Brinyte B158 mod thread

For painting the inside of the lens area around the LED, would something like Plasti Dip work?

It is pretty matte and easy to use, doesn’t flake for those using dedomed emitters. If you mask off the LED and spray several layers, the mask pulls off with a clean line when you pull it off wet.

Just asking and I will give it a shot when my B158 gets in.

I tried plastidip spray with my 1405. It wasn’t the greatest, not as matte as I expected. I went with high-heat engine paint for my 158

Goes well with an XP-G2 and 2.8A driver. :slight_smile:

Is anyone selling a complete modded pill?

I put LD-2 driver into the pill add XP-G2 S4 2B de-domed and got 2,10 Amps reading on tail-cup (CAT III 1KV 10 A (silicone leads)
I put also BLF A6 A17DD-L FET driver and got same readings more or less 2 A

Does XP-G2 S4 2B LED, limits amps up 2A ?

Using same setup with xml 2 led both drivers, i got 2,85 Amps max. on tail-cup, It is higher than on XP-G2 S4 2B.
Do i got low amps XP-G2 S4 2B leds ? I want more Amps 4-5A would be great.

The LD-2 has a low resistance fet and will limit current to whatever the sense resistor sets it to but does not take into account parasitic resistance in the host.
Take the tail switch apart and clean it and put it back together.
Make sure you have a good driver ground.
Make sure the pill is screwed in tight and that the end of the tube it is screwed into is not anodized under the brass lip.
Make sure the switch retainer is snug.
Bypass the springs and use fat leads on your meter.

I made messurings without host and used both drivers. I pressed driver against battery” + “. and touched leads directly to driver and battery’s ” - “. The LD2/A6 have spring bypss. I got no more than 2.10 Amps on xpg- 2 using A6 driver and , around 2.85 Amps on LD 2, ln host it’s 2.55 Amps. So without host am getting more Amps on LD2 but still below 3. Why is it so ? Why so low readings on A6. Don’t know what is going on.

What battery?

Out of interest, I had an old XR-E lying around from an SK68. A Q5 maybe - who really knows? :wink:

I sat it on a smear of thermal grease, and hooked up this driver that I had in the parts bin.

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1122301

Burns right through my XP-G2 running on this driver:

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1127403

Furthermore, I ran an XP-E2 red on a Noctigon with the 2.1A driver and it was no brighter than the stock red pill, that I could tell by eye.

Samsung 30Q , why so low Amps below 3, on both drivers with xpg 2?

DMM leads - stock ones never work well, never. You will even get inconsistent results, so whatever you report won't matter til you can give us a real readings with heavy wire leads.

Mmm, disappointing. Is everybody experiencing the same? blitzwing, would have been great if you could do a ceiling bounce between stock and XP-E2 to see the difference.

To get high amps you need to eliminate places where there are voltage drops which are due to resistance. The common places are protection circuits on cells, internal cell resistance, bad switches, coated steel springs, poor ground connections, poor led connections, thin dmm leads, inadequate surface to surface connections, less than optimal fet choices, any or all of these will drop voltage robbing the circuit of the potential of dropping it across the LED instead at higher current. Without seeing your set up all we can do is point to possible sources for you to check.

I figured it wasn’t worth persevering with after a white wall side by side test between a stock light and the modded one.

Presumably Brinyte is driving the XP-E2 pretty hard straight from the factory.

As far as I know they use XP-E LEDs…. If the brightness is very much the same, they’re probably using the highest binned XP-Es - P2 / P3.

Did anybody maybe measure amps at the tail for the red / green models?

I just got my B158 and I love it after putting in a MTN-17DDm driver and dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B. I am interested in doing a green led pill. I didn’t order the green version, but I have an extra pill to play with. Does anyone have an led/driver recommendation for a green setup? Alternatively, does anyone know where I could buy the stock green pill only? Thanks

You’d probably want to use a Qlite driver or something that uses 7135’s, If I remember correctly the best driver current for a green XP-E2 is somewhere in the 2-2.4amp range (on a DTP mcpcb). If you’re stateside I think I have a green XP-E2 just sitting around I could send you for cheap, but no Noctigon to go with it.

Rufusbduck, this is my setup: bare driver LD-2 soldered to XPG2 LED and 30Q all measured without host using my DMM leads -10A 1KV CAT III- directly (they looking pretty thick to me) Why so low Amps ?

http://postimg.org/image/hnq7477tb/


Here is a few pictures of different leds in the B158 and a couple of ring ins as I had them on me at the time. Distance to the dog house is 150 meters. Light conditions were poor with a full moon.

Firstly my C83 to show the scene.

Stock light.

XPL HI stock driver.

XPE2 Torch led 2.1 amp driver.

XPE2 Red stock driver.

XPE2 Red/Orange stock driver.

BLF D80.

ZYT08 Aluminium reflector XPL HI BLF TK DD driver.

Nice, great beamshots! Question has buying a flashlight ever caused you to sleep there?