Samsung 30Q , why so low Amps below 3, on both drivers with xpg 2?
DMM leads - stock ones never work well, never. You will even get inconsistent results, so whatever you report won't matter til you can give us a real readings with heavy wire leads.
Mmm, disappointing. Is everybody experiencing the same? blitzwing, would have been great if you could do a ceiling bounce between stock and XP-E2 to see the difference.
To get high amps you need to eliminate places where there are voltage drops which are due to resistance. The common places are protection circuits on cells, internal cell resistance, bad switches, coated steel springs, poor ground connections, poor led connections, thin dmm leads, inadequate surface to surface connections, less than optimal fet choices, any or all of these will drop voltage robbing the circuit of the potential of dropping it across the LED instead at higher current. Without seeing your set up all we can do is point to possible sources for you to check.
I figured it wasn’t worth persevering with after a white wall side by side test between a stock light and the modded one.
Presumably Brinyte is driving the XP-E2 pretty hard straight from the factory.
As far as I know they use XP-E LEDs…. If the brightness is very much the same, they’re probably using the highest binned XP-Es - P2 / P3.
Did anybody maybe measure amps at the tail for the red / green models?
I just got my B158 and I love it after putting in a MTN-17DDm driver and dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B. I am interested in doing a green led pill. I didn’t order the green version, but I have an extra pill to play with. Does anyone have an led/driver recommendation for a green setup? Alternatively, does anyone know where I could buy the stock green pill only? Thanks
You’d probably want to use a Qlite driver or something that uses 7135’s, If I remember correctly the best driver current for a green XP-E2 is somewhere in the 2-2.4amp range (on a DTP mcpcb). If you’re stateside I think I have a green XP-E2 just sitting around I could send you for cheap, but no Noctigon to go with it.
Rufusbduck, this is my setup: bare driver LD-2 soldered to XPG2 LED and 30Q all measured without host using my DMM leads -10A 1KV CAT III- directly (they looking pretty thick to me) Why so low Amps ?
http://postimg.org/image/hnq7477tb/
Here is a few pictures of different leds in the B158 and a couple of ring ins as I had them on me at the time. Distance to the dog house is 150 meters. Light conditions were poor with a full moon.
Firstly my C83 to show the scene.
Stock light.
XPL HI stock driver.
XPE2 Torch led 2.1 amp driver.
XPE2 Red stock driver.
XPE2 Red/Orange stock driver.
BLF D80.
ZYT08 Aluminium reflector XPL HI BLF TK DD driver.
Nice, great beamshots! Question has buying a flashlight ever caused you to sleep there?
Maybe. 
XP-L Hi seems to make a fair difference!
Thanks for the clear beamshots, Steve. Actually I like the C83 best :bigsmile: , but I do not know what flashlight that is??
with a samsung 25r
Got around 60kcd stock
130 kcd with xpl-hi + removed driver
150 kcd with xpl-hi + removed driver + spring bypass
Cheers. The old XR-E @ 2.1A is fun in this light. Very narrow beam and long throw. 
When you get sent to the dog house the missus ain’t foolin’ around.
I dont know many women folk that fool around RBD. Unfortunately I'm about 5 times bigger than the dog house and with the sacked assistants trying to get in there isn't a lot of room. 
I'm sure you remember the C83 djozz as you were the second person to comment. It still brings a smile to my dial on high.
Link to C83,
Holy crap that’s awesome.
Could I put this reverse clicky switch into the B158?
If not, which one?
I haven’t received the light but from what I understand it comes with a forward switch. But I’d love a reverse switch.