You know, it has a thermometer built in to help with that. 
There wasn’t anywhere near enough room for a proper PID algorithm, but it still does okay managing the heat after the heat has had time to reach the MCU. You could also improve this by cramming in some thermal transfer foam between the MCU and the pill, to help it sense heat faster.
I tried, and failed, to open up my Al X5 clip. Not enough heat? Went too fast? I don’t know. It snapped and that’s all she wrote. 
If they can make more of the good ones I’d be willing to buy a replacement or three.
Just got mine today. This is my first real flashlight, so for those of you who’ve been jaded by your collection, you might not remember this feeling, but: OMG.
It took a couple minutes to get the hang of moving through all the modes, but it’s pretty easy now. Very nicely done, all around.
Thanks,
Dudunphy did an amazing job with the A6 thread, helping countless people with the issues they encountered. I really wasn’t expecting anyone to take on so much work for the sake of others. But this is BLF, after all, and people are pretty awesome here.
There’s a small issue with requiring people to post on BLF before they can get help from the retailer. It requires people to have an account. It adds another layer of inconvenience when it’s already too difficult to get good support.
As for the QA ideas, it sounds great. But first there needs to be actual formal QA, and before that there needs to be direct communication with no translators in the middle. That would likely solve most issues.
“You could also improve this by cramming in some thermal transfer foam between the MCU and the pill, to help it sense heat faster.” — TK
Have you had success with this on an MTG too? I have a light where the center is very yellow, and my two I just received also have this problem, yellow center surrounded by blue.
I think that’s pretty standard for MTG2 in a smooth reflector
my tracking number said my lights were delivered feb 3rd, and i thought they had been stolen, but they came today, the 5th, and i have ss# 225.
they are very nice and i am NOT going to test them, or ever open them or do anything but let them sit there in their box #225 .
i will be open to offers for the set, by PM and i will be busy a lot and will not be checking messages regularly. i ordered NW.
OK, interesting, I havent had this happen except on an MTG light.
I am a bit disappointed in the tint on the two sets I just received just since I wanted WW and got a blue-y ringed beam due to a focus issue, I’ve got to figure how to resolve looks like. However I do like this tint more than any other CW I’ve had, even blue tinged its generally a nice white, not sure I’d call it NW, is it possible the bin is off?
Tint aside, absolutely beautiful lights, beautifully functioning driver, beautiful amount of light too! My wife has already complained about the tailcap glow though, how am I going to keep this next to my bed? 
Just get those WW tint selections next time and a warmer NW purdy please
I have a yellow hotspot with blue spill on pretty much every reflector-based light I’ve ever used. Side effect of the “Cree rainbow”. Usually the entire hotspot is yellow though, instead of just part of it. The XP-L HI certainly improves overall beam consistency, but it seems to make the color contrast a bit more noticeable sometimes.
Swap the resistor for something larger. Dale posted a few days ago that he stacked a couple in his for 11K total resistance and had good results. Just this afternoon I pulled the resistor out of mine and swapped in a 12K. Its great, in my opinion. Very dim but still easily seen.
I put in a 10K and it's less bright, but maybe not low enough for my nightstand. Might try a 15K-18K. I did this on a NW Ss/Cu X6, and also tweaked it up:
Results are impressive:
how much is a boxed set worth ss# 225
Depends on what someone is willing to pay for it. About 400 people paid 96 bucks so I think its probably worth that.
They’ve used 24 AWG wires? :~
Yes, but not your typical 150C wire, it was what we normally use - 200C rated. 24 AWG is pretty heavy for a stock light.
I’d like to do this too, but don’t know what to buy, especially since they are SMD. What size resistor fits, and what specs do I need ? Also, any idea on the LED size that is used in case I want to add a second one to even out the color? Thanks.
I remember reading that yours were stolen and felt so badly. Really happy that a mistake was made and you received them. Couldn’t imagine selling mine but that’s just me.
My lights have finally arrived and wow, wow, I could not be any more thrilled, these are just beautiful.
A whole lot heavier than I had imagined, S/N: 121
The magnet fasteners on the box lid is a very nice touch.
I am wondering though, with the aluminum set I am able to back the tail switch off maybe 1/10th turn back and the lighted cap will turn off, with these SS/Cu the instant the switch spring touches the negative of the battery the tail light comes on and it won’t turn off at all like the aluminum, that is both the X6 & X5,
I have to completely remove the batteries to turn of the tail light, Sure does look nice and if they don’t go off ever that’s fine with me frankly, just wondering though…
I imagine maybe someone has already seen this and if so can I please have the post # and see what the fix is, or maybe an idea or two?
Thank you TK your UI is absolutely awesome and thank you to everyone else that worked so hard, I don’t think these can ever be out done, the machining is so beautiful, wow. Thank you so much
Edit: Was reading up at #5416 about wife and tail cap light, are these actually meant to be on all the time?
I was thinking I would be able to back it off some like my alum’s and it would turn off…?
Or is that wrong and the alums should stay on all the time also?