OD'ed on GB's, so he's catch'n up now - should happen real soon (hoping...), along with the BOSS1. I think GB's out of the norm are probably more involved, norm being stock Olight, SWM, NiteCore, etc...

Thanks for the update Tom E. Does your clamp meter hold a steady reading or does it waver slightly?

I will PM to all in awhile.

That’s exciting… Should I wait up? :wink:

Very nice, if soon can start ordering

Tom, do you have any Triple’s you could measure? On that theme of more is more, it’d be interesting to see what would happen at the top end of your DMM.
I have single cell lights pulling 17-21Amps. One is even a single emitter light! This alone is worth getting the clamp meter for, as the DMM would surely fry up there.

Ah hell. Add me to the list also.

Firts unit ordered, great and many thanks to freeme !!
Second as well.

Received PM. Thanks freeme! I will order asap!!

UT210E ordered. Thank you!

UT210E ordered. Thank you freeme!
Hope it gets shipped before Chinese Newyear. Waiting to compare the readings of this one to those of my old DMM.

I have this meter for more than a year and half and I really don't know how to zero it :)

I also got much higher readings than with dmm for high current draw lights.

Also I would suggest very hard press to both surfaces (battery - and exposed aluminum on flashlight, or you could get lower readings).

What happens if you turn the cable the other way around in the clamp?
I got a UNI-T UT203 that I useally use for higher amp readings and when I messure it with the cables the other way I got higher readings.

PM the info please.

I’m on the list Freeme, could you send me the code? thanks for your efforts !

My DMM is rated up to 20A (UT50B here at FT), so don't think it's a problem, maybe?? I do have a couple triples - one S2, one X6, one quad X6, one quad SupFire.

I did do some quick testing on that - pretty sure when the clamp meter read negative, the amps readings was lower. @work now - no access.

Mine has a black button labeled: ZERO, press it, and the reading zeroes ?? Yes - I do always press hard, but also found a little NO-OX-ID treatment helps bump up the readings by improving connectivity at the contact points.

Again over the years, very consistent 2.9A to 3.0A readings with my DMM on 2.8A Nanjg 350 7135 drivers, so always thought my DMM setup was dead-on accurate for these relatively low amp readings. Again, drivers with 350 7135's always read high, 380 7135's always read low. Others have commented on the same thing.

I really need to do more head-to-head testing though, plus I didn't do it today, but plan on bringing my lights/meters into work and compare against the o-scopes with clamp meter attachments we have here. We got Tektronix, Fluke, and I was told the clamp meter attachments were pretty expensive, but I'll get more info on the equipment first. Don't think we do much here with this level of DC voltage at amps this high, but not sure.

One thing to consider is that the meter type has a much bigger impact on DD lights than current-regulated lights.

You can use a multi-meter with a relatively high burden voltage (shunt + fuse + leads resistance) and it will give good results with a regulated light. The driver will simply compensate to get to the correct output current, as long as the cell voltage is high enough.

But that high burden voltage will make a significant difference when measuring a DD light.