Not much here… I finally did replace the emitter in my Thorfire KL02 with a WW-tinted fried egg, which is much nicer than the CW tint that is used in that light. Fortunately, I had some good spares in my kit that don’t have the nasty greenish tint that so many of those have.
Continuing to tinker with my EDC lights. Modded 4 lights the last couple weeks:
DQG 18650 Tiny III with 3.8 amp mokkadrv driver: (extremely classy-looking small triple with chrome accents with great grip).
- Replaced triple XPL HI 3C emitters with triple XPL HI 3D.
- Replaced extra o-ring at bezel with acrylic lens with filed edges (needed to keep the triple TIR optic from falling out).
DQG 18650 Tiny III with FET driver: (3000 lumen ultra-compact pocket light. Looks beat up but works great)
- Replaced triple XPL HI 3C emitters with triple XPL HI 3D.
- Rebuilt switch to allow for more “click”.
- Modified homemade copper switch piston for improved look and feel.
- carved horizontal grooves in external heatsink sleeve to improve grip.
- repainted heatsink sleeve to more closely match anodizing.
- Removed and reapplied brush-on superglue to nickel-plated brass ring around button (to insulate thumb from heat).
Aleto N8 zoomie with fresnel lens: (at around 87mm long, world’s shortest 1x18650 zoomie. 25k lux)
- Replaced XPL HI 3C emitter with XPL HI 3D.
Aleto N8 zoomie with 20mm aspheric lens: (93 mm long with 44k lux. very throwy and compact 1x18650 zoomie)
- Replaced XPL HI 3C emitter with XPL HI 3D.
- Rebuilt switch housing for improved look and feel. With previous setup rubber button protruded slightly but was extremely stiff to prevent accidental pocket activation. New build requires much softer touch to activate but has a raised aluminum ring shielding the button.
I modded a Lumintop Tool by putting a 11mm fet and a XP-L V6 1A led in it. I had to grind the inside and bottom of the reflector a little bit to get the the led to fit correctly, this was after I accidentally dedomed it…of course. Just make sure you don’t pay any attention to the scratches. The driver is flashed with Guppydrv firmware. She puts out quite a few lumens, I don’t have anything to measure with so I compared it to a BLF A6 that I have with a XP-L V6 1A emitter. I also put a Nichia 219C in a Solarforce LC2 host with a fet+1 with A6 firmware and a smooth reflector. Here’s a few pics…
Here’s a few beamshot comparisons between the Lumintop Tool and a BLF A6 from lowest to highest mode.
Just replaced the switch in my quad-219c Convoy M2. The last switch didn’t like 15+ amps very much…
Just swapped the LED in my Skilhunt H02 from a nasty cool white to a nice XM-L2 5A, perfect for headlamp duty. For now that’s all I’m going to do to this one. This may be the first of any of my lights to escape a driver swap.
I found that the 26650 zoomy, that I have been using with a diffuser as an overhead light, had a LatticeBright LED.
While I was replacing that with a neutral white LM-L2, I put in a Noctigon star and a 6 x 7135 driver.
It’s the Best Mod Ever! (sung to the tune of)
So, I replaced the XP-E emitter in my giveaway Rayvenge headlamp over the weekend with a high-CRI Nichia 219b:
Other than the great tint (which actually wasn’t too bad on the original emitter)
This completely does away with the annoying horrible/messy/donut-shaped hotspot of the original emitter! Now, the beam is smooth and much more useful! It may have been that I just got lucky with a slightly-different spacing, but it’s much nicer now. Unfortunately, there’s an occasional flicker due to the small diameter wire used on the LED leads getting kinked, but I can fix that easily enough…
A while back I got ahold of a stock Uniquefire UF-2200. Basic 26650 light with XM-L and an ok driver. I felt it had more potential, so off I went to collect parts. Replace LED with XM-L2 2C on Noctigon, replaced switch with Omten, replaced driver with freshly build MTN 17DDm, braided the tailcap spring and refit the plunger, braided the driver spring and put her back together! Much better now, but my meter only showed me 3.55 amps with a good battery???
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So, today I set off to build some decent leads for my meter. My 12awg silicone wire came in yesterday and I already had banana plugs. This was to much metal for a small tipped soldering iron, out came the butane micro torch! I love to solder with a torch, very energizing!
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Now I see that she pulls 4.92 amps! No wonder it is so bright. BTW, this was with one of Richard’s SupFire 26605’s!
Matt
A bit late getting this done, but I finally did… Not much of a mod either…
My GearBest Camo SK68 got a much needed mod… I used the pencil-trick to remove the last mode memory; now the light always starts on high (which is still fairly low). I also replaced the factory LB ultra-blue cool white XP-E clone with a true XP-E2 from my parts box. Much better tint now…
Got a Convoy branded bare bones model of the Rocher F6 a couple weeks back. Ordered a 3 pack of Ferrero-Rocher driver boards from Oshpark and put it all together this evening. The switch was a bit tricky as the prongs from the original switch are too close together to fit into the Ferrero-Rocher holes. Some bending and soldering fixed that. I put the original XM-L2 on a noctigon, the tint was pretty good for a CW.
I upgraded to 22 AWG wire, making it impossible to put the driver in via the twisted wire method but shorter wires are better anyway. The driver was flashed with Toykeeper's excellent ramping firmware. That firmware is so awesome I've been tearing apart lights and converting to momentary switches just to use it. I've got three mags and two side switch lights converted so far. Anyway, nice light now, pulls about 4A on a samsung 26f laptop pull and 4.8A on an efest 35A.
I’m waiting on a whole bunch of parts from China, but in the meantime I’ve been spending time in Eagle and money at Oshpark
UltraFire C2 that i got around 12 years ago
Didnt even know what light mod is till i found this website not long ago , thats why it took so long to make C2 rock 
Anyway i replaced original driver with XR-E in it with 7135*8 3.04A driving XM-L2 U3 2C , and damn
It gets warm on high but not crazy hot and its crazy bright
My 1st mod ever btw
A Romisen RC-A6 Classic review: Romisen RC-A6.
I put in a pencil moded driver from a #3 zoomie and a Nichia.
I just did something I’ve literally never done before. I put a first-gen XM-L into a light.
I modded in a new switch in my Balder SE1 to replace the one I blew. It’s a totally different type of setup, so I had to do the modding mambo. Soldered copper braid onto the PCB to make contact with the un-anodized threads.
Shoved her in nice and tight. The braid seems to be making good contact
Cranked down the stock nylon retaining ring. That’ll squish the copper braid into the threads bice and securely
There you go. Looks good when it’s all covered up, and works great. Way better than the original that I think was really meant for AAA lights.
Today i have modded a trustfire 3t6, i changed leds from 3x xm-l to 3x dual nichia 219A.
A bit too much work in the end I’d say, since it ended up having a donut hotspot :~
I had hoped that somehow the 3 reflectors would help against that
You really shouldn’t be getting a donut. I think if you try getting the reflector lower, or the emitters higher. Thin centering discs or paper gasket. Maybe sand down the centering rings you have. Did this light always have a donut?
It sounds like he put two nichias in each reflector, and that’s what’s giving the donut
It tried that once with a c8 and XP-G2… Big fail
Made a Convoy C8 with dual channel 105C-based driver running bistro, 10x AMC7135 + 1x AMC7135, and XP-L HI V2 3D. Played around with it for a short while, didn’t like beam that much. Would have done further adjustments, but than I saw a big black spot on the DIE. Bummer. Hadn’t had that happen until now. What could cause such a failure? The LED was bought already mounted on 20mm noctigon from IOS. Normally I reflow them myself…