I just put together my L2 tonight. Actually this is my second one, and it’s the first version, single cell. I have two the same. The first one I put a XP-L HI in there with a FET driver, and the second I did tonight is running a dedomed XP-G2 with 12 7135s. Haven’t tested at the tail yet, but should be pulling over 4.5 amps. Also changed out the forward clickie for a reverse style. The dedomed XP-G variant throws like none other, but has a bad case of the rings. I tried moving the reflector up and down but it doesn’t really help. As it is there is no centering ring, it’s just sitting on the noctigon. I used black sharpie on the inside of the led hole but this didn’t seem to do anything to the beam. Any thoughts on how to minimize these rings? I think enlarging the hole would help but I don’t really want to do this unless I really have to.
So my L2 is finally functional, but I’d like some advice. The plan was to go with an XHP50 for a big, broad beam instead of making it a “dedicated” thrower. I thought I’d sand the dome like discussed in this thread to remove the donut hole/crosshair pattern, but it didn’t go well for me. Immediately after powering it on, the reflector started filling up with some white smoke. I quickly cut the power. The emitter’s dome had started turning black in a few spots, clearly burning itself up like others experienced in the sanding thread. So just to see if I could salvage it, I pulled the emitter out and shaved the dome. Success! It still works fine, no obvious damage.
Obviously now I’ve got an even tighter hotspot (not exactly what I wanted) and the donut hole. Okay 
I may swap a different emitter into this host eventually but for now I want to figure out how to go forward with this build.
So how do I get rid of the donut hole? Is there a good OP reflector that’ll drop in here? Should I spray the reflector with something (has to be 100% reversible)? How about frosting the lens? Any other great ideas?
You could try parchment paper on the lens. DC fix is suggested frequently.
Or try to spray the reflector with hairspray to get a light orange peel effect.
Try shimming the reflector up by adding a few washers below it. It might take 2 or 3 to minimize the donut. I suggest this as well as changing the reflector to OP. Even when you defocus the led a bit, the beam gets pretty ugly on a SMO reflector. Orange peels hides a ton of things, but it won’t fix your donut unless you mess with the focus of the led.
Got the 2s version yesterday, i ordered V2 1A for evaluation with the default driver : hornestly its kinda disapointing torch, it starts at 110k mcds but it drops fast ( in just 5 seconds ) to 75k: yet the tailcap current reading remained 3.1 amps, is it the driver that is causing this or just the Al MCPCB?
Yes when modded its great: with the AR glass and a dedomed V6 1A ( running at 6 amps) it reached 270k mcds, yet by default its nothing special- and most ppl will just buy the torch as it is i presume
I just realized the newer L2 will include AR lenses. Will Simon sell the AR lens by itself? I have two L2 from the early batches with normal lenses.
Hey Mitko. If you’re comparing the stock L2 to a custom built L2 it would certainly fall short. Simon doesn’t tend to push things too hard with his stock drivers… yet. I’m working on that. Calling the stock L2 a “disappointing torch” sounds like either a bit of a harsh judgment… or you got a dud… or you are spoiled by custom built torches like so many of us here are. There were a few issues just before and during CNY that are being corrected so considering the timing it’s not impossible for you to have a defect. I don’t have equipment to test mine but my new 2-cell version L2 performs similar to my first single-cell L2 but with a tighter hotspot and a bit less overall lumen output in the spill. I attribute this to my first being a domed 1A and my second being a 3A XPL-HI. The quick drop sounds odd though. The mcpcb is aluminum? I intended for it to be copper but with so many projects being worked on at that time it’s possible I forgot to communicate that one to Simon. If so it can be corrected before the next run.
I will say that at least for now, the L2 is definitely going to be significantly more impressive when custom built by someone with the skills to build their own with a better driver. Both of my stock L2s are impressive IMHO. I have some nice custom builds but not an L2. Sometime in the near future I’m going to have to remedy that. Mod potential was high priority for the L2.
Yes. The AR lenses will be sold separately for those with the first version that want to upgrade. No word on when yet but I’d guess probably in the next month. I will post it here when I know they are available.
Sounds good, hopefully the L6 will be available soon after that.
That’s great! I want some of those.
Hey mate what mods did you do? i feel the same way it is okay but not great i need to mod this?
J-Dub74
The problem m8 is that a Convoy C8 XLP HI based with a 105c 2.8 amps driver gives like 70-75k mcds too: exacly like the L2, and i am kinda surpriced why it starts like it should and then rapidly rolls back down with 35-40%: its the driver`s fault btw, at first i was thinking its the Al MCPCB
Dont get me wrong, i got 5 first wave L2s and half a dozen second wave L2 hosts( for now), its a great host and we needed those yet the ready to go light has those issues- as i said before many ppl wont mod it
U3 0D/U4 1A if you can find it(U3 2A if you hunt or like warmer tints after dedoming with a purple tint) /V6 1A on a Noctigon and a 20mm FET DD driver + Efest 4200 Purple : and you are good to go: voila 260-270k mcds. And stay brave, that host could carry tons of heat .
Would be great to have OP reflectors for L2 though
Waiting on mine for 5 weeks now. Aspheric conversion to follow. 
Interesting. Maybe the LD29 has an issue the LD25 doesn’t? Not that it matters all that much to the modding community but for those without those skills, it does. I’d be curious to see if anyone else is seeing the same drop after the initial burst. My first and second run L2 both smoke all my C8s including some hotrod custom builds so I’m wondering if you have a driver issue that is specific to your L2 or if more people are seeing the same. This is the first I’ve heard that reported. Without doubt the L2 is just begging for some modding but I still don’t like hearing stock disappointment. I am working with Simon on some better drivers for the next generation of Convoy lights but it’s going to be a while. The move to the new factory during CNY resulted in a bit of unexpected chaos. That’s why he kept the store closed for a few extra days. Simon is putting a few things in motion to increase QC and pave the way for progress. He’s in a new factory now so I’m expecting a little pause while he gets the new machine running smoothly. Great things to come though.
I don’t know all the details but from what I understand it was pretty much just overall chaos. Convoy moved their entire operation to a (bigger) factory right at the start of CNY. Simon is bringing on new people and expanding his operation during the most chaotic time of year in China. I know of at least one big order shipped during the rush that didn’t get Simon’s normal attention to detail and had a few banged up hosts and a few missing parts. When Simon saw what was happening he put on the brakes to make sure any issues were addressed and fix anything that needs fixing. I’ve been directly involved with a big company move like this before and it’s not fun. No matter how hard you try to make everything work smoothly during the transition there are always going to be a few unforeseen issues. Simon stands behind his product though so any issues will be made right.
I think I understand where you’re coming from now. I’m not sure there’s a simple answer here. I don’t know of any mechanical issues with the new L2 though Mitko’s finding sounds odd. On his it sounds like there’s a noticeable drop in output after the light is on for several seconds. That is the first I’ve heard of that. I don’t notice anything like that on either of mine but then again I don’t have any testing equipment and it sounds like he does. So unless you notice something like he is referring to, yes the light is fine without being modded. Here’s the big BUT… If I had the knowledge and equipment to mod lights, yes I would mod the L2. The stock light is nowhere near it’s potential in the hands of a knowledgeable builder. A Noctigon & FET DD would absolutely be beneficial. The light has a lot of aluminum to absorb heat so it can take a lot more power that it’s stock form gives. I’d push it right up into the 5A range if I could. The L2 does impress me in its stock form but the mod potential is huge. Did I answer your question?
I don’t know if it’s because of all the hype or something but I was expecting a bit more. My reflector is not completely clean, nor is the glass. It also flashes when cycling to low. I thought it would be like the SR52UT since the reflector is about the same size but the SR52UT still has a bit tighter hotspot and is noticeable more intense. Yea I know the SR52UT is driven harder but still.
I think the greatest gripe I have is with the placement of the reflector. It’s sitting way to high with respect to the led. If the led emits light in 135 degree and the reflector is sitting about 3 mm above the led, part of the light is not being collected by the reflector and is just hitting the wall of the host.
I don’t have any measuring equipment but to my eye I’d say the Convoy hotspot is about 60-70% as intense as the SR52UT.
I think the light is just ok. Would have been interesting to see the GID centering ring, would that throw a beam at close range.
Well you are comparing a $120 light to a $50 light but there’s no excuse for a dirty reflector or a dirty lens. I know Simon had trouble with some of the reflectors. My L2’s both have very tight hotspots. When did you order this one? I’m assuming you’re talking about the complete light, not the host right?
If you lose the extension tube and find a 17mm to 20mm adapter that fits, yes.
I do have to agree, the stock config is a little underwhelming. But, the design is solid and if you upgrade the MCPCB and driver it’s great.