Olight Javelot M2X-UT Review *Pic Heavy* ---===11/19/14 Updates===--- Dual Power Supply Capability

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DB Custom
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Stock, the Javelot is the better thrower pretty solidly. That’s considering my Triton was the older XM-L version.

I tried bumping power on the Triton a bit more and , uh, well, lets just say that the newer XM-L2’s don’t like 8A.

DB Custom
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I went through some old de-domed XM-L2 emitters and checked forward voltage in direct drive off a Sanyo lap pull. Found one that was sitting at 3.49Vf in full direct drive. Bingo!
So I put that one on the star, dug through my stuff and found the big, thick copper star that came out of a TK61…cut that to fit snugly into the pill under the aluminum star. So it’s got some backup, as it were. I pulled one of the 2 R056 resistors I’d stacked, left the R025 on. At the emitter, with a pair of Sanyo lap pulls in semi charged state, it showed 6.65A on the clamp meter. I grabbed a pair of Efest 35A and topped em off in the charger, tail amperage shows 3.65A from these! .19A in low, which is in line with what low did at the emitter on the Sanyo’s, .39A.

Does this mean I’m seeing about 7A now? Still only makes 1221 lumens and the lux actually has dropped to 186.5Kcd.

So, pushing this Triton for all it’s worth on the stock driver it still doesn’t stack up against the Javelot with a piggybacked BLF FET driver. Crazy, huh?

DB Custom
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Silly Not very often.

This one is no exception. I discovered that the thick Aluminum star in the Triton is not Direct Thermal Path, hence the big drops in lumens during run tests. So, I improvised. I removed the de-domed older XM-L2, put it on a 20mm Noctigon but with copper pedestals under it to raise it up for better focus ability. Then I bored out the center of the big aluminum star for a press fit of the 20mm Noctigon into it. This keeps the Thermal Management and puts about 3.5mm of copper under the emitter.

I now have 1397.25 lumens at start, 1235.1 at 30 seconds, with 197.75Kcd and 889.38M throw. Whew! What a lot of work for the little gain, but now I know it’s the best it can be. With 7A from the stock driver and the light still functioning as normal, it’s time to leave this one alone. Wink

I think the little brother, the M2X-UT Javelot, still outdoes it…which is very impressive indeed!

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Thats dedication!

Chris

Mitko
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DBCstm

What do you think, how far can be default Lavelot driver pushed? Cause LD1 modded Y3 beats it( U3-2a emitter, from IOS) , and with 4200ma Keeppower battery it ever outruns it
Still havent recieved the extender tube though…

Compared to Sniper M24, they are virtualy the same, ofc M24 is heavier…now Amanda sended me the second edition one, but it will come who knows when

DB Custom
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I stacked R056 resistors on top of each R100 and got 3.56A. I didn’t want to blow it, so that’s as far as I went before pulling the stock driver and going with the BLF FET version.

shrick
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Thanks for the Great review Dale. I’m currently looking at the TrustFire X9 in the same form factor, to save some money. Maybe any other recommendations for a good value for money ‘Javelot M2X Clone’?

clemence
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DB, I had no luck at all, I could only open the driver's thread. Unlike your picture, my M2XS seems to have red loctite on it, not blue like yours. Judging by the smells it is definitely a threadlocker. Killed two baby boa. Heated the bezel with hot air gun to a bit more than 100C (water droplets vaporize instantly). I stopped because there's an o-ring inside (I saw from your picture) I made two pair of round clamps from wood and clamp the bezel to a vise while turned the smaller head using another smaller vise. Because the smaller head has vertical grooves, it's very slippery and requires high clamping force. I stopped because I think I already put too much clamping force to the bezel and I don't want to break the glass, the aluminum bezel is too thin. I need to know if the thread at the bezel is clockwise or anti clockwise before I continue to try again. It seems Olight really protective about this one =( Many thanks, Clemence
DB Custom
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Clockwise, and yes the bezel is very thin on these. They gave it the largest possible reflector/lens diameter which of course has the potential to cause us issues if modifying.

I have put the parts in a baggie and boiled them before, but it sure makes it difficult to handle when trying to disassemble.

Good Luck! Wink

Overclocker
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these are the shunt resistors, right?

this flashlight runs too cool, need to overclock Smile

Mitko
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There is a new M2x Javelot revision btw, the XLP got a new full cover pad, the tint is already 4500k( not like the first XLP HI versions) and the tail amps are 3.4 by default and 170-176k cds( tested all 5)

Now thats a realy good XPG2 host :bigsmile:

Got 5 of those, all are the same- the head isnt glued too, will try swapping the emitter`s wires plus a spring bypass

DB Custom
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When my Dad see’s one like that he’s amazed at the sheer intensity of light coming from that comparatively tiny little yellow dot down in the bottom of the reflector. “All that light is coming from THAT?” Smile

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I just got my second M2X-UT from ***. Tested it right off the box. It didn’t throw as far as my first one!!! The hot spot was bigger and elongated to one side. I heard that some people also experienced lower performance from the new M2X-UT using XP-L HI emitter
The tint is better, more like “normal” cool white, not the greenish warm tint.
When I went back to my house and checked what’s wrong with the flashlight I found these:







I guess this is the cause of some new M2X-UT sold. It’s not the emitter but the misalignment of the emitter relative to the reflector. My new M2X-UT plastic center alignment hole piece is circular not square. I suspect I got the batch from the transition period from XM-L2 to XP-L HI. Flat Stare Flat Stare

Mitko
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Quote:
I suspect I got the batch from the transition period from XM-L2 to XP-L HI. Stare Stare

Yes m8, unfortunately you got exacly this: there was a XPL version of M2X that wasnt that good but i thought its gone months ago

clemence
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What is this? Can you explain? :-/

Guys, I had trouble opening my first M2X-UT several months ago. I asked Dale about it but I sold it before I open it. Then I bought two additional M2X-UT again from Stanley. The first one was a total failure from an enthusiast point of view. The report was up there. I asked Stanley about it and he told me he would ask Olight if the unit could be replaced. I got no answer ever since, I assumed that Olight never responded his question. I also send two emails directly to to company itself, no answer…. I don’t blame Stanley for this because it’s Olight’s responsibility to replace defective product via the distributor. If the factory doesn’t do it then it’s a dead end. Then I left the defective one in my stashbox until today. I was so curious about it.

Here’s my findings:

To my surprise the bezel wasn’t glued at all. Came off easily with a twist of my hands.
- I checked the current at the tail cap, with fresh 3400mA 18650 battery the current maxed in 2,11 A
- As I mentioned before the plastic piece is not centering the emitter. Now I found that the emitter also soldered off center.
- The MCPCB is totally different with what Dale posted. Fortunately it is still a direct thermal path one (tested the continuity with my multitester)
- I SUSPECT that this is not an XP-L HI emitter due to it’s greenish colour and convex silicone lens coating. The dome also asymmetric, thicker at one side. I think Olight was experimenting. They dedomed the emitter then dropped a (too much) silicone coating to make colour shifting less pronounced or to protect the emitter in the long run. I remember my first M2X-UT emitter’s bare die was oxidized (scroll up several threads up for the picture). And they were keep experimenting. My last M2X-UT was the best in every aspect with dedomed XP-L (was it HI or HD, I don’t know) and a very thin protective coating (it’s shiny viewed from the side). And the tint now also cool white without green taste on it.

Perhaps they did it to keep up with the boom of XP-L HI implementations by many manufacturers. They were the first to use custom dedomed XP-L, now everyone can have it with less effort. By keep dedoming, they get the slight edge of the competition. Enjoy the pictures:

-X3-
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I just checked mine, from Amazon.fr.
The PCB is not like yours and I confirm that my XP-L HI is flat, not convex at all

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My knowledge in electronics are poor. I think putting two resistors R100 ( parallel) on the top of the two R050, the result will be similar to adding a single R056 . I am right? Will I burn the driver of my M2X if I use a single R100?

I have changed the finish of this light and i would like to get more throw.

Thank you.

DB Custom
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I use this Parallel Resistor Calculator to figure out final resistance and help me make an educated choice on sense resistor mods…

Those that are in the know can figure out the actual output through doing the math, but I always forget the formula’s.

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Thank you!

I finally used two R100 in parallel.
4,04A at the tail with a 30Q and 190.000 Cd.

DB Custom
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Nice neat job of it you did, well done! Fun, isn’t it? Seeing a nice light become a fantastic light…. Big Smile

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i have the mx3s and man do i love this light. it throws a perfect beam a ridiculoualy long way. build is very nice. weight amd balance good. its my 2nd most expensive light and worth every penny

light addict....yeah I've got the bug.

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wstrachan
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i have the mx3s and man do i love this light. it throws a perfect beam a ridiculoualy long way. build is very nice. weight amd balance good. its my 2nd most expensive light and worth every penny

light addict....yeah I've got the bug.

Atrolux MF02_O2S
Imalent DT70
Emissar (All Models)
Lumintop ODL20C
Wuben A21 & T70
thrunite tn32 ut
acebeam k60
many, many others...

Litpreme
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First of thank you DB Custom for the super detailed review. The m2x performances really is incredible; let alone the fact it comes factory dedomed! I have the earliest variant with the XM-L2 led; the throw is truly amazing. It never gets old seeing that over half mile beam cutting through the night sky. I’ve even been able to bust some lower level clouds with its beam!

-X3-
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Litpreme wrote:
First of thank you DB Custom for the super detailed review. The m2x performances really is incredible; let alone the fact it comes factory dedomed! I have the earliest variant with the XM-L2 led; the throw is truly amazing. It never gets old seeing that over half mile beam cutting through the night sky. I’ve even been able to bust some lower level clouds with its beam!

Try a white flat 1mm² in it and you’ll know what THROW really is !

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X3 wrote:

Try a white flat 1mm² in it and you’ll know what THROW really is !

Stock driver or you replaced it?
I presume stock is ok at about 4 – 4.5A

 

CREEXHP70LED
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Sirius9 wrote:
X3 wrote:
Try a white flat 1mm² in it and you’ll know what THROW really is !
Stock driver or you replaced it? I presume stock is ok at about 4 – 4.5A

Can I put a flat white in my M3XS-UT?

 

 

 

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CREEXHP70LED wrote:

Can I put a flat white in my M3XS-UT?


Yes.

 

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What would the throw be with the Flat White in the M3XS-UT approximately? And the lumens. Can I just unsolder the LED and put a flat white on it?

I used a Osram projector bulb about 15 years ago, with a Maglight reflector and a battery pack out of $1200 Speedglass welding hood. I didn’t know anything about Li-ions at the time, but during the third charge the pack started venting and I ran down stairs with it and threw it in the garage. I think I was draining 4 or 6 18650 cells in about 2-3 minutes during use. It looked like a freaking freight train. I had a D cell maglight reflector zip tied to a ball cap and the battery pack in my backpack. I hit the on button and someone on a back country road came from behind us and once he got in front of my brother in law and I, I looked at the truck. I was not thinking I just blinded this guy. But once I did , he stopped, I kept smoking him. Then I guess he decided several thousand lumens in his face was not worth getting out of the truck. He drove off slowly. The next battery charge was exciting. The one that violently vented.

 

 

 

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CREEXHP70LED wrote:
What would the throw be with the Flat White in the M3XS-UT approximately? And the lumens. Can I just unsolder the LED and put a flat white on it?

Throw. Not sure, never done it.
Lumens. Just guessing, about 800-900 !
Yes, you can unsolder XPL and put another led but original olight mcpcb is thicker chunk of copper and needs time to heat up + centering it (led) properly might be a bit challenging.

 

-X3-
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Okay, here are my numbers:
M2X with bypassed sense resistor and 1mm² White Flat : 4,5A, 359kCd
M3X with stock driver and Black Flat : 5A, 542kCd

The Black Flat can’t be put in the M2X because the head is electrically connected with battery minus pole

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