BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

I guess that could work. It would just be nice to have a triple. Better flood beam and just “cool”.

DC-Fix .

Turning throwers into throwy flooders .

PM Boaz , he'll sell you what you need .

This would be very helpful. It could be a dual purpose modding/troubleshooting thread.

The problems that occur in flashlights are pretty standard. It would be helpful to have them listed but more important is getting to know how flashlights and drivers work since that basic knowledge can be generalized to diagnose most problems.

@saypat

I like that! Does it only work with the tube reversed?

The picture you posted shows a copper KX5 — were you starting by hammering on a clip that came on the copper light?

So far, near as I can tell (not very well) it’s the clips on the aluminum KX5s that are too tightly bent; the earlier pictures of the copper light clips were consistently OK, unsquashed.

Just checking before I take out the hammer, since a followup reported breaking a clip by trying that.

Might be the clips on the copper vs. the aluminum lights are consistently differently made — too small a sample yet to know.

Ah, I forgot that the clips on the Al X5 and the Cu X5 seemed to be different. Maybe that’s why mine (from an Al X5) broke and Dale’s didn’t.

Might need to anneal it first then retemper it after to prevent breakage. Forcing it to bend otherwise would weaken it I think. Maybe a non issue, maybe not.

I wasn’t on BLF since wednesday and didn’t check this thread for 2 or 3 more days…and…841 new posts :_( .It takes longer to skim the new posts on this thread than ALL of the (potentially interesting)other threads’ recent posts!
Can I assume that anything important will be added to the OP?I see the UI is there and something about the mixed up s/n’s in the unboxed ss/cu lights.
Dale…you talk too much :bigsmile:

To add to the unimportant posts on the thread: “Origin post is preparing shipment. We have received notice…” I ordered on the 29th and it says shipped. You think it’s coming or even in the country or did I wait til to near the year of the monkey?

The no 176 of 400 arrived here on Finland. Not bad delivery time for normal registered post.

I’ll have to nitpick that my X6 has a embedded fingerprint on the copper heatsink :frowning: I guess that somebody was quite impatient and touched the part while the lacquer wasn’t completely dry. I’ll have to try my luck stripping the finish and shining it up, or just strip the finish and let it get some patina. Haven’t decided yet.

Otherwise the both lights arrived in pretty good condition. The X5 had couple small nicks and dents but nothing too bad. It also had some white residue on the battery tube but I got it mostly cleaned up.

Thanks for the organisers for delivering these awesome lights. These are absolutely my prettiest and heftiest lights :slight_smile:

Hi. Not sure what you’re asking chouster. It is the short 18350 tube that was for the Eagle Eye X6 light. Not sure if it works in both directions, I only tried it one way and it worked.

Hi saypat, normally the groove in the tube would be at the tail end, for a clip or a grip-ring…

I know I talk too much, so I’ll let the pic speak for itself…

2673.75 OTF

Custom Tellurium Cu heatsink, 32mm Noctigon, 3x XP-L V6 3D, UCLp lens, 18ga Turnigy leads.

Heat sink reflowed into the head while reflowing the Noctigon to the heatsink while re-flowing the LED’s to the Noctigon. All re-flowed together simultaneously, done deal. :wink:

From experience, we’re talking about two very different lists here.
Troubleshooting threads develop naturally here — there are a surprising number already:

http://budgetlightforum.com/search?q_as=troubleshooting

Someone who has all four kinds of lights and knows more than me, I trust, will do one.
I’d try to be helpful; I don’t have CU/SS lights nor knowledge of how we got to here.

————a thought for NEXT time, this would have to be agreed in advance—————

(I’d like to see troubleshooting by group purchasers become a firewall for the retailer — require participating first. Identify problems, identify who sees the problems, work on the problems. Once there’s enough to identify unfixable problems, those get assessed as either “live with it, it’s good enough” or “retailer should really have caught that” and handled appropriately. That would cut down on the parasitism by people who just try to get more for their money.)


I was thinking of the other sort of list, nonpublic
That’s QA/QC “punch lists” during development and production — a checklist, that everyone handling samples should update

What’s deadly is people seeing flaws, thinking “that’s not my responsibility” and not mentioning them to the rest of the crew.
Stuff slips by that way. That’s a shared (non-public) place the crew can (must) note: “hey, I noticed X, is it covered?”

That’s really two lists.
Some things QA finds can be fixed; others don’t get corrected — slop in a tool, or unpredictability in a component, or someone’s dropping copper parts into a bin, etc.
Those that QA done early can minimize get fixed.

What QA finds and can’t fix — there will always be some — is the beginning of the QC list (also nonpublic, probably people at the retailer)
“Look for X — there are a few — and pull them out of the stream.”

That’s an industrial-size approach to tracking details that easily get lost. A lot of people here know more about how to do that.
I mostly have experience with checking facts and writing errors of many different kinds, text lists of DNA sequences, for example.
(Get one base pair wrong and I could have been responsible for creating a monster).
Did you know you can define DNA sequences as words to spellcheck? Very handy …

Hardware adds a lot of handling problems. We’ll get better.

What QC isn’t reliably catching should become the (first) public list — a starting point for the troubleshooting group — that’s “Charlie Test” and the place to publish the known workarounds that the private list folks already know, and add to them.

Lather, rinse, repeat …

Has anyone yet replaced the 202 (2k) resistor in the tailcap to reduce the brightness of the tailcap led?
I am planning on tackling it assuming I can harvest the right resistor from my scrap box.

I only want to do this once so looking for suggestions as to what value to use to get just the faintest luminous type glimmer almost like a GTLS vial.
Double, triple the value???

Thanks

samsat, 11k works really nicely. I stacked 2 of the 22K I use building drivers, very low .15mA draw.

Thanks DB. Always there with quick useful answers.
You must have the vision of an eagle and the hands of a surgeon!
It’s going to be a challenge to solder just one SMD resistor in place let alone stacking 2 of them!
I’ll look at some of the PCB’s I have to see what values I can harvest.

I see I have some 103 (10k) which is close enough to your 11k.
Damn I knew I shouldn’t have had that double espresso come on hands slow down!

Calico version.