blitzwing wrote:

…Furthermore, I ran an XP-E2 red on a Noctigon with the 2.1A driver and it was no brighter than the stock red pill, that I could tell by eye.

Mmm, disappointing. Is everybody experiencing the same? blitzwing, would have been great if you could do a ceiling bounce between stock and XP-E2 to see the difference.

To get high amps you need to eliminate places where there are voltage drops which are due to resistance. The common places are protection circuits on cells, internal cell resistance, bad switches, coated steel springs, poor ground connections, poor led connections, thin dmm leads, inadequate surface to surface connections, less than optimal fet choices, any or all of these will drop voltage robbing the circuit of the potential of dropping it across the LED instead at higher current. Without seeing your set up all we can do is point to possible sources for you to check.

shrick wrote:

blitzwing wrote:

…Furthermore, I ran an XP-E2 red on a Noctigon with the 2.1A driver and it was no brighter than the stock red pill, that I could tell by eye.

Mmm, disappointing. Is everybody experiencing the same? blitzwing, would have been great if you could do a ceiling bounce between stock and XP-E2 to see the difference.

I figured it wasn’t worth persevering with after a white wall side by side test between a stock light and the modded one.

Presumably Brinyte is driving the XP-E2 pretty hard straight from the factory.

blitzwing wrote:

Presumably Brinyte is driving the XP-E2 pretty hard straight from the factory.

As far as I know they use XP-E LEDs…. If the brightness is very much the same, they’re probably using the highest binned XP-Es – P2 / P3.

Did anybody maybe measure amps at the tail for the red / green models?

I just got my B158 and I love it after putting in a MTN-17DDm driver and dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B. I am interested in doing a green led pill. I didn’t order the green version, but I have an extra pill to play with. Does anyone have an led/driver recommendation for a green setup? Alternatively, does anyone know where I could buy the stock green pill only? Thanks

metz3006 wrote:

I just got my B158 and I love it after putting in a MTN-17DDm driver and dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B. I am interested in doing a green led pill. I didn’t order the green version, but I have an extra pill to play with. Does anyone have an led/driver recommendation for a green setup? Alternatively, does anyone know where I could by the stock green pill only? Thanks

Rufusbduck, this is my setup: bare driver LD-2 soldered to XPG2 LED and 30Q all measured without host  using my DMM leads  -10A 1KV CAT III- directly (they looking pretty thick to me) Why so low Amps ?

http://postimg.org/image/hnq7477tb/

Here is a few pictures of different leds in the B158 and a couple of ring ins as I had them on me at the time. Distance to the dog house is 150 meters. Light conditions were poor with a full moon.

Firstly my C83 to show the scene.

Stock light.

XPL HI stock driver.

XPE2 Torch led 2.1 amp driver.

XPE2 Red stock driver.

XPE2 Red/Orange stock driver.

BLF D80.

ZYT08 Aluminium reflector XPL HI BLF TK DD driver.

Maybe. 

XP-L Hi seems to make a fair difference!

Thanks for the clear beamshots, Steve. Actually I like the C83 best :bigsmile: , but I do not know what flashlight that is??

blitzwing wrote:

XP-L Hi seems to make a fair difference!

with a samsung 25r

Got around 60kcd stock

130 kcd with xpl-hi + removed driver

150 kcd with xpl-hi + removed driver + spring bypass

Cheers. The old XR-E @ 2.1A is fun in this light. Very narrow beam and long throw.

When you get sent to the dog house the missus ain’t foolin’ around.

I dont know many women folk that fool around RBD. Unfortunately I'm about 5 times bigger than the dog house and with the sacked assistants trying to get in there isn't a lot of room. 

I'm sure you remember the C83 djozz as you were the second person to comment. It still brings a smile to my dial on high.

Link to C83, 

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30676

Could I put this reverse clicky switch into the B158?

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Reverse-switch-assembly-20mm-diameter/330416_32639628116.html

If not, which one?

I haven’t received the light but from what I understand it comes with a forward switch. But I’d love a reverse switch.

Does anybody know how/where to obtain XP-E2 size centering rings for the spare pills? All the spare pills I got are sized for XML size emitters, but I wanted to build them with XP-Es. I think I need the white and the black pieces.

I emailed Brinyte, but haven’t gotten a response yet.

XPE is the same as XPG, Nichia 219.
Edit – Hoop can cut you something custom if you need it but an aspheric lens doesn’t need a centering disc if the mcpcb is the right size. Just black out everything that shows.

Yep – I gotcha on the sizes.

The pill has a 19mm opening, my Noctigon MCPCB is 16 mm. I don’t have a way to accurately turn down a 20 mm MCPCB to 19 mm.

My plan is/was to use Arctic Alumina on the MPCPCB and tighten down the factory centering ring. My red light came with the centering ring appropriately sized for the XP-E led. My extra pills came with XML size centering rings that are way to big for XPE/XPG/Nichia 219 builds I planned.

I was hoping someone had a lead on factory parts b/c Gearbest and Fasttech do not have them.

I should add that I just received an email from Brinyte. It was actually their second attempt as the first email went to my junk folder.

I’d have to double check, but I’m pretty sure I used the Convoy XP-sized centering rings (for say a C8 or L2) when using an XP-L or XP-G in my B158 builds

You can get them from Mtn here, or directly from Simon (Convoy) on AliExpress

Thanks, the MTN electronics spacers worked great.

Great, glad it worked out for ya. Happy modding!

Hey everyone just got two b158’s, excellent quility! I want to get a new driver, a 17mm-mtn-ddm. Does the tail switch need to changed? I think it’s a forward clickie, it’s not like a x5 or x6 tail switch. If it doesn’t need to be changed how do you get into configuration setup i.e.: 16+ taps and mode changing. Thanks for your help!

Lund1660 wrote:

Hey everyone just got two b158’s, excellent quility! I want to get a new driver, a 17mm-mtn-ddm. Does the tail switch need to changed? I think it’s a forward clickie, it’s not like a x5 or x6 tail switch. If it doesn’t need to be changed how do you get into configuration setup i.e.: 16+ taps and mode changing. Thanks for your help!

For a forward clicky, you would get into configuration the same way, except you’d have to either hold the switch in, or fully click it in to see the config options.

If you have a spare reverse clicky tailswitch in the same size pcb, you could swap it in. I did so on mine, and while its not a perfect fit, it works.

I have a few B158B hosts on the way and will be installing my own drivers in them. Can anyone confirm the original driver size without the brass ring? I want to adjust the diameter and make new specific versions of my drivers for these hosts.

The original driver size in all the ones I had were 17mm in from memory an 18mm OD adaptor.

Aha… so originally these lights come with an adapter ring? I thought that ring was after market. I don’t know if my hosts are coming with the ring or not, but in any case I don’t want to use it if I don’t have to. So 18mm driver to avoid the ring? Do you know if it’s 18mm exactly? 17mm drivers need to be 17.5mm to fit tightly in some lights.