BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

My X6 had a fingerprint mark also. It rubbed right off with minimal effort and some saliva. :wink:

Tried to work on my too-narrow X5 clip to see if I could increase the depth to make it more usable, and only succeeded in breaking it right at the bend :frowning:

At least I got it off the light without leaving any marks. Probably wasn’t going to use it much if at all anyway, but you never know. So, if anyone finds a clip that fits, be sure to let all of us know.

You know, it has a thermometer built in to help with that. :slight_smile:

There wasn’t anywhere near enough room for a proper PID algorithm, but it still does okay managing the heat after the heat has had time to reach the MCU. You could also improve this by cramming in some thermal transfer foam between the MCU and the pill, to help it sense heat faster.

I tried, and failed, to open up my Al X5 clip. Not enough heat? Went too fast? I don’t know. It snapped and that’s all she wrote. :frowning:

If they can make more of the good ones I’d be willing to buy a replacement or three.

Just got mine today. This is my first real flashlight, so for those of you who’ve been jaded by your collection, you might not remember this feeling, but: OMG.

It took a couple minutes to get the hang of moving through all the modes, but it’s pretty easy now. Very nicely done, all around.

Thanks,

Dudunphy did an amazing job with the A6 thread, helping countless people with the issues they encountered. I really wasn’t expecting anyone to take on so much work for the sake of others. But this is BLF, after all, and people are pretty awesome here. :slight_smile:

There’s a small issue with requiring people to post on BLF before they can get help from the retailer. It requires people to have an account. It adds another layer of inconvenience when it’s already too difficult to get good support.

As for the QA ideas, it sounds great. But first there needs to be actual formal QA, and before that there needs to be direct communication with no translators in the middle. That would likely solve most issues. :slight_smile:

“You could also improve this by cramming in some thermal transfer foam between the MCU and the pill, to help it sense heat faster.” — TK

Have you had success with this on an MTG too? I have a light where the center is very yellow, and my two I just received also have this problem, yellow center surrounded by blue.

I think that’s pretty standard for MTG2 in a smooth reflector

my tracking number said my lights were delivered feb 3rd, and i thought they had been stolen, but they came today, the 5th, and i have ss# 225.
they are very nice and i am NOT going to test them, or ever open them or do anything but let them sit there in their box #225 .
i will be open to offers for the set, by PM and i will be busy a lot and will not be checking messages regularly. i ordered NW.

OK, interesting, I havent had this happen except on an MTG light.

I am a bit disappointed in the tint on the two sets I just received just since I wanted WW and got a blue-y ringed beam due to a focus issue, I’ve got to figure how to resolve looks like. However I do like this tint more than any other CW I’ve had, even blue tinged its generally a nice white, not sure I’d call it NW, is it possible the bin is off?

Tint aside, absolutely beautiful lights, beautifully functioning driver, beautiful amount of light too! My wife has already complained about the tailcap glow though, how am I going to keep this next to my bed? :confused:

Just get those WW tint selections next time and a warmer NW purdy please :slight_smile:

I have a yellow hotspot with blue spill on pretty much every reflector-based light I’ve ever used. Side effect of the “Cree rainbow”. Usually the entire hotspot is yellow though, instead of just part of it. The XP-L HI certainly improves overall beam consistency, but it seems to make the color contrast a bit more noticeable sometimes.

Swap the resistor for something larger. Dale posted a few days ago that he stacked a couple in his for 11K total resistance and had good results. Just this afternoon I pulled the resistor out of mine and swapped in a 12K. Its great, in my opinion. Very dim but still easily seen.

I put in a 10K and it's less bright, but maybe not low enough for my nightstand. Might try a 15K-18K. I did this on a NW Ss/Cu X6, and also tweaked it up:

  • TK's latest (Jan 16) firmware upgrade
  • centered the LED
  • replaced the 24 AWG wires with shortest possible 22 AWG
  • 22 AWG wire bypass in driver spring
  • pulled out the inside spring in the tail and put in a 22 AWG bypass
  • all retainer ring/PCB contacts coated with NO-OX-ID,
  • all threaded body connections w/o-rings (3) treated w/Nyogel

Results are impressive:

  • the time to hold the button for reverse is much shorter, much improved
  • beam pattern looks improved, bout perfect to me (I love this 3B tint btw)
  • tail amps: 5.74A on a clamp meter
  • lumens: 1540 @start, 1472 @30 secs -- this is for the 3B NW tint Smile

how much is a boxed set worth ss# 225

Depends on what someone is willing to pay for it. About 400 people paid 96 bucks so I think its probably worth that.

They’ve used 24 AWG wires? :~

Yes, but not your typical 150C wire, it was what we normally use - 200C rated. 24 AWG is pretty heavy for a stock light.