What did you mod today?

I finally found, and replaced the reflector to my TrustFire T6-F16.

The reflector original was for a SSC P7 (then adapted to receive an XM-L) and deep 20,5mm.; I put one of 24.3 mm. with a reflector double level. Now the flashlight has reached its harmony, with a gradation between the center and the border.


The new reflector

I also replaced the driver, now it has 7135*8

Man, did he (Firelight2) say his DQG tiny does 3100 lm? That is crazy!

Awesome thread by the way!

Modded a Plano Stowaway 3400 to hold 16 laptop pulls. Cut down some of the ribs in the lid.

4.96 Stowaway from Wallyworld
10 minutes
1 knife
1 band aid

I’m actually interested to see pictures of this one (if you can). I’ve been looking for a better way to store loose cells. I had thought about using a shotgun shell carrier, but I haven’t found one I like yet.

Will get some pics.

The 3 ribs in the lid had to be taken down a little. I used a knife with push style blade.
A chisel or rotary tool might work better.

I didn’t take the topic of storage seriously a few week’s ago, I should have just in case.

Just posted my first 2 REAL mods a little while ago…….

Needle files sets all have round profiles and are small enough to be useful for flashlight work. Most cheap sets are crappy on steel but work fine on softer metals.

Phil

Not much here… I finally did replace the emitter in my Thorfire KL02 with a WW-tinted fried egg, which is much nicer than the CW tint that is used in that light. Fortunately, I had some good spares in my kit that don’t have the nasty greenish tint that so many of those have.

Continuing to tinker with my EDC lights. Modded 4 lights the last couple weeks:

DQG 18650 Tiny III with 3.8 amp mokkadrv driver: (extremely classy-looking small triple with chrome accents with great grip).

  • Replaced triple XPL HI 3C emitters with triple XPL HI 3D.
  • Replaced extra o-ring at bezel with acrylic lens with filed edges (needed to keep the triple TIR optic from falling out).

DQG 18650 Tiny III with FET driver: (3000 lumen ultra-compact pocket light. Looks beat up but works great)

  • Replaced triple XPL HI 3C emitters with triple XPL HI 3D.
  • Rebuilt switch to allow for more “click”.
  • Modified homemade copper switch piston for improved look and feel.
  • carved horizontal grooves in external heatsink sleeve to improve grip.
  • repainted heatsink sleeve to more closely match anodizing.
  • Removed and reapplied brush-on superglue to nickel-plated brass ring around button (to insulate thumb from heat).

Aleto N8 zoomie with fresnel lens: (at around 87mm long, world’s shortest 1x18650 zoomie. 25k lux)

  • Replaced XPL HI 3C emitter with XPL HI 3D.

Aleto N8 zoomie with 20mm aspheric lens: (93 mm long with 44k lux. very throwy and compact 1x18650 zoomie)

  • Replaced XPL HI 3C emitter with XPL HI 3D.
  • Rebuilt switch housing for improved look and feel. With previous setup rubber button protruded slightly but was extremely stiff to prevent accidental pocket activation. New build requires much softer touch to activate but has a raised aluminum ring shielding the button.

I modded a Lumintop Tool by putting a 11mm fet and a XP-L V6 1A led in it. I had to grind the inside and bottom of the reflector a little bit to get the the led to fit correctly, this was after I accidentally dedomed it…of course. Just make sure you don’t pay any attention to the scratches. The driver is flashed with Guppydrv firmware. She puts out quite a few lumens, I don’t have anything to measure with so I compared it to a BLF A6 that I have with a XP-L V6 1A emitter. I also put a Nichia 219C in a Solarforce LC2 host with a fet+1 with A6 firmware and a smooth reflector. Here’s a few pics…






Here’s a few beamshot comparisons between the Lumintop Tool and a BLF A6 from lowest to highest mode.







Just replaced the switch in my quad-219c Convoy M2. The last switch didn’t like 15+ amps very much…

Just swapped the LED in my Skilhunt H02 from a nasty cool white to a nice XM-L2 5A, perfect for headlamp duty. For now that’s all I’m going to do to this one. This may be the first of any of my lights to escape a driver swap.

I found that the 26650 zoomy, that I have been using with a diffuser as an overhead light, had a LatticeBright LED.

While I was replacing that with a neutral white LM-L2, I put in a Noctigon star and a 6 x 7135 driver.

It’s the Best Mod Ever! (sung to the tune of)

So, I replaced the XP-E emitter in my giveaway Rayvenge headlamp over the weekend with a high-CRI Nichia 219b:

Other than the great tint (which actually wasn’t too bad on the original emitter)

This completely does away with the annoying horrible/messy/donut-shaped hotspot of the original emitter! Now, the beam is smooth and much more useful! It may have been that I just got lucky with a slightly-different spacing, but it’s much nicer now. Unfortunately, there’s an occasional flicker due to the small diameter wire used on the LED leads getting kinked, but I can fix that easily enough…

A while back I got ahold of a stock Uniquefire UF-2200. Basic 26650 light with XM-L and an ok driver. I felt it had more potential, so off I went to collect parts. Replace LED with XM-L2 2C on Noctigon, replaced switch with Omten, replaced driver with freshly build MTN 17DDm, braided the tailcap spring and refit the plunger, braided the driver spring and put her back together! Much better now, but my meter only showed me 3.55 amps with a good battery???
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So, today I set off to build some decent leads for my meter. My 12awg silicone wire came in yesterday and I already had banana plugs. This was to much metal for a small tipped soldering iron, out came the butane micro torch! I love to solder with a torch, very energizing!

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Now I see that she pulls 4.92 amps! No wonder it is so bright. BTW, this was with one of Richard’s SupFire 26605’s!

Matt

A bit late getting this done, but I finally did… Not much of a mod either…

My GearBest Camo SK68 got a much needed mod… I used the pencil-trick to remove the last mode memory; now the light always starts on high (which is still fairly low). I also replaced the factory LB ultra-blue cool white XP-E clone with a true XP-E2 from my parts box. Much better tint now…

Got a Convoy branded bare bones model of the Rocher F6 a couple weeks back. Ordered a 3 pack of Ferrero-Rocher driver boards from Oshpark and put it all together this evening. The switch was a bit tricky as the prongs from the original switch are too close together to fit into the Ferrero-Rocher holes. Some bending and soldering fixed that. I put the original XM-L2 on a noctigon, the tint was pretty good for a CW.

I upgraded to 22 AWG wire, making it impossible to put the driver in via the twisted wire method but shorter wires are better anyway. The driver was flashed with Toykeeper's excellent ramping firmware. That firmware is so awesome I've been tearing apart lights and converting to momentary switches just to use it. I've got three mags and two side switch lights converted so far. Anyway, nice light now, pulls about 4A on a samsung 26f laptop pull and 4.8A on an efest 35A.

I’m waiting on a whole bunch of parts from China, but in the meantime I’ve been spending time in Eagle and money at Oshpark