Review: Manker U11. Built in charger, compact 18650 Eswitch Light. 3.6A on Turbo, Beamshots added.

I like it too, and the turbo 2 mode is very well regulated which for my purposes - cross country running - is a big bonus.

My 22 year old MetraHit 18 has 10nA resolution.

No, didn’t measure. And now can’t measure because I sold it already.

I decided to remove the clip on mine, to remove it without bending the clip or causing any scratches on the HA3 finish I used a shoelace to slide it under the clip right next to the base where it attaches to the flashlight, then wrap the shoelace to your index finger and pull straight out, grab the rest of the clip with your other fingers as you pull it straight out so it doesn’t move to the sides and scratch the finish.

thank you for this. been hoping someone could compare u11 to mh20.
id also like to change xpl to xpl hi, the head can be easily removed right?

Welcome. If you mean the Manker, then yeah the bezel retaining ring just threads out. If you mean the Nitecore I would imagine so but I haven’t tried. I can get back to you on that if you need me to.

More like ruined us. Nothing is close to what she can cook up

Use the code KUNGHEI to bring the price to $28.06 shipped

Helpful first post! Thanks

Could you please explain this a little more? How do you access the direct drive turbo mode? Do you have to go into programming mode by holding down the button for 10 seconds, then cycling to direct drive everytime?

Yes, the Direct drive turbo as the manufacturer calls it, is the highest level on turbo mode selection. They also have it hidden in the “Pro” mode blinky section.

If you set turbo to level one or two, then you need more light than that, you would go to the direct current turbo. If you leave the turbo program set to level 3 (highest), it is the same (in brightness and amp draw) as the “direct current” hidden turbo.

The diagrams are clear on this in the book, I am not the best explain-er here, but hope this description helps…

Manker’s UI is somewhat similar to Nitecore HC30 - i.e. short click from OFF turns on the lowest mode, 0.5s click - to the last used, BUT Nitecore has yet another option: long (>1.0s) click turns on the highest mode. This last option is what I miss on the U11, a lack of instant turbo access. Perhaps Manker will implement it the next version…

I’ve had my U11 for several weeks now but I really didn’t use it much because that angry blue cool white tint it came with. Not sure why I waited so long to fix it, but I pulled that stock mcpcb out this evening and reflowed a 219c on there. Super easy mod but it made the light so much more pleasant to use.

Current increased too. My sample read 3.72 amps at the tail with the XP-L. Just swapping to the 219c bumps that to 4.08 amps in my light. This little thing is quite a beast.

I have one left and may replace the 5D that is in there now… I replaced the 7B as I wanted it for another light… But then again the 5D has a nice halogen straw color…

It is very easy to reflow this LED, but I wish they would at least put a NW in there stock…

Is it sad that my order has not left China and I want to modify it already. Curious as to the size used to replace…20mm? Did it need to be trimmed or is it a drop in and tack sort of modification? I’ll have a month to prepare lol

Has anybody made it to the driver yet?

Same here. Did you ordered from FT? I ordered mine on CNY a month ago and now they tell me the item is not in stock.

Production not able to keep with demand I was notified by FT.

The board in there is easy enough to reflow a bare emitter on to. If you want to do a Noctigon, I think the 16mm will fit and the screws will go into the slots on the Noctigon to hold it in place. The reflector presses on to the board, so the Noctigon may have to be sanded thinner though.

A 20mm Noctigon may have to be filed down on one side to make a pass for the emitter wires… it would work as well with the same caveat that the Noctigon may be too thick…

Pilotdog68, I have not made it to the driver, it seems the switch has to be removed to get further into the light and then it should all come out easily as the interior “chassis” is threaded into the body. I like the stock driver enough that with only an emitter swap, it is good to go for me…

Yeah, like ReManG said I didn’t use a noctigon. I just reflowed a bare 219c into the factory board. Its easy to do in this light.

I’ve noticed that there are some “2016 edition U11” on ebay, etc. - do you know what has been changed? UI perhaps?