Flashlight Firmware Repository

Just to make sure, what is the link for the most recent working version?
I’d prefer to add that one instead of an earlier one which didn’t work. :slight_smile:

Perhaps this should be added too?

I just did a quick check, and I don’t think anything in the repository matches all of the following:

  • e-switch
  • dual PWM
  • single-click off
  • attiny13a

I see everything except tiny13 in one of Tom E’s projects, and everything except dual PWM in one of my projects, and everything except single-click off in JonnyC’s code… but nothing with all of them in one place. Unless I missed something.

That sounds like it’s definitely a hardware difference. You can measure some hardware traits using the files under ToyKeeper/battcheck/* , but that’s just one option.

One possibility is that maybe the fast_presses variable on that exact MCU happens to decay to a useless value. This would be rare, but is possible. You could try changing around the order of variable definitions to maybe align that with a different part of RAM… or try dumping out its value on boot in order to check if it’s even relevant.

Anyway, it’s hard to say for sure what the issue is.

The one in the post is the most recent version, I have it installed in the S8 in my sig line. I was going to ask though, can one of you wizards take a look at the LVP code? I’ve experienced some strange behavior that I haven’t totally found a pattern for. It’s almost like mode cycling stops working when LVP is kicking in. Like you’ll be in turbo/fet mode, lvp will step down to medium, then you can jump back up to turbo, but you can’t cycle past turbo to low. No matter how many “short presses” you do it stays in turbo until lvp starts to step it down again.

Yes, I couldn’t find a matching FW too, that’s why I was asking.

But after the changes I’m satisfied with it so far. The next time the light is opened I’m going to set the long press to about .3s as well. And delete the first mode which is off. I think pd’s solution should be the best. BTW then it is exactly the same UI that Nitecore is using e.g. in their HC30.

The only thing I’m not happy so far is that the turbo stepdown is happening in PWM-channel 1 only (where are my AMCs) and not in PWM-channel 2 (where is the FET). This has to be changed but I want to find out myself first. If I can’t do it I will ask again.

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Ok firmware wizards, I can’t remember if I have asked this before or not. I’m looking for a firmware to use in a dual-switch light. I’ll list what I’m looking for, and hopefully there’s already something close or a more advanced FW that I can dumb down or something. If it runs on a 13 that’s preferred, but I could use a 25 or 85 if need be.

- on/off by tail power switch only
—- always comes back on in last mode

- side switch changes modes
—- click forward, hold for backward

  • precise control of two pwm channels

That’s the main stuff, other nice things would be a shortcut to a certain mode by holding the side switch while applying power, or double click then hold enters a second mode group.

So what’s out there?

There’s not a lot out there for dual switch.

I think, at the moment, there may be only STAR_dual_switch (tiny13) and Tom E’s Narsil (eswBrOutCfg, tiny45/85). I haven’t gotten to try either one, but Narsil is pretty full-featured.

I keep wanting to make something, but I don’t actually have a dual-switch light and I keep putting it off. I’ve only got one test driver with an e-switch, and it’s a FET-only board.

What’s a good way to rig up an e-switch to a floating driver without making it fragile or blocking SOIC8 clip access?

Sometimes I use a Forward clicky with leads soldered to OTC pads, but usually I just take a wire, solder one end to the pad that connects to pin 2, then tap the free end to the ground ring to simulate button presses

I always thought Ferrero Rocher constantly displayed battery level with secondary led’s through that little window in the Roche F6, but I don’t see any mention of that in the .text file. Am I thinking of a different firmware? I’d really like something that can do this and use a clicky switch to control the main LED. It’s for a rather complicated project I’m working on.

edit: one more question, does baton keep it’s mode memory if power is removed? Or does that totally reset it?

I can’t help with the firmware, but that sounds very interesting…

Boy, haven't been keep'n up here. Lot more attractive drama in the GB threads Smile.

I bought off of eBay a ton (maybe 100) of e-switch's, the kind similar to those mounted in a SRK - very small, very thin. I wired up 2 wires, maybe 26 AWG, to the contacts and use this rig as my e-switch test. I usually use pin #2 so can take advantage of the OTC pad on our drivers, the other wire to a grnd point. Not the most stable and easiest think to use, because the tiny switch is floating in air, but worked out for me. Mostly I don't need a test switch because I'm attaching my driver in piggyback fashion to the stock driver, and making use of the stock driver mounted switch.

if you need this mainly for testing firmware, my absolute best setup was using Richard's SupFire M2-Z lights - cheap, simple, and use extra long LED wires so you can easy re-program. It fits a 22 mm driver -- better still, because a 22 is easier to work with as well. Just wire up the switch and use the real switch - sooo much easier, nicer setup. Mostly I tested without re-assembling the light - simply wired up a cell with alligator clips.

PD68 post #739 - Narsil won't do exactly that, but kind of sort of close. Narsil will have a turn OFF from the side switch (small parasitic drain), and it does sort of use hold for back -- well a short hold goes back one mode, keep holding and you get strobed.

It does have mode memory on the tail power switch, though it uses the brown out feature for doing this, and allows full mode switching on the tail, not just power. Mode changes made on the e-switch are not "remembered".

Thanks Tom. I’ve been meaning to install Narsil in my 7G3CS, but other projects keep taking priority. One day it will happen.

Does anyone else remember a firmware with active battery monitoring on little SMD led’s? I really thought it was written for the Roche F6.

Edit: i didn’t see anything about it in the .txt file, but now that I look at the .c file I’m convinced ferrero rocher is the one I was thinking of. Can anyone explain how the voltage monitoring works with the red and green leds? I see it has dual-pwm support, but how does that mesh? There aren’t enough mcu pins for all of it to work, are there?

PD, there is also the ATtiny13A diagram in that .c-file, right at the beginning. So there are enough pins. I think you’re confusing dual PWM with dual-channel or something?

For indication purposes maybe we could control 2 LEDs with one MCU-pin by charlieplexing. Has anyone done that before here at BLF, or thought of it at least?

Yes, Ferrero Rocher and its siblings display realtime voltage on the SMD LEDs.

No, it doesn’t actually support dual PWM. I think that was dead code inherited from an earlier project, and was never fully removed.

No, there aren’t enough pins for dual PWM and two indicator LEDs and an e-switch. After RESET, GND, VCC, and voltage sense, there are only four pins left. You could use RESET for something, but then you would need a high-voltage flashing tool to re-flash it.

No, Baton (and Ferrero Rocher) doesn’t remember the mode after the power is cut. This is really the only thing keeping it from being usable for a dual-switch light. Well, that, and it doesn’t immediately turn on when power is connected.

No, I don’t think anyone on BLF has multi-plexed multiple color LEDs onto fewer pins. However, the Noctigon Meteor does it that way.

I seem to recall that Mike C did some interesting things with using a single pin for multiple purposes. The results were somewhat vague though, and no code has been posted.

The Ferrero Rocher code only displays three levels — green, green+red, and red. The voltage boundaries for each can be configured. I’ve noticed that it tends to display more fine-grained status though, by flickering from green to green+red at a rate proportional to the voltage. Probably due to measurement noise, but it’s kind of nice so I haven’t really tried to fix it. It gives kind of a continuous blend during part of its range.

Ok, than it was me who didn’t understand what dual pwm is, sorry for that.

It seems like controlling two indicator-LEDs with one pin isn’t that hard to do, but it would require additional diodes if we wanted to controll a red and a green LED for example.

Sounds nice. It doesn’t like like RMM makes any 22mm FET+1 drivers though.

The FET+1 I’ve been using for clicky-switch development has a place to add an e-switch wire, and I’ve got a switch to hook up… the pad is awfully tiny though. I’ll have to see if I can possibly find a tiny wire and get it connected without blocking SOIC8 clip access… It’s the little copper dot next to the “3” here:

It would be easier to use the OTC pads, but then I wouldn’t have an OTC… and that might be important for a dual-switch light.

I thought I posted the details somewhere… Oh well, can post some here.

I use the E-switch, off time cap and voltage divider on the same pin.

The voltage divider resistors must be a lot higher that normally used because R2 becomes a bleed resistor for the off-time cap. I use 1300K for R1 and 300K for R2.
When the light gets turned on, the first thing to do is read the ADC for off time cap result. When that is done, start the WDT interrupt. In the WDT interrupt a voltage check is done. If the result is 0, or very close to it, the E-switch is pressed. If not, it’s a cell voltage reading.

The firmware has to work a little differently than for example Star. I haven’t looked at any other firmware so I wouldn’t know what’s been going lately. I run the WDT interupt at the highest speed so E-switch presses can be detected instantly. Consideration must be taken so the ADC readings from pressed E-switch are not interpreted as low voltage readings by the voltage monitor.

I’ve been working with this setup for a while now on a few different drivers and it’s fairly reliable. The off-time cap values can vary depending on cell voltage and heat, but so far I’ve had no issues detecting short and long off presses. However, I have had consistency issues when attempting to detect short, medium and long off presses. I can post code snips of certain parts of interest but the concept itself is very simple.

Yea, that pad is really tiny. More intended as a “star” connection for soldering to ground. I doubt there was any e-switch use in mind.

Personally, rather than force you to solder up that tiny pad, I think we should send you different driver designed for an e-switch on that pin. One with a nice tiny85 for max code room. To help support firmware development. Considering that some people are more hardware people, others just more software. What do you think? Iirc Comfy sent you the Roche F6 “Ferrero Rocher” driver. If I may ask, are you in the US? I once had the feeling you were in the UK instead, but I don’t recall anymore where it came from! :smiley: Or if you would rather not give your address to some random forum user (which I would certainly understand!), perhaps RMM would be willing to assemble and send a driver based on a board he doesn’t normally carry.