BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

OK, interesting, I havent had this happen except on an MTG light.

I am a bit disappointed in the tint on the two sets I just received just since I wanted WW and got a blue-y ringed beam due to a focus issue, I’ve got to figure how to resolve looks like. However I do like this tint more than any other CW I’ve had, even blue tinged its generally a nice white, not sure I’d call it NW, is it possible the bin is off?

Tint aside, absolutely beautiful lights, beautifully functioning driver, beautiful amount of light too! My wife has already complained about the tailcap glow though, how am I going to keep this next to my bed? :confused:

Just get those WW tint selections next time and a warmer NW purdy please :slight_smile:

I have a yellow hotspot with blue spill on pretty much every reflector-based light I’ve ever used. Side effect of the “Cree rainbow”. Usually the entire hotspot is yellow though, instead of just part of it. The XP-L HI certainly improves overall beam consistency, but it seems to make the color contrast a bit more noticeable sometimes.

Swap the resistor for something larger. Dale posted a few days ago that he stacked a couple in his for 11K total resistance and had good results. Just this afternoon I pulled the resistor out of mine and swapped in a 12K. Its great, in my opinion. Very dim but still easily seen.

I put in a 10K and it's less bright, but maybe not low enough for my nightstand. Might try a 15K-18K. I did this on a NW Ss/Cu X6, and also tweaked it up:

  • TK's latest (Jan 16) firmware upgrade
  • centered the LED
  • replaced the 24 AWG wires with shortest possible 22 AWG
  • 22 AWG wire bypass in driver spring
  • pulled out the inside spring in the tail and put in a 22 AWG bypass
  • all retainer ring/PCB contacts coated with NO-OX-ID,
  • all threaded body connections w/o-rings (3) treated w/Nyogel

Results are impressive:

  • the time to hold the button for reverse is much shorter, much improved
  • beam pattern looks improved, bout perfect to me (I love this 3B tint btw)
  • tail amps: 5.74A on a clamp meter
  • lumens: 1540 @start, 1472 @30 secs -- this is for the 3B NW tint Smile

how much is a boxed set worth ss# 225

Depends on what someone is willing to pay for it. About 400 people paid 96 bucks so I think its probably worth that.

They’ve used 24 AWG wires? :~

Yes, but not your typical 150C wire, it was what we normally use - 200C rated. 24 AWG is pretty heavy for a stock light.

I’d like to do this too, but don’t know what to buy, especially since they are SMD. What size resistor fits, and what specs do I need ? Also, any idea on the LED size that is used in case I want to add a second one to even out the color? Thanks.

I remember reading that yours were stolen and felt so badly. Really happy that a mistake was made and you received them. Couldn’t imagine selling mine but that’s just me.

My lights have finally arrived and wow, wow, I could not be any more thrilled, these are just beautiful.
A whole lot heavier than I had imagined, S/N: 121
The magnet fasteners on the box lid is a very nice touch.
I am wondering though, with the aluminum set I am able to back the tail switch off maybe 1/10th turn back and the lighted cap will turn off, with these SS/Cu the instant the switch spring touches the negative of the battery the tail light comes on and it won’t turn off at all like the aluminum, that is both the X6 & X5,
I have to completely remove the batteries to turn of the tail light, Sure does look nice and if they don’t go off ever that’s fine with me frankly, just wondering though…
I imagine maybe someone has already seen this and if so can I please have the post # and see what the fix is, or maybe an idea or two?
Thank you TK your UI is absolutely awesome and thank you to everyone else that worked so hard, I don’t think these can ever be out done, the machining is so beautiful, wow. Thank you so much

Edit: Was reading up at #5416 about wife and tail cap light, are these actually meant to be on all the time?
I was thinking I would be able to back it off some like my alum’s and it would turn off…?
Or is that wrong and the alums should stay on all the time also?

Well, ok, if you say so. I never use anything smaller than 22 AWG except for wiring up e-switches or such. I mean, sure it’s a stock light, but one that comes with a FET-driver… But then, 24 AWG seems to work fine for well over 1000 lights purchased in this GB…

The aluminium set turns off when you loosen the tail cap because the threads are anodized, that isn’t an option on the stainless and copper so to turn off the tail cap light you have to remove the battery.

This is how I’m keeping my set, ready to go at any time. :slight_smile:

Thanks Joat, that explains it, I love that light so it’s sure no issue, what a beautiful set for sure. Thanks for the answer

Pilotdog68 designed an oshpark board with a switch inside the spring. It should swap in and add this ability.

Pilotdog68 designed an oshpark board with a switch inside the spring. It should swap in and add this ability.
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So, this new switch will still have the LED , and it will function like the one on the aluminum light, a twist will turn off the light? Are these available now? Anyone know? Link please? Or contact Pilotdog68? Thanks.

No, a twist won’t turn it off. However, you can take the tailcap off and flip a tiny switch inside to disable the lighted tail.

There are also other ideas being developed.

The switch fits on the spring pad and only enables/disables the tail cap LEDs. It’s not in production and only an oshpark DIY board. You could probably find someone willing to put one together for you though.

My lights were stuck there from 1/30/2016 - 2/3/2016. I didn’t receive any notification until 2/4 and then it was delivered. Its the Blackhole of the USPS. Prepare to wait a few days. Have patience.